997 2005-2012 911 C2, C2S, C4, C4S, GTS, Targa and Cabriolet Model Discussion.

Sway bars - rookie question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Rate Thread
 
  #1  
Old 02-01-2009, 02:28 PM
Verde's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: CA Bay Area, US
Posts: 1,574
Rep Power: 99
Verde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond repute
Sway bars - rookie question

So I had a set of H&R bars installed in my car. I should have purchased the GMG set btw in that I didn't realize that the H&R's had fewer adjustments. The set for the 997S has NO adjustments in the front end, and three in the rear. Lesson learned. Bummer.
Notwithstanding all that, I'd like to understand how to change the (rear) setting. It's clear/simple that it is bolted in to the drop links. But is it under pressure? Does the bar have to have the equivalent of spring compressor on it before I remove the bolt(s)? And which hole in the bar is 'firmer'? I assume it is the hole closer to the bar rather than further. Right?
Enquiring minds want to know...
Thanks,
Verde
P.S. Separately, for those who are in to fine handling as a high priority of the P-car experience, please please consider swapping the OEM coilovers for the Damptronics (if you have PASM). No, I have not tried Motons or others (though no others preserve the PASM, right?). But the improvement is so dramatic, it's like night and day. Almost a new car. It's a bit rougher, but hardly so. I am not a dealer, tuner, or an employee of Bilstein or GMG, so this is all uncompensated and unsolicited. But if you're on the fence, just go for it. If you're not, then get on the fence. And then go for it.
 
  #2  
Old 02-01-2009, 02:35 PM
GT3 Chuck's Avatar
Administrator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: California
Posts: 14,891
Rep Power: 1002
GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !
yes, closer to the bar is firmer and farther is softer...if you are concerned about the sway bar pre-load you can get adjustable drop links that eliminate it...however, even the stock GT-3's have sway pre load...
 
  #3  
Old 02-02-2009, 09:17 AM
Verde's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: CA Bay Area, US
Posts: 1,574
Rep Power: 99
Verde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond repute
Nmi

Thanks but I'm afraid that I'm looking for even more rookie information (though the 'which hole' answer really does help). I jack up the car, loosen the sway bar bolt and what happens? Is it under a great deal of pressure (pre-load)? Do I have to compress/bend the bar to get it aligned with the more aggressive hole? Do I just use a big clamp or some such thing to bend it?
Sorry for being a dolt here. Just don't want to get 1/2 done and not be able to put it back together.
(But, per another thread, I DO have three torque wrenches!)

Originally Posted by VSE Chuck
yes, closer to the bar is firmer and farther is softer...if you are concerned about the sway bar pre-load you can get adjustable drop links that eliminate it...however, even the stock GT-3's have sway pre load...
 
  #4  
Old 02-02-2009, 09:18 AM
Verde's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: CA Bay Area, US
Posts: 1,574
Rep Power: 99
Verde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond repute
Oh, and speaking of torque wrenches, what is the torque setting for the bolt??
Thanks,
Verde
Originally Posted by VSE Chuck
yes, closer to the bar is firmer and farther is softer...if you are concerned about the sway bar pre-load you can get adjustable drop links that eliminate it...however, even the stock GT-3's have sway pre load...
 
  #5  
Old 02-02-2009, 10:19 AM
ryans4's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: San Francisco CA
Posts: 181
Rep Power: 27
ryans4 is a glorious beacon of lightryans4 is a glorious beacon of lightryans4 is a glorious beacon of lightryans4 is a glorious beacon of lightryans4 is a glorious beacon of light
The swaybar is really only under a lot of "bend" when you are moving the wheels independently. So if you jacked up the right side only, the swaybar would be under pressure/bend. with both wheels off the ground, or with the car on the ground, the sway bar is fairly static.

As mentioned, the point of adjustable drop-links is to take swaybar preload out when the car is at rest so your alignment/corner balance is not affected by the swaybar preload. The reason the swaybar gets preloaded is you have varying corner heights to get a proper corner balance, so based on that, you get some load on the sway bar.

But if you get under the car as mentioned above, you can remove the drop link from the bar without much drama. It may require some man-handling to move the connection, but it's not like a coil-spring that is compressed, the sway bar won't snap back and take your arm off.

Adjust at will. With 2 holes in the rear you get 3 settings, outer/outer + outer/inner + inner/inner, as mentioned, closer to the end is softer.
 
  #6  
Old 02-02-2009, 10:19 AM
GT3 Chuck's Avatar
Administrator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: California
Posts: 14,891
Rep Power: 1002
GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !GT3 Chuck Is a GOD !
if you stiffen the rear you will increase oversteer (less understeer)...you will have to apply some pressure on the bar to preload...as for torque setting..just get it tight...I replaced all my swaylink nuts with nylocks because the stock nuts will eventually work loose...this is a definite check it every once in a while item as many are loose from the factory...if you turn the wheel to opposite lock you can reach in behind the tire and check the nut for tightness on the fronts..the rears are easy to check...
 

Last edited by GT3 Chuck; 02-02-2009 at 10:24 AM.
  #7  
Old 02-02-2009, 10:51 AM
Verde's Avatar
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: CA Bay Area, US
Posts: 1,574
Rep Power: 99
Verde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond reputeVerde has a reputation beyond repute
Very helpful. I've got the drop-links on the list. Just not yet.
Many thanks.

Originally Posted by VSE Chuck
if you stiffen the rear you will increase oversteer (less understeer)...you will have to apply some pressure on the bar to preload...as for torque setting..just get it tight...I replaced all my swaylink nuts with nylocks because the stock nuts will eventually work loose...this is a definite check it every once in a while item as many are loose from the factory...if you turn the wheel to opposite lock you can reach in behind the tire and check the nut for tightness on the fronts..the rears are easy to check...
 
  #8  
Old 02-02-2009, 01:22 PM
996toomey's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 206
Rep Power: 28
996toomey is infamous around these parts
I just had my rear bar adjusted. I don't have the proper equipment at home to do the job.

I watched the tech do it. The bar is not loaded like a spring so do not worry about that. The tech did not remove the rear wheels. The tech did have to unbolt droplinks in order to rotate bar so sway bar bolts would clear the Damptronics.

The torque setting for the bolts on sway bar are torque to 37 FT Lbs loosen 90 degrees then torque to 48 FT Llbs. The torque settings for the caps that hold bar to car are 17 FT Lbs.

If you are just street driving your car the middle setting is probably fine and will help car rotate around corners. If you are running high speed corners or tracks you may want to go full soft in rear (hole at the end of bar).
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
eclip5e
Automobiles For Sale
8
04-28-2022 12:38 AM
LiquidElephant
Automobiles For Sale
3
08-27-2015 06:17 PM



You have already rated this thread Rating: Thread Rating: 0 votes,  average.

Quick Reply: Sway bars - rookie question



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:31 PM.