How often are you track guys changing the brake fluid?
#16
02-03-2009, 05:57 AM
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#17
02-03-2009, 07:33 AM
Guys, you all need to read up on brake fluid a bit. It's not the number of events you put on fresh fluid, it's a time issue. Most PCA chapters will not tech approve you unless the fluid is 2months old or newer. Read up on Wet vs. Dry boiling points. Basically, brake fluid takes on moisture over time - not so much use (though hard use will accelerate the issue). So the boiling point of the fluid declines over time (wet BP). When fluid is new, it's all pretty good and up to the test. Never use Blue, always use ATE 200 / Gold and even better would be Motul Those are all suseptible to getting "wet" and losing boiling point.
#19
02-03-2009, 09:14 AM
BTW, did you sell the GT3 yet?
#21
02-03-2009, 09:40 AM
#22
02-03-2009, 09:56 AM
Like RonCT's says. SRF once a season for me too. Zero fade with PF01 pads.
I run stockers with PF rotors and I place temp stickers on the calipers and even after a hard session everything is always in range. Can't be happier on the stopping of my car. I almost pulled the trigger on a Brembo BBK and I haven't been able to outbrake my car yet to warrant the change.
I guess what I am saying is if you put in high-end consumables into your braking system you will have great results for long periods of time.
I run stockers with PF rotors and I place temp stickers on the calipers and even after a hard session everything is always in range. Can't be happier on the stopping of my car. I almost pulled the trigger on a Brembo BBK and I haven't been able to outbrake my car yet to warrant the change.
I guess what I am saying is if you put in high-end consumables into your braking system you will have great results for long periods of time.
#23
02-03-2009, 10:05 AM
Like RonCT's says. SRF once a season for me too. Zero fade with PF01 pads.
I run stockers with PF rotors and I place temp stickers on the calipers and even after a hard session everything is always in range. Can't be happier on the stopping of my car. I almost pulled the trigger on a Brembo BBK and I haven't been able to outbrake my car yet to warrant the change.
I guess what I am saying is if you put in high-end consumables into your braking system you will have great results for long periods of time.
I run stockers with PF rotors and I place temp stickers on the calipers and even after a hard session everything is always in range. Can't be happier on the stopping of my car. I almost pulled the trigger on a Brembo BBK and I haven't been able to outbrake my car yet to warrant the change.
I guess what I am saying is if you put in high-end consumables into your braking system you will have great results for long periods of time.
#24
05-23-2009, 10:33 PM
bringing this discussion back to life
van, ron, can you confirm castrol SRF is compatable with the 997? i've been told a few times it is not but i don't believe it.
also, while it should not be mixed with other fluids, a good flush should take care of that, correct?
i'm suffering from a soft pedal using OEM fluid...tx
also, while it should not be mixed with other fluids, a good flush should take care of that, correct?
i'm suffering from a soft pedal using OEM fluid...tx
#25
05-24-2009, 03:56 AM
Compatible with the 997? Brake fluid is universal, it either works or doesn't work, it's not model specific. It does not mix with other fluids as it will become contaminated and lose it's "magic properties". So complete flush to get rid of the old. I just did my 2 cars - the 09 C2S and the 05 Boxster S and it took 2.5 liters total, so I have 1/2 liter left. $71 a liter at OG when you buy 2 bottles, which is advisable for the 1st time.
#26
05-24-2009, 07:00 AM
Just completed my first flush/bleed and have a question for you guys that have done this a bunch. Are you also bleeding the clutch each time or is this only when flushing the system?
Instructions on renntech.org describe bleeding clutch with pedal wedged in down position. Is the purpose of that step to eliminate every last drop of old fluid? My mechanic was concerned about blowing seals.
Instructions on renntech.org describe bleeding clutch with pedal wedged in down position. Is the purpose of that step to eliminate every last drop of old fluid? My mechanic was concerned about blowing seals.
#27
05-24-2009, 07:45 AM
You will have to bleed the clutch when you change your brake fluid. I bleed the clutch in the same fashion I bleed brakes. Two man job, one on the pedals and one bleeding the fluid. Nice slow down strokes in a quiet place for communication between the two.
If you do a lot of events and plan on changing your fluid every two months then I would have your mechanic look into making a nice and easy clutch bleed line that you can get to through the rear deck.
If you do a lot of events and plan on changing your fluid every two months then I would have your mechanic look into making a nice and easy clutch bleed line that you can get to through the rear deck.
#28
05-24-2009, 08:47 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Fort Lauderdale
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With ceramics I have the Champion flush my fluid after 4 hours of track time when they tech the car for the next event.
#29
05-24-2009, 11:51 AM
Compatible with the 997? Brake fluid is universal, it either works or doesn't work, it's not model specific. It does not mix with other fluids as it will become contaminated and lose it's "magic properties". So complete flush to get rid of the old. I just did my 2 cars - the 09 C2S and the 05 Boxster S and it took 2.5 liters total, so I have 1/2 liter left. $71 a liter at OG when you buy 2 bottles, which is advisable for the 1st time.
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