Orbital buffer
#16
03-08-2009, 07:40 AM
Flex has more cutting power than a PC. Do you really need that though? Look at what I was able to do on REALLY nasty black paint with just a PC. A Flex may have done the job in less time, as others have suggested.
I'd buy a Flex if you think you're going to need more cutting power, or if you don't have the patience to use a PC. But I'd get a lesson from a Pro Detailer first- it CAN burn paint, whereas the PC cannot.
CATTMAN
I'd buy a Flex if you think you're going to need more cutting power, or if you don't have the patience to use a PC. But I'd get a lesson from a Pro Detailer first- it CAN burn paint, whereas the PC cannot.
CATTMAN
#17
03-08-2009, 09:44 AM
My new black 997.2 arrives in two weeks. Not having used a Orbital Buffer or anything like that.....will I notice a difference in the shine over Hand Waxing on a new car. Or are these machines for taking a tired finish up to show calibre?
#18
03-08-2009, 09:50 AM
faster and better. Does not need to be beat up. Are they worth the cost? Only if you enjoy doing this. If not --pay a detailer. I consider it R and R and use it to help friends with minor annoyances, too.
#20
03-08-2009, 10:08 AM
I found it, here is a link for anyone else that had never heard of it. http://www.flexpolisher.com/
#21
03-08-2009, 10:10 AM
#22
03-08-2009, 10:57 AM
Not to change the subject, somewhat, but I've never understood the benefit of any buffer when waxing a Porsche.
I've used random orbital buffers back from my boating days--waxing the sides and bottom of a 22' ski boat is a lot of surface area and marine wax really dried hard.
In contrast, I use Zaino on my Porsche and other cars and it goes on and comes off so easily, I don't see that a buffer is much help at all, especially when you still have to hand work where the buffer doesn't reach.
I've used random orbital buffers back from my boating days--waxing the sides and bottom of a 22' ski boat is a lot of surface area and marine wax really dried hard.
In contrast, I use Zaino on my Porsche and other cars and it goes on and comes off so easily, I don't see that a buffer is much help at all, especially when you still have to hand work where the buffer doesn't reach.
#23
03-08-2009, 11:55 AM
Definition time:
Compounding and polishing are steps taken to address maring in the paint. Light swirls, heavy swirls, and light scratches can all be removed (or lessened) by using compounds or polishes of varying aggressiveness (cut). The process actually abrades away a micro-thin layer of your clear-coat, which is why you must use caution, and not do it too often. Clear coat is very thin- about the thickness of the celephone over a pack of cigarettes.
Waxing is the process of applying a natural (carnauba) or synthetic (zaino, etc.) layer of protection over your clear coat. It is not abrassive, and will do little to nothing in terms of hiding or removing the swirls or scratches.
Compounds and polishes are best applied with a machine, either a PC, Flex, or Rotary depending on the paint situation you are attempting to correct.
Waxing or sealing, on the other hand, is best done by hand- the machines providing no benefit whatsoever.
Machines are useful because they can spin faster than your hand can, and as a result build up a bit of heat to get the products to do their work. You don't need the speed or heat to apply a wax or a sealant, so do it by hand. You do need speed and heat for most compounds/ polishes, so a machine is a useful tool.
Waxing and polishing/ compounding are VERY different. Waxing applies a layer of protection. Polishing or compounding abrades away the surface.
Make sense? The whole thing, detailing, can become a wormhole that you can easily get sucked down. It's got to be a hobby or else it'll drive you bonkers.
CATTMAN
Compounding and polishing are steps taken to address maring in the paint. Light swirls, heavy swirls, and light scratches can all be removed (or lessened) by using compounds or polishes of varying aggressiveness (cut). The process actually abrades away a micro-thin layer of your clear-coat, which is why you must use caution, and not do it too often. Clear coat is very thin- about the thickness of the celephone over a pack of cigarettes.
Waxing is the process of applying a natural (carnauba) or synthetic (zaino, etc.) layer of protection over your clear coat. It is not abrassive, and will do little to nothing in terms of hiding or removing the swirls or scratches.
Compounds and polishes are best applied with a machine, either a PC, Flex, or Rotary depending on the paint situation you are attempting to correct.
Waxing or sealing, on the other hand, is best done by hand- the machines providing no benefit whatsoever.
Machines are useful because they can spin faster than your hand can, and as a result build up a bit of heat to get the products to do their work. You don't need the speed or heat to apply a wax or a sealant, so do it by hand. You do need speed and heat for most compounds/ polishes, so a machine is a useful tool.
Waxing and polishing/ compounding are VERY different. Waxing applies a layer of protection. Polishing or compounding abrades away the surface.
Make sense? The whole thing, detailing, can become a wormhole that you can easily get sucked down. It's got to be a hobby or else it'll drive you bonkers.
CATTMAN
#24
03-08-2009, 12:02 PM
Definition time:
Compounding and polishing are steps taken to address maring in the paint. Light swirls, heavy swirls, and light scratches can all be removed (or lessened) by using compounds or polishes of varying aggressiveness (cut). The process actually abrades away a micro-thin layer of your clear-coat, which is why you must use caution, and not do it too often. Clear coat is very thin- about the thickness of the celephone over a pack of cigarettes.
Waxing is the process of applying a natural (carnauba) or synthetic (zaino, etc.) layer of protection over your clear coat. It is not abrassive, and will do little to nothing in terms of hiding or removing the swirls or scratches.
Compounds and polishes are best applied with a machine, either a PC, Flex, or Rotary depending on the paint situation you are attempting to correct.
Waxing or sealing, on the other hand, is best done by hand- the machines providing no benefit whatsoever.
Machines are useful because they can spin faster than your hand can, and as a result build up a bit of heat to get the products to do their work. You don't need the speed or heat to apply a wax or a sealant, so do it by hand. You do need speed and heat for most compounds/ polishes, so a machine is a useful tool.
Waxing and polishing/ compounding are VERY different. Waxing applies a layer of protection. Polishing or compounding abrades away the surface.
Make sense? The whole thing, detailing, can become a wormhole that you can easily get sucked down. It's got to be a hobby or else it'll drive you bonkers.
CATTMAN
Compounding and polishing are steps taken to address maring in the paint. Light swirls, heavy swirls, and light scratches can all be removed (or lessened) by using compounds or polishes of varying aggressiveness (cut). The process actually abrades away a micro-thin layer of your clear-coat, which is why you must use caution, and not do it too often. Clear coat is very thin- about the thickness of the celephone over a pack of cigarettes.
Waxing is the process of applying a natural (carnauba) or synthetic (zaino, etc.) layer of protection over your clear coat. It is not abrassive, and will do little to nothing in terms of hiding or removing the swirls or scratches.
Compounds and polishes are best applied with a machine, either a PC, Flex, or Rotary depending on the paint situation you are attempting to correct.
Waxing or sealing, on the other hand, is best done by hand- the machines providing no benefit whatsoever.
Machines are useful because they can spin faster than your hand can, and as a result build up a bit of heat to get the products to do their work. You don't need the speed or heat to apply a wax or a sealant, so do it by hand. You do need speed and heat for most compounds/ polishes, so a machine is a useful tool.
Waxing and polishing/ compounding are VERY different. Waxing applies a layer of protection. Polishing or compounding abrades away the surface.
Make sense? The whole thing, detailing, can become a wormhole that you can easily get sucked down. It's got to be a hobby or else it'll drive you bonkers.
CATTMAN
Since my car will be new. I would assume over the next year that if I take care of it . A wax will be all I need . I love spending time handwaxing......its my form of relaxation or "gardening"....very therapeutic
From Cattman:
#26
03-08-2009, 12:55 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,461
Rep Power: 110 
I currently have a PC, but have heard from many (as some have stated in this thread) that the PC take s much more time to get the results you want. I am considering switching to a Flex since many people swear by it's ease of use and time saving capability (I can be impatient at times 
)
)
#27
03-08-2009, 01:23 PM
Thank you very much, You really gave a great summary of the differences. Since my car will be new. I would assume over the next year that if I take care of it . A wax will be all I need . I love spending time handwaxing......its my form of relaxation or "gardening"....very therapeutic
Since my car will be new. I would assume over the next year that if I take care of it . A wax will be all I need . I love spending time handwaxing......its my form of relaxation or "gardening"....very therapeuticOne more thing to keep in mind: depending on the aggressiveness of the product and technique you use, compounding/ polishing may leave your car looking hazy. This just means you have to do a follow-up process with a less aggressive routine. Following again with a glaze, then a wax or sealant for maximum gloss.
My routine was:
-Menzerna Super Intensive Polish with PC and orange pad
-Menzerna Final Polish with PC and white pad
-Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze with PC and black pad
-Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket with PC and gold pad
-P21S 100% Carnauba by hand
CATTMAN
#29
03-08-2009, 06:08 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Connecticut
Age: 53
Posts: 459
Rep Power: 35
If you use the right pads and products (i.e. not too abrasive) and use your head, you'll be hard pressed to damage the paint with a good random orbital buffer. It is a rotary polisher that can do serious damage in the wrong hands. I have a Porter Cable, though have heard Griots and Ultimate Detailing Machine are good too.
PS - Coastal Tools in West Hartford, CT has the best prices on the Porter Cable that I have seen (with the added bonus of being local to me, though they do ship)
PS - Coastal Tools in West Hartford, CT has the best prices on the Porter Cable that I have seen (with the added bonus of being local to me, though they do ship)
#30
03-08-2009, 06:14 PM
I'm new to this forum, I have a 2009 997 C4S on order, Atlas Grey, Carrera S wheels. Hoping to see it sometime in May.
I bought a Griot a few years ago and it was, in fact, a Porter Cable.
I bought a Griot a few years ago and it was, in fact, a Porter Cable.