They are for me - sticky enough to move the weak link to my street-friendly shocks, springs and bushings and change how I balance the car through corners. Before, everything started to give up at about the same time - now ... not so much

 

Wow excellent thread. Very informative - I had exact same question about camber plate vs. lower control arms.

I don't know whether I read it in this thread, or another link from it, but someone did report getting front camber in the minus 2 range, USING Tarett camber plate alone IIRC. In other words, the camber plate could do the same job a lower control arm could - except of course you now no longer have original top plate (?), spring hat (??), etc., with its associated rubber gasket (??), and therefore your suspension might be stiffer?
Has anyone asked Tarett directly about this - how much more camber do you gain with camber plate alone? It seems like a simpler solution?
Let me email Tarett - now I am very curious!

 

Since Tarrett sells both I'm sure it'll be an interesting conversation and Ira is a straight shooter. Part of the question will be wheel/tire combo and whether to pull in the top (plate) or push out the bottom (LCAs). Likewise if you want to give up compliance for performance (monoball vs. rubber hats). I went LCAs because I track my street car rather than the reverse, and with a cab if I tighten up everything else then I just start flexing the body so ...

 

With my PASAM equipped 997 C2S lowered an additional 15mm with Damptronics I was able to get -2.5 in the front. A friend recently installed Tarret camber plates only on his stock PASM 997 2S and I believe he was able to get -1.8 in front.

Edit: I also had Tarret camber plates

 

-2.5 w/out LCAs/plates is pretty amazing. Dropping the height (within reason) normally nets you max of about -.25 max in static camber beyond the stock max of -1.3 in 997.1 cars (need to pull out way old high school math for exact arc changes )

However you get there, you'll like the extra camber up front...

 

I need to correct my post above. I also had Tarret camber plates. Sorry for the confusion.

 

Question please Alan:

1. Does the camber plate make the suspension feel any stiffer than stock?
I ask because it *looks* like it's all metallic, whereas stock top plate *looks* like it has rubber gasket?

2. I imagine installation was time consuming (costly?)? You have to take down the strut/coilover assembly?
Thank you.

 

Cannaga,

I didn't notice any change in stiffness do to the camber plates. I had the Tarret camber plates and their drop links installed along with Bilstein Damptronics at the same time so it would be hard to separate the plates. It makes for a good street/track compromise.

You will most likely have to remove the struts to put the camber plates on your car. It might be possible to compress the spring and not remove the strut but I wouldn't want to try it.

Count on 2-3 hours for the struts plus an alignment.

 

Joys of multiple changes. All things being equal the monoball plates will transmit more NVH than the OEM. At normal speed you wouldn't likely notice more stiffness, just more noise. As you move up to racing speeds that would change.

 

I did 300 miles yesterday with the newly installed RSS Tarmac LCA's (and H&R sways), most of it spirited driving in mountain twisties, plus some city miles. I didn't feel any difference in feedback/road feel/harshness or noise from the new arms. I agree that will probably be different case on the track. They are set to -1.8 camber in front. My indy tuner didn't want to go past that for fear of popping the front axle.

On the other hand, the sways are definitely noticeable in a great way. The car doesn't lean like it used to, especially under long sweepers and S-turns and generally feels more dialed in.

Two more notes:

1. Again, the RS-29's are really LOUD! And being in Manhattan, it doesn't go unnoticed by others. Thankfully, I was a safe distance from the Occupy Wall Street protesters or I could have ended up with a new coat of raw egg on my T4S . I'll definitely be swapping back to street pads after the upcoming track event.

2. Towards the end of the day, I started feeling a thumping/rumbling from the front of the car. Soon afterwards, the ABS failure, PSM failure and CEL came on. Had it hoisted on a lift nearby and nothing seems out of place, but the lights and thumping are still there . Based on some searching around the forums, seems like its likely a faulty steering sensor or one that needs to be reset since the alignment and arms were changed. I wonder though if it will re-occur since the alignment is now out of spec. I'm kind of bummed bc now I have to choose between going to the nearby P-car dealer who misdiagnosed the last CEL I had (said it was my cats when it was really a bad MAF) and driving 1 hr back to the tuner. And then there's the real concern -- that the problem re-appears just before the track event in two weeks, which would really stink, since of course I'm not going near a track without ABS and PSM.

Anyway, will keep y'all posted and appreciate any advice. Also wanted to give heads up to others considering these changes that, at the least, you gotta make sure you reset the steering sensor when you do a suspension mod.

 

Hmm .. congratulations and bummer dude? Don't know about others but no reset was required when my LCAs went in. I have seen systems failures and limp mode when people put new rubber with the same OD on 997s - particularly bad with C4 because of the center diff. Best of luck getting things sorted.

 

After my suspensions changes, see signature, I had no sensor issues.

 

I posed my questions to Ira of Tarett, regarding +/- of camber plate versus GT3 control arm to increasae front camber. Followed is the answer, straight from the master - note that it's in context of using these components in my car, a 997 Turbo.

>>>>>>>>>>>
The camber plates will get you about 1.1 deg extra negative camber, while the GT3 control arms can get you up to about 2 deg. more. The main problem with the arms on a turbo car is that as you add shims, the axles get displaced in the CV joints and can fail. You can probably safely add about 5mm, but 10mm or more is very risky. You can use the camber plates together with the GT3 control arms to help reverse the effect. They will increase axle engagement. I also have a supplier that has just finished up a design for some CV spacers to increase axle engagement on cars with more than 5mm of shims. The camber plates will increase steering response with only a very small increase in road noise. They replace the OEM plate, but you will retain the OEM bearing and hat.

 

Hi there i have 2012 Cayman R need for it front lower control arms.. How much will be the price?

Dak