I have an 09 C4s coupe PDK and I want to know which are the best slotted discs for track days and where to get them?

thanks

 

The only slotted rotors that I have found are Brembo, or Giro Disc. They run about 1600 per axle and IMO may not be any better then the OEM drilled rotors, except for unsprung weight (as they are two piece).

I ran 18000 miles including 20 track days on my first set of front rotors, I really doubt for the money you will be able to beat OEM.

 

Geesh, how do you get that life out of front rotors? Maybe our tracks are different, Sebring is my home track, but I get around 8-10 days out of a set of fronts. Right now I am at 5 days and already have cracks.

Sebring does have some threshold braking parts.

 

Maybe I am not as aggressive as you on the track!

I did use two sets of OEM pads on those rotors. I think the track milage was about 3500 miles, the rest street use (about 40% of the miles by the previous owner).

I am running Pagid Yellows now, will see what kind of life I get out of these rotors.

 

I typically get 1 year out of a set of front rotors and 2 out of the rears. Each year of use includes about 10k total miles with maybe 1/2 of those being related to track (going to, driving on, returning home). So, maybe a dozen DE days (Black / Red) with several of those being "enduro" style (ie: Cups & Saucers with about 6 hours on track in 2 days). Pads are Yellow 29s, PFC 97s, Sport Pads (4-2-1 / stock GT3 pads).

I pretty much came to the same conclusion - that OEM rotors were just fine as they are extremely cost effective and while I love the idea of saving the weight, I just can't justify the huge price differential.

 

Speaking of which, does anyone know of any DIY resources (videos or walk-thrus) for changing the rotors on the 997?


thanks.

 

Courtesy of Vivid Racing

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...tors-home.html

 

Thanks! So you don't have to use a torque wrench for the phillips screws that hold the rotor on? I was kind of surprised to see that. I would have thought there would be some measure of that.

 

I use my air gun and it is set around 50lb/ft. The rotor is not held in place with the little screw so much as it is by the 5 wheel bolts torqued to 96lb/ft.

 

Good point.

 

Interesting thread- Is there a noticeable benefit to changing OEM's for aftermarket discs on these cars? On my past bimmers, I've always upgraded to Brembo cross drilled discs + better pads + steel braided lines to get rid of the fade and mush associated with the stock disc setup. I've tried slotted a couple of times but hated the "swishy" noise they tend to make- didn't notice any difference with the slotted design over cross drilled other than noise.

 

The advantage of the slotted over the cross drilled is that the cross drilled tend to crack quickly, and can be dangerous if the cracks get too big. Slotted are also said to keep the pads free of glazing.

I run the OEM Cross Drilled Rotors with Pagid Yellow's on the track, and OEM pads on the street, as well as Steel Braided lines and haven't had one issue with my brakes at all. I am no expert on BMW brakes, but no manufacturer makes a better OEM system then Porsche.

 

Thanks for the info- so the choice of using slotted vs drilled would be a purely safety-driven issue it seems. Good to know. BMW factory brakes tend to heat fade rather quickly, so any measure of aggressive driving always required an upgrade to drilled or slotted rotors + better pads. In contrast I've never experienced a single issue with the pcar factory brake setup, it just rocks .

 

NorthVan,
Are you swapping out "track rotors" for "street rotors" when you swap out the RS29s for the OEM pads? (Or just swapping out the pads?)

 

Just pads, rotors would be a lot of work