I finally got these in from Suncoast

- PDK Shift Trim in Full Leather
- PDK **** & E-Brake in Silver

...and found some invaluable install instructions over at MACarbon.com - http://www.macarbon.com/install_guid...structions.pdf

That guide was a must, although I had to wing the last bit with the e-brake.

A few other details not in the guide for anyone interested in doing this:

1 - Follow that guide - very good tips there - make sure you have the tools they show. A set of those trim tools is worth having for jobs like this. TAPE is a must - use more than they show - when in doubt, tape it up for protection. All the screws are different sizes - label them as suggested - be organized.

2 - The e-brake takes a 13mm (I think) socket and an extension helps on the passengers side and a low profile wrench/socket for the drivers side - very tight quarters.

3 - I didn't disconnect the battery - good thing if you have power seats and PDK since it is handy to be able to move the seats and the shifter.

4 - The shifter is easier to remove and replace in drive - there's more room to grab and turn the locking collar at the base; the entire base turns, not just the collar.

5 - The shift trim is also easier to remove/replace in drive.

6 - If you have iPod in the console, you have to take out the 3 screws in the tray (instructions show 4), then lift out the iPod tray insert - that reveals the 4th screw.

7 - It is necessary to unplug the connectors from the iPod tray insert - there are two; a 90degree plug with a coax cable and a multi-plug - both have release "levers" and unplug easily. The 90 slides sideways to come off, and the multi-plug pulls straight out. Now these connectors can go through the hole in the console when you lift it out to gain access to the e-brake.

8 - The e-brake has 1 plug near the front that needs to come out - small lever on the side to release it. There's also a clip that holds the iPod wiring to the side of the e-brake - no need to cut the tie-wrap, just pull the clip down off the bottom of the e-brake.

9 - There is a hole in the e-brake assembly - on the new unit, you'll see a 90-degree angled rod going into it from the top keeping back the rear mechanism of the brake where the cables connect. It is good to get something similar, release the e-brake, and then pull back on the cable connector and put that rod (I used a large nail - very large) into the hole to hold the spring back - this makes removing the cables easier.

10 - There are four bolts holding down the e-brake - they will give way with some force, so you need a good socket wrench that can get into that space. Passenger's side is easy with an extension. Driver's side front has to have the brake handle pulled up as far as you can. Driver's side rear has to have the brake handle released and the front seat forward so you can move the ratchet.

11 - The e-brake has two clips on the back area that create threaded holes for 2 of the 4 console tray screws that you removed. The new e-brake will not have these, so you need to transfer them over to the new e-brake.

That's it - just put it all back in reverse order with the new parts and you are good to go. Took about 3 hours to do - but I was not rushing and don't do things like this often. Skill level - maybe a 2.

Thanks to Ric at Suncoast for the parts and MACarbon for the most excellent installation guide.

Results:

Before (dealer photo) and a few afters...

 

Looks great!

 

Many thanks for the instruction set! Very nice results! In removing the shifter, does the locking collar snap in place? How much force is needed to unlock the one you removed?

 

The old shifter came off easily - you can test it out, just rotate the collar to the left (looking down from the top). Pulling it up and off requires some effort - and be careful that when it gives way, you don't hit the NAV screen or even the mirror!

The new shifter was harder to lock on, but once I put it in drive was pretty easy.

One caveat - this morning I noticed the airbag light on the dash was on. Not sure why or what I may have done to cause this - unless I inadvertently pushed some wire loose under the radio when replacing the console or trim. The passenger "Airbag" indicator on the center console still operates correctly...hmm...and there was only one set of center console wiring to unplug/plug in and I tested all those function before I put it back together. Actually, now that I think about it, it was on when I was moving the seat and shifter before I put things back together and at the time, I just figured it was bummed out that I removed that console wiring harness plug. Maybe it just needs a reset (maybe that's why they suggest disconnecting the battery in the MACarbon guide).

I had to take it into the shop today for a MF Wheel upgrade and Voice module anyway - I told them what I did with the e-brake and I reckon they'll find out what brought about the airbag light when they replace the Wheel. We'll see....

 

Many thanks for the info! Now it's time to go save my pennies. I want to perform the same mods plus swap the center console for one in leather. Looks like a Christmas present coming after I pay off my daughter's wedding and buy my wife a new washer/dryer!

 

Thanks for taking the time to write out the little tips. Those probably saved me a good 1/2 to 1 hour. Sometimes things might seem obvious after the fact but while you are in the midst, it can really throw off a project. I put in the aluminum e-brake trim and also install the Porsche SSK. Everything turned out great! The SSK is awesome!

Again, Thanks for contributing and putting this DIY in here. This should really be in the DIY section, the currently one in the section has pictures that have all been removed so it is not very helpful.