Made mistake of test driving 997 C2S... help...
#16
Base 08 for appx. $60K ask - http://www.princetonporsche.com/preo...TOKEN=79849617
Indeed, $12K is large bump but not so much so to dismiss the possibility for the reasons stated. And again, my situation was trade+cash. Convenience of not having to do a PP sale and the tax benefit made it worth going the dealer route. I think a PP 06 C2S CPO out to 2012 could probably be had for low $50’s but that’s now a 2-owner car, probably w/some miles on her (not a big deal in terms of going past warranty but more overall condition.) But to my point, you'll have to be patient and willing to hunt.
Indeed, $12K is large bump but not so much so to dismiss the possibility for the reasons stated. And again, my situation was trade+cash. Convenience of not having to do a PP sale and the tax benefit made it worth going the dealer route. I think a PP 06 C2S CPO out to 2012 could probably be had for low $50’s but that’s now a 2-owner car, probably w/some miles on her (not a big deal in terms of going past warranty but more overall condition.) But to my point, you'll have to be patient and willing to hunt.
#17
Good one. They have had some really reasonable prices. I know you got a PDE car, I think these are also Porsche factory demo cars. THey sell them really cheap, but the history warrants the prices. THere is even an '08 under $60k! Such a deal.
He might have better luck in Texas. In our neighborhood an '06 S with CPO is going to be tough to find in the low $50ks, as you suggest. Even at Princeton, they have an '06 non S with an aero kit and it's mid $50k.
He might have better luck in Texas. In our neighborhood an '06 S with CPO is going to be tough to find in the low $50ks, as you suggest. Even at Princeton, they have an '06 non S with an aero kit and it's mid $50k.
#18
dont underestimate C2S performance. it beat the C6 in EVERY performance category in edmunds head to head test. video link below
http://www.edmunds.com/apps/vdpconta...e/model=911#19
http://www.edmunds.com/apps/vdpconta...e/model=911#19
#19
Thanks for the input, guys... seems like a great forum here.
Here's the car I drove and am still thinking about more than I should:
http://hendrick-porsche.ebizautos.co...px?iid=4388027
It sounds like the general advice is to err on the side of the S, and also to take some time and look around. Maybe 50k is a bit too demanding for these cars and to do it right, I have to jump up a bit. I see a lot listed on autotrader with equal or fewer miles to the one in the link above going from 49 to 55k, which is why I thought the one in the above link was overpriced. I am thinking of making an offer on the one in that link, though... it's a CPO and was nearly flawless.
Still wary of taking one of these things to the 100k mile mark; it seems like everybody drives them to 20-30k and sells them! We'll see...
Thanks.
Here's the car I drove and am still thinking about more than I should:
http://hendrick-porsche.ebizautos.co...px?iid=4388027
It sounds like the general advice is to err on the side of the S, and also to take some time and look around. Maybe 50k is a bit too demanding for these cars and to do it right, I have to jump up a bit. I see a lot listed on autotrader with equal or fewer miles to the one in the link above going from 49 to 55k, which is why I thought the one in the above link was overpriced. I am thinking of making an offer on the one in that link, though... it's a CPO and was nearly flawless.
Still wary of taking one of these things to the 100k mile mark; it seems like everybody drives them to 20-30k and sells them! We'll see...
Thanks.
#20
Nice looking. Yeah, you will probably need to get into the low to mid $50k's.
Note that the car does not have sport chrono. I would think 10 times before getting a car without it. Be sure you drive an S with the sport chrono and use the sport button. I only drive with the button on. YOU will definitely want it.
Note that the car does not have sport chrono. I would think 10 times before getting a car without it. Be sure you drive an S with the sport chrono and use the sport button. I only drive with the button on. YOU will definitely want it.
#21
There ya go. An unbiased opinion from Rye on the arctic silver :-)
Seriously, agree w/you on it being overpriced. My guess is they're probably aware of that too. So your offer should be low $50's (and only b/c of that CPO). Offers over the internet/phone are not as real as an offer in person. My experience is that they don’t move (experience buying my M3 and Z06). My guess is that to a dealer its the equivalent of a feeler or price discovery. IMO, better if you’re in front of the sales rep discussing price. Your sig indicates you're in TX and that dealer is in NC. Kind of a hike. I would think that there would be cars close by in TX (and I know nothing within TX is exactly close by) to look at before venturing out of state. Go to the dealerships. Test drive some that are in your range. If they are not what you're looking for. Explain that to the salesrep. Tell him what you are looking for and the price you are willing to pay. You're not giving anything away - it will always be your call to buy or walk. If they run into something, they may call you (saving you the trouble). It's easier for them to make a directed sales call to someone who wants to close than deal w/a tire kicker at the dealership.
Also, in case you’re not already doing this, check all the forums. There are a lot of cars out there not listed on the commercial sites. Some even have tasteful non-warranty invalidating mods that you would’ve made once you purchased. It’s a economical way of getting a turn-key modded Carrera.
Seriously, agree w/you on it being overpriced. My guess is they're probably aware of that too. So your offer should be low $50's (and only b/c of that CPO). Offers over the internet/phone are not as real as an offer in person. My experience is that they don’t move (experience buying my M3 and Z06). My guess is that to a dealer its the equivalent of a feeler or price discovery. IMO, better if you’re in front of the sales rep discussing price. Your sig indicates you're in TX and that dealer is in NC. Kind of a hike. I would think that there would be cars close by in TX (and I know nothing within TX is exactly close by) to look at before venturing out of state. Go to the dealerships. Test drive some that are in your range. If they are not what you're looking for. Explain that to the salesrep. Tell him what you are looking for and the price you are willing to pay. You're not giving anything away - it will always be your call to buy or walk. If they run into something, they may call you (saving you the trouble). It's easier for them to make a directed sales call to someone who wants to close than deal w/a tire kicker at the dealership.
Also, in case you’re not already doing this, check all the forums. There are a lot of cars out there not listed on the commercial sites. Some even have tasteful non-warranty invalidating mods that you would’ve made once you purchased. It’s a economical way of getting a turn-key modded Carrera.
#22
+1
And don't buy an Arctic car unless it has sport chrono!
And don't buy an Arctic car unless it has sport chrono!
There ya go. An unbiased opinion from Rye on the arctic silver :-)
Seriously, agree w/you on it being overpriced. My guess is they're probably aware of that too. So your offer should be low $50's (and only b/c of that CPO). Offers over the internet/phone are not as real as an offer in person. My experience is that they don’t move (experience buying my M3 and Z06). My guess is that to a dealer its the equivalent of a feeler or price discovery. IMO, better if you’re in front of the sales rep discussing price. Your sig indicates you're in TX and that dealer is in NC. Kind of a hike. I would think that there would be cars close by in TX (and I know nothing within TX is exactly close by) to look at before venturing out of state. Go to the dealerships. Test drive some that are in your range. If they are not what you're looking for. Explain that to the salesrep. Tell him what you are looking for and the price you are willing to pay. You're not giving anything away - it will always be your call to buy or walk. If they run into something, they may call you (saving you the trouble). It's easier for them to make a directed sales call to someone who wants to close than deal w/a tire kicker at the dealership.
Also, in case you’re not already doing this, check all the forums. There are a lot of cars out there not listed on the commercial sites. Some even have tasteful non-warranty invalidating mods that you would’ve made once you purchased. It’s a economical way of getting a turn-key modded Carrera.
Seriously, agree w/you on it being overpriced. My guess is they're probably aware of that too. So your offer should be low $50's (and only b/c of that CPO). Offers over the internet/phone are not as real as an offer in person. My experience is that they don’t move (experience buying my M3 and Z06). My guess is that to a dealer its the equivalent of a feeler or price discovery. IMO, better if you’re in front of the sales rep discussing price. Your sig indicates you're in TX and that dealer is in NC. Kind of a hike. I would think that there would be cars close by in TX (and I know nothing within TX is exactly close by) to look at before venturing out of state. Go to the dealerships. Test drive some that are in your range. If they are not what you're looking for. Explain that to the salesrep. Tell him what you are looking for and the price you are willing to pay. You're not giving anything away - it will always be your call to buy or walk. If they run into something, they may call you (saving you the trouble). It's easier for them to make a directed sales call to someone who wants to close than deal w/a tire kicker at the dealership.
Also, in case you’re not already doing this, check all the forums. There are a lot of cars out there not listed on the commercial sites. Some even have tasteful non-warranty invalidating mods that you would’ve made once you purchased. It’s a economical way of getting a turn-key modded Carrera.
#23
I'm kinda in the same situation as KMK454. I'm planning my 997 C2S purchase next year though. Couple of questions to members:
1. Do you guys think next year 05-06 997 C2S prices will drop compared to now? What is the average annual price depreciation of a 911(997) C2S?
2. Is the CPO really worth the extra 5K?
Thanks
1. Do you guys think next year 05-06 997 C2S prices will drop compared to now? What is the average annual price depreciation of a 911(997) C2S?
2. Is the CPO really worth the extra 5K?
Thanks
#24
AFAIK, the '05-'07 model years are generally about $5k different per year. Goes up sharply for '08's. Hard to tell if there will be a clip in prices if the 2010 model has notable differences.
CPO generally adds about $2k. Generally worth it if you can get it, but it means you get a higher priced dealer car. Can be okay if you get lucky with price/timing at the dealer.
CPO generally adds about $2k. Generally worth it if you can get it, but it means you get a higher priced dealer car. Can be okay if you get lucky with price/timing at the dealer.
#25
Just my opinion but I don't understand the love for sport chrono in a non-turbo 997.1
Obvious benefits for those with a turbo or PDK but this is different.
It's a gimmick that makes the throttle more sensitive. For me it was a detriment on the track and even worse for auto-x. If you need more gas - hit the throttle harder!
Useless at the track as well - nobody would accept your new lap record timed by SC - you've got to run a real timing setup with transponders.
Obvious benefits for those with a turbo or PDK but this is different.
It's a gimmick that makes the throttle more sensitive. For me it was a detriment on the track and even worse for auto-x. If you need more gas - hit the throttle harder!
Useless at the track as well - nobody would accept your new lap record timed by SC - you've got to run a real timing setup with transponders.
#26
And I agree, the silver was beautiful!
#27
Silver is a nice color. I wasn't particular, so the altlas gray was OK w/me. These colors appeal to more people and it will be helpful when you sell it in a few years to upgrade to the GT3.
#28
Ironic thread. I just did the same thing,test drove a 997S. I saw a 997S I really liked in the price that it's my budget. Now I can't stop thinking about getting rid of my STI I just bought for it.
I had two 993s and M3/M5s so I'm not unfamiliar with sports cars. The 997S is a brutal machine!
I had two 993s and M3/M5s so I'm not unfamiliar with sports cars. The 997S is a brutal machine!
#29
3. S vs. non-S? I know the hp, .2L discplacement, and suspension/brakes are there... is it worth it to hold out for the S? Or given the price cap, would a regular 911 suffice? The dealer had a beautiful CPO 07 w/ 33k miles for 55k, non-S. Outright hp isn't the big concern anymore, as both would have significantly less than my modded C6 (doing 425 rwhp right now). Just curious on the best overall car...
So then it is strictly money decision what choose as a starting platform. C2S bigger clutch, engine and PASM are good selling points but I would advice you to drive both cars really carefully and decide for yourself if you really feel difference and it justifies price diff. In my case I had $14K difference between C2 I bought and cheapest available C2S with same set of options. So since then I got original PCM navigation, bluetooth, 19" OZ wheels (and now have spare rims kit), radar and still remain well under price point of C2S which did not have any of those items, other than stock 19" rims.
Both C2 and C2S have plenty of potential as building up platforms. C2S is better equipped from the beginning and offers some degree of switchability. Other than that those cars are essentially same. C2S has more hype factor of course. .2 engine displacement diff is barely noticeable on street. The only time you`ll really see it is when you`ll need to race with another car.
PS. And my gut feeling is that if you like myself do have plans to put supercharger into your car when ot goes off warranty - 3.6 base engine will have better survival chances as 3.8 is essentially same exact engine but forced to its max. 3.6 base one should have better resource, theoretically. I may be wrong about it, who knows.
Last edited by utkinpol; 08-05-2009 at 08:13 AM.
#30
Nice looking. Yeah, you will probably need to get into the low to mid $50k's.
Note that the car does not have sport chrono. I would think 10 times before getting a car without it. Be sure you drive an S with the sport chrono and use the sport button. I only drive with the button on. YOU will definitely want it.
Note that the car does not have sport chrono. I would think 10 times before getting a car without it. Be sure you drive an S with the sport chrono and use the sport button. I only drive with the button on. YOU will definitely want it.
It`s just a question to decide on - to go with reflash of stock ECU or get completely custom ECU module. I am still researching this.