Repainting the hood?
#1
10-10-2009, 11:54 PM
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: New York
Posts: 587
Rep Power: 58 
Repainting the hood?
After a nice platinum care from my local dealer, my car looked shiny and new. The next day I had to drive on a rainy night, when I came back, my front hood and bumper took a big toll and its full of stone chipping the paint.
Would it be wise to have the front hood repainted all over, plus the front bumper?
I'm thinking of the resale value and if they could measure the thickness of the paint of the aluminum hood or the plastic bumper?
Than have the red car go into another platinum care with a clear bra this time for sure!
Would it be wise to have the front hood repainted all over, plus the front bumper?
I'm thinking of the resale value and if they could measure the thickness of the paint of the aluminum hood or the plastic bumper?
Than have the red car go into another platinum care with a clear bra this time for sure!
#2
10-11-2009, 07:33 AM
Dr. Color Chip.....
After a nice platinum care from my local dealer, my car looked shiny and new. The next day I had to drive on a rainy night, when I came back, my front hood and bumper took a big toll and its full of stone chipping the paint.
Would it be wise to have the front hood repainted all over, plus the front bumper?
I'm thinking of the resale value and if they could measure the thickness of the paint of the aluminum hood or the plastic bumper?
Than have the red car go into another platinum care with a clear bra this time for sure!
Would it be wise to have the front hood repainted all over, plus the front bumper?
I'm thinking of the resale value and if they could measure the thickness of the paint of the aluminum hood or the plastic bumper?
Than have the red car go into another platinum care with a clear bra this time for sure!
#4
10-11-2009, 09:22 AM
If your primary concern is resale, just document the facts: show pics of the chips, save receipt for repaint, and I'd hope any prospective independent buyer would appreciate the care you took. Just beware that if you sell to a dealer, on a trade, I'd expect they will most likely ding you for it, as they are always looking to make the squeeze.
CATTMAN
CATTMAN
#5
10-11-2009, 10:05 AM
Pardon if this is a slight detour to this thread, but it is somewhat germane and seemed to be better than starting a new one...
I'd like to learn a bit about 'color sanding' (I believe that's the term). As I vaguely understand it, it's a very light wet sanding process to level the finish of a paint job.
The reason I ask is that when I purchased my used car, the glass, hood and (less so) top of the front and rear fenders were subtly pitted. I didn't realize it until the car had been shipped and closely examined in my garage - though it's more obvious in bright sun. It's as if someone took a quick/light sand blast to the car. I ultimately replaced the windshield because at low sun-angle lighting, the view was somewhat diffused.
On the paint, I've used a variety of mild compounds with a PC machine. Though better, I can still see it and assume that if this was a black car, it would be quite noticeable.
So, I'm considering a more aggressive process and hear that color (wet?) sanding is it. Is it a cure for this problem? Is it something a lay person can do? Is it a pro-only job and if so, now long and how much should it cost.
Again, apologies for the detour.
Thanks,
V
I'd like to learn a bit about 'color sanding' (I believe that's the term). As I vaguely understand it, it's a very light wet sanding process to level the finish of a paint job.
The reason I ask is that when I purchased my used car, the glass, hood and (less so) top of the front and rear fenders were subtly pitted. I didn't realize it until the car had been shipped and closely examined in my garage - though it's more obvious in bright sun. It's as if someone took a quick/light sand blast to the car. I ultimately replaced the windshield because at low sun-angle lighting, the view was somewhat diffused.
On the paint, I've used a variety of mild compounds with a PC machine. Though better, I can still see it and assume that if this was a black car, it would be quite noticeable.
So, I'm considering a more aggressive process and hear that color (wet?) sanding is it. Is it a cure for this problem? Is it something a lay person can do? Is it a pro-only job and if so, now long and how much should it cost.
Again, apologies for the detour.
Thanks,
V
#6
10-11-2009, 11:08 AM
Premium Sponsor
Pardon if this is a slight detour to this thread, but it is somewhat germane and seemed to be better than starting a new one...
I'd like to learn a bit about 'color sanding' (I believe that's the term). As I vaguely understand it, it's a very light wet sanding process to level the finish of a paint job.
The reason I ask is that when I purchased my used car, the glass, hood and (less so) top of the front and rear fenders were subtly pitted. I didn't realize it until the car had been shipped and closely examined in my garage - though it's more obvious in bright sun. It's as if someone took a quick/light sand blast to the car. I ultimately replaced the windshield because at low sun-angle lighting, the view was somewhat diffused.
On the paint, I've used a variety of mild compounds with a PC machine. Though better, I can still see it and assume that if this was a black car, it would be quite noticeable.
So, I'm considering a more aggressive process and hear that color (wet?) sanding is it. Is it a cure for this problem? Is it something a lay person can do? Is it a pro-only job and if so, now long and how much should it cost.
Again, apologies for the detour.
Thanks,
V
I'd like to learn a bit about 'color sanding' (I believe that's the term). As I vaguely understand it, it's a very light wet sanding process to level the finish of a paint job.
The reason I ask is that when I purchased my used car, the glass, hood and (less so) top of the front and rear fenders were subtly pitted. I didn't realize it until the car had been shipped and closely examined in my garage - though it's more obvious in bright sun. It's as if someone took a quick/light sand blast to the car. I ultimately replaced the windshield because at low sun-angle lighting, the view was somewhat diffused.
On the paint, I've used a variety of mild compounds with a PC machine. Though better, I can still see it and assume that if this was a black car, it would be quite noticeable.
So, I'm considering a more aggressive process and hear that color (wet?) sanding is it. Is it a cure for this problem? Is it something a lay person can do? Is it a pro-only job and if so, now long and how much should it cost.
Again, apologies for the detour.
Thanks,
V
#7
10-11-2009, 11:10 AM
Premium Sponsor
After a nice platinum care from my local dealer, my car looked shiny and new. The next day I had to drive on a rainy night, when I came back, my front hood and bumper took a big toll and its full of stone chipping the paint.
Would it be wise to have the front hood repainted all over, plus the front bumper?
I'm thinking of the resale value and if they could measure the thickness of the paint of the aluminum hood or the plastic bumper?
Than have the red car go into another platinum care with a clear bra this time for sure!
Would it be wise to have the front hood repainted all over, plus the front bumper?
I'm thinking of the resale value and if they could measure the thickness of the paint of the aluminum hood or the plastic bumper?
Than have the red car go into another platinum care with a clear bra this time for sure!
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#8
10-11-2009, 11:23 AM
As MoeMistry said, leave it to a pro.
I'm far from a pro, but I have painted a few cars and earlier this year did a thorough wet-sanding and polishing of a 914. It really needed that to correct my mediocre paint job.
Not sure if you're seeing real pitting/scratches or orange peel in the paint job. Your paint will consist of two layers - a color coat and a clear coat on top. If there is orange peel on the color coat and you want it corrected, then you'll need to sand through the clear, wet sand the color (if there is thick enough paint) and then re-clear the car.
If the orange peel (or similar flaws) are only on the clear coat, then you could potentially fix it yourself, but there is danger of sanding through the clear coat and then you'll have an uneven finish on your paint that will really annoy you and you'll have to get it re-cleared.
If you want to try it yourself on an inconspicuous area (and if polishing isn't fixing the problem or taking way too long), get some 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and a proper semi-rigid sanding block, let the paper soak in water for at least 20 mins, and constantly rewet it while gently - gently - sanding the flawed area. Just a little bit at a time. Wipe the area clean and see how it looks after a half dozen strokes. If it's orange peel, you'll see little round areas of dull (sanded) clear coat surrounded by glossy, untouched areas. This is showing you the height difference of the clear coat and how uneven it is. If you want perfection, carefully sand the clear until it's all dull - but no more because you'll risk sanding through the clear coat and you'll be screwed.
When you are done sanding your car, break out the heavy compound and a rotary polisher (or a few days with an orbital
) and start your polishing. Once again, be careful to not ruin the paint job. A rotary polisher in novice hands can do some damage.
If this sounds a bit daunting (and it probably should), leave it to a pro.
I'm far from a pro, but I have painted a few cars and earlier this year did a thorough wet-sanding and polishing of a 914. It really needed that to correct my mediocre paint job.
Not sure if you're seeing real pitting/scratches or orange peel in the paint job. Your paint will consist of two layers - a color coat and a clear coat on top. If there is orange peel on the color coat and you want it corrected, then you'll need to sand through the clear, wet sand the color (if there is thick enough paint) and then re-clear the car.
If the orange peel (or similar flaws) are only on the clear coat, then you could potentially fix it yourself, but there is danger of sanding through the clear coat and then you'll have an uneven finish on your paint that will really annoy you and you'll have to get it re-cleared.
If you want to try it yourself on an inconspicuous area (and if polishing isn't fixing the problem or taking way too long), get some 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and a proper semi-rigid sanding block, let the paper soak in water for at least 20 mins, and constantly rewet it while gently - gently - sanding the flawed area. Just a little bit at a time. Wipe the area clean and see how it looks after a half dozen strokes. If it's orange peel, you'll see little round areas of dull (sanded) clear coat surrounded by glossy, untouched areas. This is showing you the height difference of the clear coat and how uneven it is. If you want perfection, carefully sand the clear until it's all dull - but no more because you'll risk sanding through the clear coat and you'll be screwed.
When you are done sanding your car, break out the heavy compound and a rotary polisher (or a few days with an orbital
) and start your polishing. Once again, be careful to not ruin the paint job. A rotary polisher in novice hands can do some damage.If this sounds a bit daunting (and it probably should), leave it to a pro.
#9
10-11-2009, 03:00 PM
Yep, that's daunting. I'll pass. But before I start pursuing the help of an expert, I'll try to post a picture to get some impressions of what the problem is, and whether it's worth fixing. I am by no means a paint expert but I constantly try to improve my detailing skills and it's slow going. But I don't think it's orange peel. It's more like very pointed and discretely separated dots/imperfections in the finish.
But thanks for the help, and talking me down from considering handling this myself.
I also worry that when an expert takes a close look at it and does some measurements, I'll find that it was repainted.
But thanks for the help, and talking me down from considering handling this myself.
I also worry that when an expert takes a close look at it and does some measurements, I'll find that it was repainted.
As MoeMistry said, leave it to a pro.
I'm far from a pro, but I have painted a few cars and earlier this year did a thorough wet-sanding and polishing of a 914. It really needed that to correct my mediocre paint job.
Not sure if you're seeing real pitting/scratches or orange peel in the paint job. Your paint will consist of two layers - a color coat and a clear coat on top. If there is orange peel on the color coat and you want it corrected, then you'll need to sand through the clear, wet sand the color (if there is thick enough paint) and then re-clear the car.
If the orange peel (or similar flaws) are only on the clear coat, then you could potentially fix it yourself, but there is danger of sanding through the clear coat and then you'll have an uneven finish on your paint that will really annoy you and you'll have to get it re-cleared.
If you want to try it yourself on an inconspicuous area (and if polishing isn't fixing the problem or taking way too long), get some 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and a proper semi-rigid sanding block, let the paper soak in water for at least 20 mins, and constantly rewet it while gently - gently - sanding the flawed area. Just a little bit at a time. Wipe the area clean and see how it looks after a half dozen strokes. If it's orange peel, you'll see little round areas of dull (sanded) clear coat surrounded by glossy, untouched areas. This is showing you the height difference of the clear coat and how uneven it is. If you want perfection, carefully sand the clear until it's all dull - but no more because you'll risk sanding through the clear coat and you'll be screwed.
When you are done sanding your car, break out the heavy compound and a rotary polisher (or a few days with an orbital) and start your polishing. Once again, be careful to not ruin the paint job. A rotary polisher in novice hands can do some damage.
If this sounds a bit daunting (and it probably should), leave it to a pro.
I'm far from a pro, but I have painted a few cars and earlier this year did a thorough wet-sanding and polishing of a 914. It really needed that to correct my mediocre paint job.
Not sure if you're seeing real pitting/scratches or orange peel in the paint job. Your paint will consist of two layers - a color coat and a clear coat on top. If there is orange peel on the color coat and you want it corrected, then you'll need to sand through the clear, wet sand the color (if there is thick enough paint) and then re-clear the car.
If the orange peel (or similar flaws) are only on the clear coat, then you could potentially fix it yourself, but there is danger of sanding through the clear coat and then you'll have an uneven finish on your paint that will really annoy you and you'll have to get it re-cleared.
If you want to try it yourself on an inconspicuous area (and if polishing isn't fixing the problem or taking way too long), get some 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and a proper semi-rigid sanding block, let the paper soak in water for at least 20 mins, and constantly rewet it while gently - gently - sanding the flawed area. Just a little bit at a time. Wipe the area clean and see how it looks after a half dozen strokes. If it's orange peel, you'll see little round areas of dull (sanded) clear coat surrounded by glossy, untouched areas. This is showing you the height difference of the clear coat and how uneven it is. If you want perfection, carefully sand the clear until it's all dull - but no more because you'll risk sanding through the clear coat and you'll be screwed.
When you are done sanding your car, break out the heavy compound and a rotary polisher (or a few days with an orbital
) and start your polishing. Once again, be careful to not ruin the paint job. A rotary polisher in novice hands can do some damage.If this sounds a bit daunting (and it probably should), leave it to a pro.
Last edited by Verde; 10-11-2009 at 03:02 PM. Reason: typo
#10
10-11-2009, 05:51 PM
Painting the bumpers is OK - plastic bumpers are very rarely exactly the same color as the painted metal parts. The hood I wouldn't do because of the concern that when you trade it or sell it, it will almost always be detectable and the first thought, no matter what you say is that the car was in an accident. A friend has a 99 911 with the same concern and the owner of the best body shop in town told him the same as I am telling you. I'd either do Dr. colorchip or have it professionally airbrushed.
If you show someone pictures of chips in the paint on the hood, they will assume that the car was wrecked on the day after the pictures were taken. That's what I'd think.
If you show someone pictures of chips in the paint on the hood, they will assume that the car was wrecked on the day after the pictures were taken. That's what I'd think.
#11
10-12-2009, 12:56 AM
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: New York
Posts: 587
Rep Power: 58
Thanks a lot guys for taking the time to read and reply, I really appreciate it!
I'll be busy tonight after work but I think tomorrow I can take some photos and show the damages. I've talked with a Porsche dealer here, I think I will go with hood/bumper repaint (take photos, before and after, have my papers done at Porsche -for resale), then a platinum care and a clear bra, so this wont happen again.
Thank you all again!
I'll be busy tonight after work but I think tomorrow I can take some photos and show the damages. I've talked with a Porsche dealer here, I think I will go with hood/bumper repaint (take photos, before and after, have my papers done at Porsche -for resale), then a platinum care and a clear bra, so this wont happen again.
Thank you all again!
#13
10-12-2009, 01:15 AM
Aesthetically I feel the repaint is a great idea. In terms of resale I recommend to leave the scratch and express to the potentail buyer that you did not paint it to rule out any doubts of more serious bodywork.
BTW --there is a third choice .
You couild replace both the bumper (with a gt3 bumper) and the hood with a Gemballa hood . Take a look just at the hood.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...che-997-a.html
BTW --there is a third choice .
You couild replace both the bumper (with a gt3 bumper) and the hood with a Gemballa hood . Take a look just at the hood.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...che-997-a.html
#14
10-12-2009, 01:19 AM
Aesthetically I feel the repaint is a great idea. In terms of resale I recommend to leave the scratch and express to the potentail buyer that you did not paint it to rule out any doubts of more serious bodywork.
BTW --there is a third choice .
You couild replace both the bumper (with a gt3 bumper) and the hood with a Gemballa hood . Take a look just at the hood.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...che-997-a.html
BTW --there is a third choice .
You couild replace both the bumper (with a gt3 bumper) and the hood with a Gemballa hood . Take a look just at the hood.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...che-997-a.html
Jason
#15
10-12-2009, 01:33 AM
Aesthetically I feel the repaint is a great idea. In terms of resale I recommend to leave the scratch and express to the potentail buyer that you did not paint it to rule out any doubts of more serious bodywork.
BTW --there is a third choice .
You couild replace both the bumper (with a gt3 bumper) and the hood with a Gemballa hood . Take a look just at the hood.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...che-997-a.html
BTW --there is a third choice .
You couild replace both the bumper (with a gt3 bumper) and the hood with a Gemballa hood . Take a look just at the hood.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...che-997-a.html