Hardwire V1 to 997.2
#16
Thanks all for the info, I appreciate it. While I don't seem to have a rear wiper, I did have the fuse for it. On the 2009 IIRC it actually mentions in the booklet (thanks for the recommendation) that it is used for a number of items, not just the wiper. I did try and use every other open fuse socket, just to test, but no luck.
I think I will have to find one of those add-a-fuse objects and try and use that going forward. Thanks for all the help!
I think I will have to find one of those add-a-fuse objects and try and use that going forward. Thanks for all the help!
#17
I just hardwired my new V1 in my 05 997 yesterday. I used fuse socket position C1, which did not have a fuse installed. I attached a spade type solderless connector to the hot wire and plugged it straight into the bottom side of the socket, which is the battery side. You do not need to go through a fuse in the fuse block since the Valentine hardwire kit already has an inline fuse in the hot wire.
I think if you tried to use one of the fuse tap kits (earlier post), the fuse block cover would not go back in place.
I think if you tried to use one of the fuse tap kits (earlier post), the fuse block cover would not go back in place.
#18
You are quite right; I got the fuse tap kit recently and it does not look like it will fit without me cutting holes in the fuse box cover. I checked, C1 on my car is most definitely taken, although the manual does state that this is for the AWD system (Turbo only). I do not have a Turbo.
At this point I am wondering if trying to solder into the map lights is the best method - this just isn't working for the fuse panel.
At this point I am wondering if trying to solder into the map lights is the best method - this just isn't working for the fuse panel.
#19
We show a Hardwire install on this thread at post 12, add-a-fuse fits under 997 fuse panel cover. Also please have a look at our G Bracket:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...7-g-rides.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...7-g-rides.html
#21
Thank you for the order! I'll send you another email which gives some more detail on the hardwire. Please let me know if I can do more.
#22
Here's my G Rides install -- it is a very clean fit. Highly recommended.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...t-install.html
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...t-install.html
#23
Having thought more about my V1 hard wire installation and following this thread, I modified my hard wiring today. The type of Add-A-Fuse that Gary shows will fit underneath the fuse box cover. I just bought one today locally at Vetco Electronics on Northup in Bellevue, WA. It was manufactured by WirthCo (www.wirthco.com). I decided to add this fuse to my previous wiring not because the V1 was unprotected (there is an inline fuse) but because I did not necessarily think it was a good idea to have any amount of un-fused hot wire running underneath my dash.
#24
Just finished my installation - took around 5 hours in the heat without rushing anything (took my time to be safe). Got the add-a-fuse inserted into C6, then put the 15A fuse that was there in the add-a-fuse original socket. Used a pink 3A fuse for the add-a-fuse, and spliced in the V1. Drilled the mount, but had a bit of an issue getting everything to fit properly - had to get a second set of hands to push up on the bracket. Note that I used a slightly smaller drill bit, and actually drilled *through* the plastic nub. Worked just fine, a nice snug fit.
The hours part came from deciding to remove the trim piece to route the wire - that took a couple of hours; maybe 30m to get it out safely, and 1.5 to get it back in. One helpful hint - undo the screw on the vertical piece of the b-pillar and pop out the top bracket to make inserting the top a-pillar piece easier, then button everything up again.
Second helpful hint - use a pair of wire cutters to cut a triangle out of the plastic side of the fuse box panel so that when you put the carpeted piece back on, it doesn't crimp the wire.
Nice clean setup - very happy so far.
The hours part came from deciding to remove the trim piece to route the wire - that took a couple of hours; maybe 30m to get it out safely, and 1.5 to get it back in. One helpful hint - undo the screw on the vertical piece of the b-pillar and pop out the top bracket to make inserting the top a-pillar piece easier, then button everything up again.
Second helpful hint - use a pair of wire cutters to cut a triangle out of the plastic side of the fuse box panel so that when you put the carpeted piece back on, it doesn't crimp the wire.
Nice clean setup - very happy so far.
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