997 2005-2012 911 C2, C2S, C4, C4S, GTS, Targa and Cabriolet Model Discussion.

OCD Oil Change on the Red Dragon

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  #91  
Old 11-06-2010, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Sharkys
I just aquired an 05 C2S Launch Edition. I'm currently not set up to change oil at my place (home construction), but would like to know if there are any places in San Diego to borrow a lift/garage bay? I'm in the process of ordering the materials for a do it yourself oil change - don't trust the dealer nor have I found an Independent I can trust. Anyone due for an oil change? I'll purchase the oil (Mobile 1 or Motul) or doughnuts if anyone can spare the place =P
PM me I have a place and always willing to help a fellow porschefile!

Jason
 
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Old 11-29-2010, 11:32 PM
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How to reset Service indicator?

With another board member's help, I did oil change on my 2005 997.1CS about 6 weeks (1500 miles) ago. Now, my dash indicator shows "Service Due in 3 Days"

Anyone know how to reset or turn off this service message?

Ps. I have a Durametric when I bought the car from the previous owner.

Thanks
 
  #93  
Old 04-07-2011, 07:54 AM
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JEllis,

First thank you for posting this in such detail as I am about to embark on my first oil change for my 2007 997.1 C4S (Cab) and in appreciation I just gave you "Rep Points".

If I may ask; in your pics is seems like you first changed the old oil filter and installed new one first before draining the old oil via the oil drain plug. Is that correct?

Going to change the oil out this afternoon and just looking to avoid creating a mess all over my garage floor.

Regards,
David
 
  #94  
Old 04-07-2011, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Musclehedz101
JEllis,

First thank you for posting this in such detail as I am about to embark on my first oil change for my 2007 997.1 C4S (Cab) and in appreciation I just gave you "Rep Points".

If I may ask; in your pics is seems like you first changed the old oil filter and installed new one first before draining the old oil via the oil drain plug. Is that correct?

Going to change the oil out this afternoon and just looking to avoid creating a mess all over my garage floor.

Regards,
David
I usually do the filter second but in this case I wanted to get the adapter and new filter installed. I do not think it matters either way.

Thanks,
Jason
 
  #95  
Old 04-07-2011, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by JEllis
I usually do the filter second but in this case I wanted to get the adapter and new filter installed. I do not think it matters either way.

Thanks,
Jason
Ok,last question (hopefully)...

The car has been sitting for a week. Is it best to warm up the oil before changing oil? Or does it matter? Only asking because I've currently have it up on jack stands with wheels off, doing other maintenance.
 
  #96  
Old 04-07-2011, 05:49 PM
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Yes it's better to have the engine oil warmed up before draining the oil, otherwise you will be waiting a really long time for it to flow out.
 
  #97  
Old 04-07-2011, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Musclehedz101
Ok,last question (hopefully)...

The car has been sitting for a week. Is it best to warm up the oil before changing oil? Or does it matter? Only asking because I've currently have it up on jack stands with wheels off, doing other maintenance.
Originally Posted by motosport3
Yes it's better to have the engine oil warmed up before draining the oil, otherwise you will be waiting a really long time for it to flow out.
I have two stances on this...

1. Having the oil somewhat warm allows the oil to drain faster. Buuuttt, if the car has been sitting a while and you drain right away you might get more trapped oil due to the fact that your sitting engine has allowed the oil to run all to the bottom. Also, starting your engine after sitting for a while is going to result in a dry start since the oil requires the engine driven pumps to circulate back to the top, there will be a few seconds... especially during starting where there is no oil (lets say less oil).

2. So, if you drain the oil right away. And then poor the oil from the top, in theory there would be more oil at the top of the motor and less at the bottom. The result would be less of a dry start.

Having said all this I dont think one way is better than the other. And, I doubt pooring the oil from the top really reduces the effect of a "dry" start after the car has sat. However, I am sure there will be opinions on both sides.

My cars sits for long periods of time... not my choice... and I have done both. I have not had an issue either way.

Jason
 
  #98  
Old 06-15-2011, 07:56 PM
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Just want to add that I recently completed my first oil change after 1 year of car ownership. Reading this thread encouraged me to do it myself, and finding out that a local indy wanted $200 sealed the deal. I had done many oil changes on other vehicles in the past, but was a little stymied by the some what specialized tools required this time. For example, I knew the drain plug required an 8mm Allen socket. But I replaced the stock drain plug with an LN Engineering magnetic drain plug, which requires a 10mm Allen socket. Then even though I bought the Autozone "B" oil filter wrench recommended in a previous post it didn't work. So I went back to Autozone and bought a swivel style oil filter wrench, but it didn't work either (That filter housing was very tight!) I then resigned myself to having to spend $40 for the Porsche wrench, only to discover that neither of two local Porsche dealerships sell the oil filter wrench. I had to order one from Suncoast and ended up paying sales tax and $10 in shipping (total of $53). The moral of this story is it's not a difficult job but don't be a cheapskate like me and just buy the overpriced factory oil filter wrench and save yourself the aggravation I went through!
 

Last edited by Taxi!; 06-15-2011 at 08:00 PM.
  #99  
Old 06-15-2011, 09:49 PM
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Thumbs up Thanks!!

I just wanted to say Thank you for the information and inspiration. I did the oil filter change out along with the drain plug. It was a breeze. While I had the car up I swapped the brake lines for Goodridge SS Braided and flushed the system using the Power Probe Master Cylinder adapter. It was just fantastic to bleed the calipers so quickly.

Thanks again for a great post.

Bill
 
  #100  
Old 06-16-2011, 05:45 AM
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I also want to add good informative post. I will be picking up my new to me 2008 c2s tomorrow and will be doing my own oil changes in the future. If I decide to go the LE Engineering route do you think I need to be worried about it affecting my warranty that is in place on the car?
Anybody that is using the filter adapter, is it necessary to change the o-ring that sits between the adapter and block every time ( I am assuming no because this part is really never removed) the oil is changed ? If replacement is necessary where are you getting the new o-rings, LE Engineering? Is the crush washer that is used with magnetic drain plug the same part # as the factory one? You guys that are using the filter adapter, when you install the new filter are you pre filling the new filter with new oil before installing?I have always done this in the past on my other cars just to help build oil pressure that much quicker maybe makes no difference but seems to make sense.
 
  #101  
Old 06-16-2011, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by beaboarder
I also want to add good informative post. I will be picking up my new to me 2008 c2s tomorrow and will be doing my own oil changes in the future. If I decide to go the LE Engineering route do you think I need to be worried about it affecting my warranty that is in place on the car?
Anybody that is using the filter adapter, is it necessary to change the o-ring that sits between the adapter and block every time ( I am assuming no because this part is really never removed) the oil is changed ? If replacement is necessary where are you getting the new o-rings, LE Engineering? Is the crush washer that is used with magnetic drain plug the same part # as the factory one? You guys that are using the filter adapter, when you install the new filter are you pre filling the new filter with new oil before installing?I have always done this in the past on my other cars just to help build oil pressure that much quicker maybe makes no difference but seems to make sense.
There have been a couple of different discussions in this thread. For the stock filter housing I believe the Porsche OE wrench is the only option and I bought mine through Suncoast. Of course, if anyone knows of a cheaper one, please speak up.

If you go with the LN race filter adapter then you can use just about any cheapo filter wrench found in your local Kragens or Autozone.

Even with the $40 wrench, you will save loads in the long run. Especially if you are OCD like me and change your oil too much!

Glad this thread helped.

Jason
 
  #102  
Old 06-18-2011, 10:41 AM
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Thanks to you, JEllis, I will be changing the oil on my car this weekend. Ordered the LN magnetic drain plug & OEM oil filter wrench from Pelican Parts. There is a great oil special at O'Reillys. I am opting to go with the K&N oil filter cartridge as I cannot see the advantage of the spin off adapter to justify the cost. I will also bleed the brake system and change the spark plugs with some help from a buddy. These posts are a great resource.
 
  #103  
Old 06-19-2011, 04:27 PM
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This is what I bought last year but for the life of me can not find link to place i bought it from here in USA. It was under $30.00 and fits Porsche oil filter perfectly.

Oil Filter Cap Wrench Info:
WOLF'S HEAD model WH-903 L

Also has wing nuts on sides in case you need to use with slightly smaller oil filter casing.

BTW, I also bought LN Magnetic Drain plug w/ Oil filter spin-on adapter and will be installing at next oil change along with changing to Castrol 5W-40 from Mobil 1 0W-40.
 
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  #104  
Old 10-28-2011, 09:35 AM
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cant wait to try this my self i'm just scared about this 5w-40, should i be ?
 
  #105  
Old 10-28-2011, 10:16 AM
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No, in fact LN engineering specifically recommends going from 0w- oils to the 5w oils since they provide better protection to the IMS bearings. If you really want to give your engine maximum protection, add a bottle of ZDDP additive too (several different brands available) as it provides additional zinc for high pressure contact points (like IMS bearings).
 


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