I am looking to see anyone who's had experience buying from another Porsche dealer a few hundred miles from home.

I am in N. California but found a car in a So. California Porsche dealer which I am interested in. However, I have never dealt with a "remote" dealer and am completely lost. So any help will be very much appreciated. i.e. what information do I need; who do I contact at the dealership; shipping; etc. Basically, any help...

BTW, what kind of bargaining can you usually do on a CPO'd car?

Thanks.

 

You're so close (400 miles or so) you ought to just do this in person.

 

I have considered this option but would like to at least get the price down right before I plan a trip. Is it possible to negotiate without being face to face?

 

I bought my car from San Diego and live in Boston...about as far away as it gets. There is nothing you need to know about buying a car from a distance. But here are a few things you should know anyways:

1 - See the car in person. I dont care how much it is talked up by the dealer or someone else who saw it, no one will ever be as picky as the actual car owner.

2 - They want to sell the car. Offer them something low since you are so far away and have to pay extra for it to be shipped. Make sure you take off normal amounts for ANYTHING that may be not perfect, ie rock chips of vurb rash on rims...anything you can find.

If I can think of anything else I will let you know.

 

I'm in the same boat, except worse since I'm looking at a car out of state. It's a CPO car, so my plan is to feel them out and see if they are willing to negotiate. Basically I'll ask how firm the pricing is. If they say "this is a lost leader price" or some other bs then I'll say thanks, good luck and let's not waste anymore of my time. If there is wiggle room then I plan to pay for a paint test and visual inspection to make sure the car hasn't been in any accidents and had major body work done. That should yield better pictures and details of any cosmetic flaws and give some areas to negotiate price.

Another option is to ask for a SoCal forum member to check the car out for you. But I agree with others, you're so close just drive/fly down yourself.

 

I've found email to be most effective way to communicate. That way there is always a written record of all statements.

Can I interest any of you guys in my 2008 CPO'd C2S?
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...carrera-s.html

 

AxxIrod your car looks VERY nice. I love the dash work. GLWS

 

5 weeks ago I bought an '07 Targa 4S (4500 miles) from Washington DC in a private sale. (I live in NYC). My previous 911 was CPO from the Manhattan dealer. I did a ton of pricing research and talking to dealers across the country before the DC purchase. They seemed willing to discount up to 8% quoted price in some cases, though that was more likely in cases where the listing was more than 2 weeks old.

In my experience, out of state dealers spoken to my telephone were much easier to negotiate with than my local dealers, probably because the NY dealer thought I was more captive to him because he's nearer to home (though maybe also that's a NY attitude at work!). Tell the SoCal dealer you are not coming in unless you first have an agreed upon price. Your negotiating position is much stronger before they know you spent time and $$ already to get down there.

My advice re inspection/shipping is fly down there, inspect in person, and drive it home. Shipping SoCal to NoCal would run you about $300-400 (uncovered transport). I had to ship because I didn't have plates but that process raising certain risks of damage best avoided if possible, though not a deal-breaker by any means. I completely agree that you will find things in person or maybe on a test drive that the dealer won't mention. Even if he doesn't discount, you at least have a good shot at their service shop correcting it before you seal the deal.

Ask to see the CPO report prior. If any of the tires or brake pads are less than an "8" wear-rating (they will cert up to a "6" I believe) then ask for a discount.

Final thought: Don't be pressured into a price you don't like. IMO it is definitely worth considering out of state dealers. As I'm sure you know, some parts of this country are in much worse shape than others economically, not to mention facing down four more months of winter. That creates bargaining leverage (especially on cabs) worth travelling (and shipping) for. The warranty is nationwide, and any dealer will CPO the car (for a price, is it's not already and within 4 yrs of original purchase).

Best of luck!

 

I live in Florida and bought my car new from Princeton Porsche in NJ. The car was actually a dealer-trade with another dealer in Connecticut. I called Princeton and agreed on the price (after a few days going back and forth), flew to CT dealer to inspect the car, wired the money the same afternoon, and had the car delivered to me in 4 days. Before I finalized my purchase with Princeton, I even called and made an offer for a comparable car at my local dealer, just because I want the dealer-customer relationship (for service). They didn't budge.

It was my first Porsche and the most pleasant transaction I've had in my entire life. Princeton had made this transaction a breeze and I sure will come back to them for future purchases.

 

To the OP:

I've bought (and sold ) a # of cars without first looking at them. My deal has always been to determine price agreement then go look at the car with it clearly understood that I can back out for any reason when I see it; likewise, if a buyer comes to me he has the same option. Obviously if the car is shipped ( to me or from me ) prior to seeing it then it is " as is ".

You've expressed in other posts that this is a new experience for you AND you are looking at a pricey vehicle; this is no time to be educating yourself, so either practice on some cheap junk or get on a plane with a 5 grand downpayment and documented credit availability. Finally, if you have a decent insurance company and agent you can get their " book value " on it; does not mean that you can buy it for that but that's what you'll get if you wreck it on the way home.

 

i bought my 01 some years ago site un seen, i did however get a third party ( acar guy) to look at it for me . then i had gold coast shipp it to ca from ill. it all worked out well.... i'm sure you can find a 6 spedder to look at it for you.....

with the new fiy laws i 'm stayin on the ground ...... good luck steve

 

First of all, thanks a lot for all of you who replied, the inputs are all priceless.

My fundamental question was how should I proceed and from what I gathered, this seems to be the correct order: (Please correct me if I am wrong)

1. Call/email the dealer regarding the car
2. Get the CPO report
3. Negotiate a price with an understanding that if the car does not fit the description when I come in, I am free to walk
4. Fly down to So Cal with a suitcase of cash or a check
5. Go to the dealer, inspect and test drive the car
6. Go home happy if possible

The car I am considering is a 2010 Turbo w/ 3k miles with an asking price of $154k, there is actually a brand new 2011 at a local dealer for $150k. I'd not pay more than 125k for the used one, do you think that I may be better off with the new one? Do you think that 8% off on a off-the-lot new Turbo is doable?

Thanks.

 

I have bought many vehicles from far away places too. All the points above I agree with. One poster is correct the the view of the local dealer vs the distant dealer. The local dealer views you as being on his turf and not likely to go gar away to buy. The distant dealer views your business as incremental to his local market and any sale is better than no sale. Especially with a pre-owned vehicle. If the one you are looking at is a turbo cab, that is about the asking price today for that one. I don't think you will see $125k but you might see $135-$140. Keep in mind these things vary widely because of the option costs, so it's very possible to see a used one loaded possibly higher than a new one with only basic options. My office is located near the dealer where I buy and guys routinely fly in to Atlanta and pick up there cars and drive them home. As far as shipping, these dealers knwo who the capable safe shippers are and that is who they use. Generally they aren't going to take alot of risks with a shipper that is slightly cheaper. There are MANY reliable safe shippers that take great care of high end vehicles. I have a family member who traded in a '10 cab turbo like you describe a cpl of months ago with similar miles and that where I got my info....Best success to you!

 

Can anyone provide more information on the "pain test" What are the specifications for normal paint thickness? Is this something that the dealer will do or do as part of a PPI, or do you need to bring it to another shop?

Thanks

 

Most any car dealers/used car managers have a paint meter which is a small device powered by a cpl of batteries and it is placed against the paint on each panel to measure thickness and you are looking for significant variations. I don't recall the thickness of paint on cars but it is pretty easy to recognize the large variance from the number on the screen. Seems to be like average was about 5.0-7.0 on most cars. If you get a reasing of 14 or 15 for example, need to see why it has been painted . Keep in mind even some paint work is ok for CPO cars. Many cars have had paint work but no collision damage. I stay away from it but how many people have had some road debris hit hood or idiot scratch a door. Any paint shop or hardcore car guy will check it with a meter for you.