Track Wear and Tear / Costs
#1
Track Wear and Tear / Costs
I'm interested in hitting the track a few times this year but I've heard very different opinions about how much wear & tear results from track days.
For example, I've been told that brake pads will wear "only" around twice as fast as street use versus break pads and rotors will need replacement every one or two track days. And tires every 2 track days. I've searched the forum and haven't found anything on this fairly simple question.
Those of you who track often, please provide advice on what kind of wear & tear and costs I can expect, keeping in mind that I'm starting in novice but will hope to advance to intermediate runs pretty soon after.
Thanks v much in advance.
For example, I've been told that brake pads will wear "only" around twice as fast as street use versus break pads and rotors will need replacement every one or two track days. And tires every 2 track days. I've searched the forum and haven't found anything on this fairly simple question.
Those of you who track often, please provide advice on what kind of wear & tear and costs I can expect, keeping in mind that I'm starting in novice but will hope to advance to intermediate runs pretty soon after.
Thanks v much in advance.
#2
I can get about 5-6 days out of a set of Pagid RS29's (Yellows) and my OEM rotors were lasting 2-3 days. Stock pads didn't have enough bite for my needs, and would glaze over pretty quick. I use Hoosier R6's and get about 4-5 days out of a set.
For you leave your car stock, and you will go through brakes and tires faster, but it is relevant to the track, and the conditions/surface. 1-2 days as a novice are not going to be too hard on the car.
For you leave your car stock, and you will go through brakes and tires faster, but it is relevant to the track, and the conditions/surface. 1-2 days as a novice are not going to be too hard on the car.
#3
every part of the car takes a beating so there's always the chance that something other than "the usual" - brakes, tires - will fail or wear prematurely. my advice is highly speculative, as all of it depends on the particular course and speeds you drive, how aggressive a driver you are, how quick you move from novice to intermediate, etc. but as a novice...
you should be able to squeeze quite a few track days out of your OEM pads. when i started out, i probably had 10+ days (along with normal street driving) before i had to change. and that was only the fronts. you also prob wont have to worry about rotors - they will wear, but should prob stay w/in spec. you will need a couple brake fluid changes throughout the season so learn to do yourself if you want to save on labor.
throw in couple oil changes too.
if using street tires, you should be able to get 10+ days (along with normal driving). but as your hobby grows, you should invest in 2nd set of rims/track rubber.
unless you tape up your front end or have protective film, youre def going to get chips and blemishes on paint, headlights and windshield.
final point: dont worry just get out there and enjoy it! deal with this crap afterward!
you should be able to squeeze quite a few track days out of your OEM pads. when i started out, i probably had 10+ days (along with normal street driving) before i had to change. and that was only the fronts. you also prob wont have to worry about rotors - they will wear, but should prob stay w/in spec. you will need a couple brake fluid changes throughout the season so learn to do yourself if you want to save on labor.
throw in couple oil changes too.
if using street tires, you should be able to get 10+ days (along with normal driving). but as your hobby grows, you should invest in 2nd set of rims/track rubber.
unless you tape up your front end or have protective film, youre def going to get chips and blemishes on paint, headlights and windshield.
final point: dont worry just get out there and enjoy it! deal with this crap afterward!
#4
do a day or two to get a feel before you make any investments on track specific equipment such as race tires.
stock brake setup is plenty good for novice on most tracks.
tires will get heated even after 1st day. it will start to pick up rubber left by others on the track.
you should do it. first time is a lot of fun especially if you have an instructor.
stock brake setup is plenty good for novice on most tracks.
tires will get heated even after 1st day. it will start to pick up rubber left by others on the track.
you should do it. first time is a lot of fun especially if you have an instructor.
#5
I put about 6,000 miles on my TT last season including 800 on the track (DE's). I replaced brake fluid (Motul 600) early in the season, tires (RE-11's) in mid season, and OEM brake pads towards the end. Based upon wear patterns, I suspect I'll repeat that sequence again in 2011, put on new rotors when the brakes get re-done, do the usual regular maintenance and call it good. All-in-all, the consumables are not too bad.
It can get kind of spendy, however, when you start messing with the car's hardware and software, dragging it around on a trailer pulled by a large truck you don't currently own and filling up the garage with parts and stuff. But it really gets expensive when the Mrs. informs you that she needs a new house so she can be comfortable amidst all your toys.
Think it can't happen? Think again.
It can get kind of spendy, however, when you start messing with the car's hardware and software, dragging it around on a trailer pulled by a large truck you don't currently own and filling up the garage with parts and stuff. But it really gets expensive when the Mrs. informs you that she needs a new house so she can be comfortable amidst all your toys.
Think it can't happen? Think again.
#6
Thanks all for the advice. I did one track day last year (at NJ Motorsports) and had an absolute blast, once we picked up the pace on the last 2 runs. If I continued to track, it would be to really push myself and the car to the limits.
Under those conditions, a back of the envelope calculation says that a track day can cost $700-$1000/day once you factor in track fees, insurance, and the day's share of tires, rotors, pads, fluids, clear bra (I don't have one and want to keep my car looking good), and maybe the premature breakdown of other parts (such as sport cats).
I've got some more research to do but i'm thinking maybe the better move for me is to buy a used Elise and track that since the car value is much less and the consumables are cheaper.
Under those conditions, a back of the envelope calculation says that a track day can cost $700-$1000/day once you factor in track fees, insurance, and the day's share of tires, rotors, pads, fluids, clear bra (I don't have one and want to keep my car looking good), and maybe the premature breakdown of other parts (such as sport cats).
I've got some more research to do but i'm thinking maybe the better move for me is to buy a used Elise and track that since the car value is much less and the consumables are cheaper.
#7
I can get about 5-6 days out of a set of Pagid RS29's (Yellows) and my OEM rotors were lasting 2-3 days. Stock pads didn't have enough bite for my needs, and would glaze over pretty quick. I use Hoosier R6's and get about 4-5 days out of a set.
For you leave your car stock, and you will go through brakes and tires faster, but it is relevant to the track, and the conditions/surface. 1-2 days as a novice are not going to be too hard on the car.
For you leave your car stock, and you will go through brakes and tires faster, but it is relevant to the track, and the conditions/surface. 1-2 days as a novice are not going to be too hard on the car.
and you do have cup vent ducts?
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#8
Starting out as a newbie at the track...you will not wear tires or brake pads as much as someone like myself or NorthVan that are up to speed in the solo class or instructor.
I kept great log books and I drove Sebring...17 turns.....and caught on to track driving rather fast and I got 8 track days out of the stock pads, 12 days out of the stock rotors, and 12 days out of the stock Michelin PS2 tires.
I now get 5-7 days out of a set of Toyo R888 tires, 4-5 days front Pagid RS29 pads, 10-12 days rear pads, 5-6 days front rotors and 12 days rear rotors. I change the oil every 2-4 track days and bleed the brakes for every event and flush the brakes every 5-6 events.
I kept great log books and I drove Sebring...17 turns.....and caught on to track driving rather fast and I got 8 track days out of the stock pads, 12 days out of the stock rotors, and 12 days out of the stock Michelin PS2 tires.
I now get 5-7 days out of a set of Toyo R888 tires, 4-5 days front Pagid RS29 pads, 10-12 days rear pads, 5-6 days front rotors and 12 days rear rotors. I change the oil every 2-4 track days and bleed the brakes for every event and flush the brakes every 5-6 events.
#9
I just wander what do you do with your rotors to make them last 2 days? may be you just brake too much? they should last at least 5 days imho, 2 is a bit extreme. or do you run an enduro for a whole day on them? to rephrase - how many actual running hours you get on them?
and you do have cup vent ducts?
and you do have cup vent ducts?
#11
I late brake, and drive hard. After a two days I have 1/4" spider cracks coming from all the drilled holes. I switched to the Giro Slotted, and they have gone 6 days with very minimal wear. I highly recommend them to anyone looking to replace there rotors. They are more money initially, but are lighter, a little bigger, and when it comes time to replace the rotors are similar to the OEM costs.
did you try to use that color changing paint to see what temperature you get on calipers?
#12
When I swapped them out, they were a burnt red and not the shinney OEM red. I bought a set of slightly used stock ones and they are well on there way to toasting up as well.
#13
I like it, perhaps that will be a new tag line for my track group.
#14
The best part of these brakes, is even though I am getting a little bit of heat in the brakes, they don't fail. Even with the dreaded ATE Blue brake fluid. I think that the RS29's are the big part of the cracking problem, but they work way too well to not use them.
#15
What makes ATE Blue brake fluid so dreaded?