Hey guys,

This is my first post but I've been lurking for nearly a year. I need some help so I can finally join the family!

I'm from the midwest but found a car online from Sherman Oaks, CA. I currently have it on hold pending a PPI. Since I'm not familiar with the area I was hoping some of the local people could recommend a reputable place to get it inspected. The dealer told me that Rusnak and The Auto Gallery are nearby.

What should I tell the inspector that I want done? DME scan with PPI? Or do I need to specifically say look for over-revs, do the full CPO checklist with CPO criteria, etc.? It's a former lease, one-owner 2007 C2 with 39k miles if that helps.

Also, if everything comes up clean, would it be reasonable to buy the car and have it shipped to me without ever driving/seeing it myself?

 

Any Porsche dealer is fine as long as it's not the one selling it to you. PPI is a must, have them email you a copy of the results. Talked to the mechanic that is doing your PPI and asked for his opinion. I had mine PPI'ed at Pioneer and the mechanic I spoke too was great, spend time to talked to me, told me about all the mods on my 997, etc...

I would not buy the car unseen, there are a lot of things that pictures don't capture, for example, paint chips, wear and tear on the seats, stains, etc. You need to fly out there and test drive it, see it for yourself first. At least you can feel better about the purchase. It'll make you sleep better at night. Good luck and welcome to the forum.

 

Thanks for the reply and welcome message. I'll definitely ask to talk to the mechanic that does the PPI and get the results emailed to me. I'm pretty sure I'll fly out and see the car for myself after the PPI. For all the reasons you listed, but also because the drive home should be fun.

I've searched the forums and noticed that some people get leakdown, compression, and other testing during their PPI. I'm not quite sure what those are. Do you think I'd need it for a 2007 C2 with 39k miles?

 

Here's a list I found from another thread. I would suggest that a leakdown should be conducted. Better to know now then be surprised later. It was taken from a thread for 993TT's, but 95% applies to your C2.

_______________________

ECU/DME
- (OBDII) read fault/readiness codes

TEST DRIVE
- full throttle in 2nd (once warm), ensure 0.8bar boost (not "limp home mode") and check for clutch slippage
- idle at 880 +/- 40rpm
- make sure no stall on quick stop with A/C on
- check for wheel rub (full left/right lock while forward/reverse)
- test ABS (ABD if possible)
- watch temps.
- Ensure oil thermostat opens
- listen for oil cooler fan speeds at stop
- Check braking (no shudder/squeal/pull to either side)
- Ensure smooth power steering
– downshift into 1st at ~15mph to ensure easy engagement, no odd noises
- upshift and downshift into 2nd at a variety of speeds, ensure no crnchiness or notchiness

TURBOS
– check for oil leakage
- look inside pipes (turbo to intercooler) for oil

CLUTCH
– ensure no “clicking” or “hanging up” in clutch pedal motion (engine stopped and running)
- no signs of slippage
- accumulator
- check for hard pedal before start
- check for pentosin leaks from accumulator/slave

DRIVETRAIN
- visually inspect rear diff., viscous coupler, front diff. (for leaks, damage)
- check rubber CV joint boots for tearing/cracking

ENGINE
- compression test all six cylinders
- perform a leakdown test on all six
- check serial number – should begin with “61V” (1996) or "61T" (1997)
- check distributor, coil(s), plug wires for visible damage
- check engine tray (if installed) for oil deposits
- check for all fuses/relays (match w/ diagram on box cover)
- check valve covers, timing chain covers for leaks

WARNING LIGHTS
– all come on with key on, extinguish upon start
- make sure CEL not tripped (check OBDII to rule out removed bulb)
-check LCDdisplay on OBC for full functionality

CLIMATE
- A/C blows cold
- heat blows hot
- all climate control functions work (buttons/switches functioning)

STEERING
- check steering rack for leaks
- check rubber boots for tearing or cracking
- inspect p/s pump for leakage

OIL LEAKS
- check under engine
- timing chain covers
- lower valve covers
- smoke on start?
- smoke once warm?

MISC
- tool kit present
- jack present
- air compressor present
- door locking (from all switches and remote)
- alarm
- number of key fobs

LIGHTS
- driving lights
- head lights
- tail lights
- 3rd brake light
- fog lights
- interior
- trunk/engine lid lights
- glove box
- all turn indicators, including hazards

BODY
- check for rust, especially near bottom corners of windshield seal and around seals
- remove headlights, check forimpact damage/paint work/metal work
- any signs of impact damage
- check for even gaps either side of hood, trunk
- ensure engine bay stickers
- ensure sticker under luggage compartment (trunk) lid
- level “turbo” badge
- inspect for rolled fenders
- if possible – paint thickness meter?
- check for repainting/overspray around plastic, in door jams, etc.
- trunk
- look for corrosion (beneath fuel tank, brake reservoir, around bolts)
- check under spare wheel for rust, ensure drains OK
- look at ABS/ABD control unit for corrosion
- inspect for paint damage beneath hydraulic components
- check for small cracks in front bumper (should exist on 11yo car)
- install tow hook – should thread evenly and straight
- check taillight (condensation)
- remove rear bumper (front also if not too time consuming), check for repaint/metal repair underneath
- check seals (pour water down leading edge of doors, sunroof)
- check door for missing, clicking, loose straps/stops

INTERIOR
- check condition of vinyl/plastic/fabric
- check function of electric, heated seats
- power windows (ensure every switch works)
- test front wipers at all speeds (including delay)
- check windshield and headlight sprayers
- ensure function of rear wiper (if installed)
- defrost
- rear window, windshield, outside mirrors
- electric mirror controls work
- check AM/FM/CD/tape(?) for function
- check clock for function
- ensure sunroof opens, closes

 

Thanks for posting that. If I use an indy shop, I'll be sure to email that to them. I forgot to mention in my original post, this is an automatic transmission. Does that change anything I should be looking for?

 

I've flown to a dealership a few times in the past to get a car. Prior to that I had done what has been noted above on PPI and talking to the mechanic.

My logic on flying to get the car was that I wanted to see the car and the cost of the flight, a night or two at a motel on the way home plus the cost of gas was going to be about the same as shipping the car, maybe less. If when I looked at the car I didn't like it or found another issue that axed the deal I was out a ticket. I could still look around the area if there were other possibilities and then return home. Only once did I not come back with the car I had intended to purchase. And that actually worked out great. As soon as I got back from the trip a dealer that had the car I really wanted called to tell me the deal fell through and I was first in line. I picked up the car the next day, a gorgeous 94 3.6 turbo.

However, buying sight unseen can work. I believe pissedpuppy purchased car without personally seeing it. Maybe he will chime in on this. It depends on the dealer and the salesperson.

Good luck with your hunt.

 

Thanks everyone for all of the great advice. So, I've been in contact with The Auto Gallery. I'm planning on getting a PPI using the full CPO checklist with CPO criteria and also a DME scan. I'm planning on waiting for the results of the DME scan before deciding on if I should get leakdown and compression tests. Does this seem like a good plan for a 2007 C2 tiptronic with 39k miles? Or should I get the leakdown and compression tests regardless of the DME scan results?

 

thelou, I live in Sherman Oaks. Where are you buying the car from? I would recommend The Auto Gallery since that is where I get my car serviced, but mainly for convenience.

 

Hey ///MJFDDS, I'm buying the car from Sports Trend Auto. Any chance you'd want to check it out for me ? Thanks for the recommendation for The Auto Gallery, I've decided to go with them for the PPI and DME scan. They quoted me $360 which seems about right.

I'm going to hold off on the leakdown and compression tests for the time being until I see what the DME shows. They quoted me $720 for the leakdown and compression tests . Is that normal?

 

you may want to do some searches on Sports Trend Auto. When I was conducting my search (recently concluded) I came across their ads a lot, and the prices are always very attractive, but I found enough negative reviews that after a bit I chose to ignore cars from that source.

 

I actually bought my car from Sports Trend with great hesitation because of many bad reviews that I read, but it was the exact car I wanted and they are only 5 minutes from me. I had the car checked by a Porsche dealer and an independent shop and both places checked out the car as super clean so I went through with the deal. This was about 3 1/2 years ago. I know they moved recently though. I could probably look at the car for you, but I'm not sure that would do you much good since I am no expert in scoping out cars.

 

I have it scheduled for inspection for later this week. So, no need to check it out for me but I definitely appreciate it. I plan to fly out to see/drive the car myself as soon as the inspection is done if everything is clean.

 

IslandS62, I ran across some of those same negative reviews you mentioned. I appreciate the heads up about it. I'm definitely trying to do my due diligence. So far things are going well. Inspection is scheduled for later this week. I'll be sure to let everyone know how it all works out.

 

I hope it checks out clean for you and you get a good deal on an "unmolested" one. Hopefully the bad ones are the exception there and not the rule.