It is only a problem if you are running them in the wet, otherwise it is not a problem.

 

The guys at AIM at Sears Point have shared some updated info I thought worthy of repost. For the record I've been running NT01/NT55RII for the last year, first set of 888s going on Monday for a weekend at Laguna Seca aloong with JRZ RS 600/750

[repost from www.aimtire.com]

The R-888 with the stiffer sidewall and softer undertread construction requires a bit less initial camber settings and WE BELIEVE increased (over the Ra-1) starting and 'HOT' tire pressures to provide a longer lasting and more consistent experience.

====================================== TOYO MOTORSPORTS - CANADA SUGGESTIONS:

VEHICLE WEIGHT.............STARTING PRESS...........HOT
_____less than 1776 lbs.......... 17-22psi........... 22-29psi
_________1776-2220 lbs.......... 20-26psi........... 24-32psi
_________2220-3109 lbs.......... 23-27psi........... 28-40psi
_________over 3109 lbs.......... 27-35psi........... 37-42psi

The correct initial (Cold or starting) air pressure is critical to achieve an optimum contact patch shape. Optimum starting pressures are determined by the TRACK, EVENT DISTANCE, CHASSIS TYPE AND SETUP, CHASSIS WEIGHT and DRIVING STYLE. So, the above pressure chart is RECOMMENDATIONS ONLY!

** Canada finds an increase in pressure from starting to hot of 10-12 lbs acceptable. Howeveer, it has been our experience that if the pressure should increase more than 10 lbs from start to hot one should start with a higher pressure. We've found that a 8 to 10 lb. increase from starting to hot pressure is best.

 

akirasan,
You were running NT01/NT55RII ?
After researching tire sizes and overall diameters, I understand why you were doing that. NT01 fronts, NT55RII's rear.
So, how did that work out for you?
I've thought about doing that, but you did the experimenting first. So, again, how did that work out for you? Maybe not so well, if you are going to change to R888's?
Would like to benefit from your knowledge gained.

 

The NT01/NT444RII combo works great for me - I typically get 6-8 days out of a set, fronts usually have another day or two in them over the rears. I did flip the fronts inside out after 4 days for balance. For me they were happiest around 36-38 hot. I happened to find a deal on the R888s just as my current Nittos were going away so I thought I'd give them a try. Off to Laguna Seca this weekend with all new stuff - R888s, JRZs and full RSS hard bits along with lots of camber (-2.8/-2.5) and caster (9.1) - so it should be fun.

 

This is a great conversation. Let's keep it alive. I am off to the track this weekend and next week (Watkins Glen) with new suspension (Moton Club Sports) RSS hard bits, and much more aggressive camber than in the past (was -1.0) Now ...

Front: Camber -3.2, Caster 6 degrees, Toe -0.02, ride height 4.5", 550lb springs
Rear: Camber -2.5, Toe +0.2, ride height 5.0", 850lb springs

I am been running Toyo R888s 245/315 R18s, but am trying the NT01s in the same size as my suspension guy says they are pretty comparable, but he likes the NT01s better because their peak performance time flatter (meaning they heat up quickly and stay at peak longer than the R88s before overheating and getting greasy).

I am going to try them at the same hot temps I run the R888s which is 36 Front and 40 rear.

Be safe, go fast

 

[joe731 - you're lucky since you 996 folk can run NT01 F&R. We 997 guys, and particularly us AWD guys are kinda stuck due to the 4% requirement]

I'm sprung a little different - after talking with the folks at JRZ NA about car setup I wound up with 600/750. I've heard and read about the R888s behavior -after everything's said and done it seems to come down to "It depends..." I love the Nittos because they do come up quickly and hold for most of a session (depending on track temps 15-20 minutes), communicate well with nice gradual recoverable slope if you start experimenting with large slip angles.