Outstanding polish/wax for your Porsche
#31
09-06-2011 | 03:45 PM
I'm far from a detailing expert, but I have done my due diligence and educated myself on many of the basics of car detailing. As for 'Porsche' specific wax, or any paint product for that matter, this is a bunch of hooey. I have admittedly succumbed to this marketing nonsense and purchased a rather expensive tub of wax 'specifically formulated for Porsche paint'. 
Any expert will tell you that above all else is the importance of paint preparation before applying the LSP. No wax or sealant can adequately substitute for a proper wash, clay, and single or multi-step machine polish.
As for Zymol 'removing' swirl marks, unless this is an abrasive liquid applied with a rotary or DA orbital machine (not hand), what this stuff is likely doing is just filling in the defects in the clear rather than actually removing them. This is fine as long as you don't expect the effect to have any longevity.
Any expert will tell you that above all else is the importance of paint preparation before applying the LSP. No wax or sealant can adequately substitute for a proper wash, clay, and single or multi-step machine polish.
As for Zymol 'removing' swirl marks, unless this is an abrasive liquid applied with a rotary or DA orbital machine (not hand), what this stuff is likely doing is just filling in the defects in the clear rather than actually removing them. This is fine as long as you don't expect the effect to have any longevity.
Great advice and you hit the nail on the head. Zymol is a great product, but there's no "specific" wax for a specific car. The reason being, what happens after a repaint. Even though it's a porsche, the paint may be different than the factory. Good marketing on Zymol's part.
As for zymol hd-cleans or cleaner wax removing swirls, not going to happen. They're too gentle and are designed to be used by hand. They're merely filling the swirls, and that's what it's suppose to do. Nothing wrong with that if that's what you want to achieve.
For true polishes that remove, check out Menzerna polishes and you'll need a polisher to use them.
Lots of mis-information out there, but this is as good of a place as any to put myths to rest and focus on proper technique and having fun datailing.
#32
09-06-2011 | 03:47 PM
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Story behind this picture. My 7yr old son built a GT3 RS lego kit and wanted to daddy to buy the real car. So I took him to see the car they had in the showroom at a local dealership. He wanted a pic of his car against the real one. I love the GT3 RS, but its most likely not practical for the way I use my C4S.
#33
09-06-2011 | 03:47 PM
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I'm so proud....this is what happens when you spend lots of time on the detailing forum
Great advice and you hit the nail on the head. Zymol is a great product, but there's no "specific" wax for a specific car. The reason being, what happens after a repaint. Even though it's a porsche, the paint may be different than the factory. Good marketing on Zymol's part.
As for zymol hd-cleans or cleaner wax removing swirls, not going to happen. They're too gentle and are designed to be used by hand. They're merely filling the swirls, and that's what it's suppose to do. Nothing wrong with that if that's what you want to achieve.
For true polishes that remove, check out Menzerna polishes and you'll need a polisher to use them.
Lots of mis-information out there, but this is as good of a place as any to put myths to rest and focus on proper technique and having fun datailing.
Great advice and you hit the nail on the head. Zymol is a great product, but there's no "specific" wax for a specific car. The reason being, what happens after a repaint. Even though it's a porsche, the paint may be different than the factory. Good marketing on Zymol's part.
As for zymol hd-cleans or cleaner wax removing swirls, not going to happen. They're too gentle and are designed to be used by hand. They're merely filling the swirls, and that's what it's suppose to do. Nothing wrong with that if that's what you want to achieve.
For true polishes that remove, check out Menzerna polishes and you'll need a polisher to use them.
Lots of mis-information out there, but this is as good of a place as any to put myths to rest and focus on proper technique and having fun datailing.
#34
09-06-2011 | 08:17 PM
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HD Cleanse is a great product but it should be used for its intended purpose. After polishing is complete, use HD Cleanse (by hand) to remove all polish residue. It will leave the surface extremely clean and optimized for the last step wax or sealant.
#36
09-06-2011 | 10:38 PM
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Texas
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I'm so proud....this is what happens when you spend lots of time on the detailing forum
Great advice and you hit the nail on the head. Zymol is a great product, but there's no "specific" wax for a specific car. The reason being, what happens after a repaint. Even though it's a porsche, the paint may be different than the factory. Good marketing on Zymol's part.
As for zymol hd-cleans or cleaner wax removing swirls, not going to happen. They're too gentle and are designed to be used by hand. They're merely filling the swirls, and that's what it's suppose to do. Nothing wrong with that if that's what you want to achieve.
For true polishes that remove, check out Menzerna polishes and you'll need a polisher to use them.
Lots of mis-information out there, but this is as good of a place as any to put myths to rest and focus on proper technique and having fun datailing.
Great advice and you hit the nail on the head. Zymol is a great product, but there's no "specific" wax for a specific car. The reason being, what happens after a repaint. Even though it's a porsche, the paint may be different than the factory. Good marketing on Zymol's part.
As for zymol hd-cleans or cleaner wax removing swirls, not going to happen. They're too gentle and are designed to be used by hand. They're merely filling the swirls, and that's what it's suppose to do. Nothing wrong with that if that's what you want to achieve.
For true polishes that remove, check out Menzerna polishes and you'll need a polisher to use them.
Lots of mis-information out there, but this is as good of a place as any to put myths to rest and focus on proper technique and having fun datailing.
#37
09-07-2011 | 09:13 AM
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Bonehead...you are dead on. I agree with all that you wrote. The clay bars are the best for preparing paint that already looks good. BTW If you want to see how much dirt is imbedded in clear coat take a plastic Ziploc bag over you hand and feel the paint. You'll be shocked at how much dirt you feel imbedded in the paint. The clay bar will remove all this dirt and leave your clear coat clean for the wax. Test with the bag after the clay bar and you'll see. The only time you need to wheel the paint is if you do have small scratches visible to your eye. Note: If you do have these scratches it means that you've been lazy and you're taking your car through the car wash. Stop doing this IDIOT JK 
I've used the Meguiar's Tech Wax 2.0 and Carnauba Wax. I sort of like the Tech Wax because the Carnauba seems to build up over time and get on your rubber parts and it's hard to get this chalky film off your rubber parts. If you're very careful with the Carnauba then it is believed to be the best protection for your paint. I also like the Meguiar's Quick Wax after I hand wash the car. I've used the Zymol and it is good stuff too.
I've used the Meguiar's Tech Wax 2.0 and Carnauba Wax. I sort of like the Tech Wax because the Carnauba seems to build up over time and get on your rubber parts and it's hard to get this chalky film off your rubber parts. If you're very careful with the Carnauba then it is believed to be the best protection for your paint. I also like the Meguiar's Quick Wax after I hand wash the car. I've used the Zymol and it is good stuff too.
#38
09-07-2011 | 08:22 PM
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I agree that a orbital buffer is needed to do a proper wax application. I do that as well.
My comments where about HD Cleanse, which is used between washing and waxing.
I've been using it for many, many years and I'm thrilled with its results. Now, I grant you............I don't know whats in it, or how it's made. I just know I like the result it produces.
My comments where about HD Cleanse, which is used between washing and waxing.
I've been using it for many, many years and I'm thrilled with its results. Now, I grant you............I don't know whats in it, or how it's made. I just know I like the result it produces.
#40
09-07-2011 | 10:37 PM
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I like Zaino too. What do you mean by "meh"
Thanks!
#41
09-07-2011 | 10:41 PM
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The Flex is a dual-action buffer http://www.autogeek.net/flex-orbital-polisher.html, which is probably the best out there in it's class. Will not correct like a rotary, but much safer for novices (like us).
SIP and P085RD are polishes by menzerna http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-of-germany.html. You usually start out with a more abrasive polish followed by a less abrasive one. The more abrasive one will get out swirls and the final polish really gives it a nice shine. Likewise LC refers to lake county pads http://www.autogeek.net/lakecountry.html. Different pads have different cutting ability.
I use to spend 300 bucks/year on a detail. It always looked great for a month and then looked average again. Never understood why until I started detailing myself. What most places do is they put a glaze down to cover up the scratches and swirls, so as the wax wears off, you see the same defects as before. With the right equipment, you can do a much better detail than most shops.
Call Moe, he'll set you up.
BTW, I think "meh" means it doesn't really work
SIP and P085RD are polishes by menzerna http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-of-germany.html. You usually start out with a more abrasive polish followed by a less abrasive one. The more abrasive one will get out swirls and the final polish really gives it a nice shine. Likewise LC refers to lake county pads http://www.autogeek.net/lakecountry.html. Different pads have different cutting ability.
I use to spend 300 bucks/year on a detail. It always looked great for a month and then looked average again. Never understood why until I started detailing myself. What most places do is they put a glaze down to cover up the scratches and swirls, so as the wax wears off, you see the same defects as before. With the right equipment, you can do a much better detail than most shops.
Call Moe, he'll set you up.
BTW, I think "meh" means it doesn't really work
Last edited by seattle_sun; 09-07-2011 at 10:47 PM.
#42
09-07-2011 | 10:47 PM
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From: Denver, CO
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The Flex is a dual-action buffer http://www.autogeek.net/flex-orbital-polisher.html, which is probably the best out there in it's class. Will not correct like a rotary, but much safer for novices (like us).
SIP and P085RD are polishes by menzerna http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-of-germany.html. You usually start out with a more abrasive polish followed by a less abrasive one. The more abrasive one will get out swirls and the final polish really gives it a nice shine. Likewise LC refers to lake county pads http://www.autogeek.net/lakecountry.html. Different pads have different cutting ability.
I use to spend 300 bucks/year on a detail. It always looked great for a month and then looked average again. Never understood why until I started detailing myself. What most places do is they put a glaze down to cover up the scratches and swirls, so as the wax wears off, you see the same defects as before. With the right equipment, you can do a much better detail than most shops.
SIP and P085RD are polishes by menzerna http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-of-germany.html. You usually start out with a more abrasive polish followed by a less abrasive one. The more abrasive one will get out swirls and the final polish really gives it a nice shine. Likewise LC refers to lake county pads http://www.autogeek.net/lakecountry.html. Different pads have different cutting ability.
I use to spend 300 bucks/year on a detail. It always looked great for a month and then looked average again. Never understood why until I started detailing myself. What most places do is they put a glaze down to cover up the scratches and swirls, so as the wax wears off, you see the same defects as before. With the right equipment, you can do a much better detail than most shops.
#43
09-07-2011 | 10:50 PM
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http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-De...ishing/#polish
#44
09-07-2011 | 11:01 PM
http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...sh-Kits/Detail
The flex da is the easiest tool that packs an amazing amount of power. It's very safe and the results will impress you.
We'll email you a how-to pdf once you place your order. You can also just give me a call and I'll walk you though the whole process...
#45
09-07-2011 | 11:04 PM
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It's not hard, but, like anything, you'll need a little practice.
Lots of videos on youtube and I think Griot's has video. First wash your car and follow with a claying.
When you polish, do a small area at a time (like 2x2 ft or so) and don't use too much polish. You need the Flex to break down the polish to work. When the polish breaks down, you'll see that the polish will "flash" or turn clearer.
Also tons of info on Autogeek.net and on the detailing section here.
BTW, great kit by Moe and he ships fast!