Ok after a few track days and a auto-X it was time to change out the front rotors and pads. This last weekend at Hallett my brake sensor light came on, it was at the end of the day so seemed like a good time to call it a day. When I started the car back up to drive it home, the light was off? then while driving down the hwy it came on again, then after stoping and restarting it was off?? so today I changed out the rotors and pads. It appears that the sensors ground out on the rotor but there was enough pad that they didn't stay grounded. so I left them in and just changed out the rotors and pads. wasn't too bad had to take the post off the old rotor and re-install on the new rotors (center locks) that was the only slow down from a normal change out. So after a couple of hours and a couple of cups of coffee all is good!!

 

I going to change ou my front rotors after my next DE. I have CL's too....what is the torque spec on those red drive pins on the rotors?

 

Atomic, how many miles did you get out of the rotors & pads?

I've done 1 track day and 40,000 miles so far. I guess I'm not driving it hard enough

 

I didn't torque them, I really wasn't ready for that part, didn't know those were attached to the rotor. After checking noticed that Suncoast sells the hardware kits and suggest that they be replaced with the rotors? I would bet that specs would be in the hardware kit. Looks like I will order a couple of kits and change them out, as for now I don't see why old ones would not work.

 

you got more miles out of yours than I did, I have a little of 7500 miles on the car.

 

Atomic so you bought the rotors with the red drive pins already installed?

 

No they were not installed, I took them off the old rotors and installed on the new ones. They have a kit that has the new pins, I didn't order it, didn't know I needed to until I was in the middle of the change out.
The only car I had, that had center locks on it, was a formula ford and the pins were on the hub not the rotors. The pads were bad enough I didn't want to wait to order a set, I just re-installed the old ones,( 5 months old). The next set of rotors I think I will order the pins also. Should be next summer though, with the track shutting down til March.

 

Yeah you'll be fine using the old pins....what I was asking was what was the torque spec you used when you tightened the old pins onto your new rotors?

 

didn't torque them down just tightened them up to what felt good, didn't have any reference to any torque specs? sorry no info I was not able to find any info on torque, maybe something in the kit ?? They were not all that tight when I took them off. sorry that I am not that much help on the torque specs. maybe someone else knows what they should be torqued to?

 

This thread discusses what the GT3 (center lock) guys are following in terms of torque specs.

You guys with centerlocks need to get your centerlock nuts torqued!!!

 

maybe I missed it, but the only thing I found was about the center lock nut it self? We were trying to figure out the torque of the 5 lug/post pieces that bolt to the rotor, that the wheel goes over before you put the centerlock nut on, which holds the wheel on (that takes 444lbs of torque). I might have missed it in the GT3 thread?? thanks thou!!

 

Sorry about that. Did a quick search and found this write up.

Rotor Replacement - vividracing

 

wow thats pretty quick.

 

Thanks for trying but those are not the bolts (caliper bolts) I'm asking about. Plus the caliper bolts torque to 63ft lbs...not 55 like that article mentions.

On Center Lock 997.2 GT cars the rotor has 5 red drive pins screwed to the rotor...it is these short nub drive pins that you replace with rotor changes I'm asking about.
I need a workshop manual...lol