WOW! ROTtec 997.1 DRL LED's
#16
Thanks! I am not staying in the US (no Home Depot as well). As such, I request for a picture, so that I can show it to the folks here in Singapore. Appreciate if you can send me a pic if it is not too troublesome.
#19
You only have 2 choices: 1-Splice the module into the OEM wiring per the instructions I provided, this way you get true DRL function but your foglights still work as OEM foglights when you turn that switch on. 2-Wire the DRL module direct to the lower row of LED's/foglight position. This will give you DRL function but you will lose normal foglight operation.
If you use T taps you arent damagimg the wiring so if you ever want to remove the hook it can be done in 5 minutes.
If you use T taps you arent damagimg the wiring so if you ever want to remove the hook it can be done in 5 minutes.
#20
You can also replace your halolgen foglight bulbs with the blue/HID look LED bulbs for very little money for a different look. If you use the LED bulbs the 3a fuse in the module works OK.
#21
I used the smaller red connectors, because it appeared to me that the wire gauge was more like 18 ga than 14 ga. But blue will likely work too. Most auto supply stores, like PEP boys, carry all kinds of connectors for autos.
#22
Dectane DRL Module
Firstly, thanks to TT2911 (Ray send a hat to TT2911), the instructions to install the DRL module were very helpfull. Note that the wires on the module are (very thin) 20 gauge wires. When you tap from the DRL module to the car's fog light wire, thoese wires are 18 guage. I used the RED T tap connectors. The various available colors of the connectors indicate the relevent guage of wire they are designed to connect. I tapped into the original fog light wires, in case I need need to replace the ROTtec DRL's back to the orignal lights, I can easly remove the Dectane DRL module.
#23
Did you have to use extra wires like TT2911?
Firstly, thanks to TT2911 (Ray send a hat to TT2911), the instructions to install the DRL module were very helpfull. Note that the wires on the module are (very thin) 20 gauge wires. When you tap from the DRL module to the car's fog light wire, thoese wires are 18 guage. I used the RED T tap connectors. The various available colors of the connectors indicate the relevent guage of wire they are designed to connect. I tapped into the original fog light wires, in case I need need to replace the ROTtec DRL's back to the orignal lights, I can easly remove the Dectane DRL module.
#24
You only have 2 choices: 1-Splice the module into the OEM wiring per the instructions I provided, this way you get true DRL function but your foglights still work as OEM foglights when you turn that switch on. 2-Wire the DRL module direct to the lower row of LED's/foglight position. This will give you DRL function but you will lose normal foglight operation.
If you use T taps you arent damagimg the wiring so if you ever want to remove the hook it can be done in 5 minutes.
If you use T taps you arent damagimg the wiring so if you ever want to remove the hook it can be done in 5 minutes.
I did some research on the internet and was able to find the H8 male/female wiring harness (which is for the fog light).
Unfortunately, I am unable to find the W5W wiring harness (which is for the park light).
Would appreciate if anyone could point me to a source which sell such a wiring harness.
#25
Yes, an extra 2 feet per side was required. I obtained 2 wire 18 gauge and a 3 wire 18 gauge wire (the extra wire from the module for the orange 'lamp' wire that gets connected to the park lamp) for the extensions. I used heat shrink butt connectors and then ran them through 1/4" flexible conduit. I don't want to run the risk of a wire rubbing through due to vibration.
#27
Good tip, thanks!
Yes, an extra 2 feet per side was required. I obtained 2 wire 18 gauge and a 3 wire 18 gauge wire (the extra wire from the module for the orange 'lamp' wire that gets connected to the park lamp) for the extensions. I used heat shrink butt connectors and then ran them through 1/4" flexible conduit. I don't want to run the risk of a wire rubbing through due to vibration.
#28
I received my DRL today and installed it!!!
All lights (fog, park, turn) are working. However, I received a 'check front left light' warning error. Sigh!!!
In addition, I noticed that the LEFT park light turns 'on' for a while (approx. 10sec) whenever I lock/unlock the car. The Right side light remains 'off' all this while.
I have informed Ray on this problem and is waiting for his resolution.
All lights (fog, park, turn) are working. However, I received a 'check front left light' warning error. Sigh!!!
In addition, I noticed that the LEFT park light turns 'on' for a while (approx. 10sec) whenever I lock/unlock the car. The Right side light remains 'off' all this while.
I have informed Ray on this problem and is waiting for his resolution.
#29
I am thinking of not tapping directly on the factory wiring. Instead, I am considering a wiring harness containing both the male and female connector. This wiring harness will connect in between the factory wiring and the light connector. The DRL Module wiring will then tap on the wiring harness instead.
I did some research on the internet and was able to find the H8 male/female wiring harness (which is for the fog light).
Unfortunately, I am unable to find the W5W wiring harness (which is for the park light).
Would appreciate if anyone could point me to a source which sell such a wiring harness.
I did some research on the internet and was able to find the H8 male/female wiring harness (which is for the fog light).
Unfortunately, I am unable to find the W5W wiring harness (which is for the park light).
Would appreciate if anyone could point me to a source which sell such a wiring harness.
#30
I thought about that but it requires a fair amount of work and cost to source those items; then you have the concern that the more connections points you have the greater the chance of a bad connection; you also have to be concerned about how much space there is behind the lamp unit to accommodate all of those bulky connectors. In the end it was just easier to use inexpensive T tap connectors. Very reliable, cheap, easy to use, done.