Yeah but I can save 200$ in labor taking the bumper off my self and installing it. My deductible is 250, so, I'd basically be putting a collision on my insurance record for 150$. Meh.

 

Our insurance wouldn't effect your future costs on something like this.

 

Decided to go the insurance route, they pay me 350, and I just pay no deductible by doing the bumper labor myself. Lol.

Anyways, on another subject, my next project will be the alternator cable replacement. I get it in the mail tomorrow, but I won't be able to have a day off work for another 8 days or so. I didn't notice any how-tos on the board on doing this, are there any? If not, I'll go ahead and make a comprehensive one.

 

Love the thorough chronicle. Keep it up!

 

BELOW: the actual cable, new, OEM. I attached it as a thumbnail, allowing me to upload a larger sized image than just linking the photo gallery.

 

Real quick, how to replace the cup holders above your glove box. Basically you use a 4mm allen wrench and unbolt it by opening the glove box and unscrewing two bolts on the underside.


ABOVE: The new cup holders. Notice how they have no door covers. You have to re-use your old ones, or buy them separate.


ABOVE: Only tool you need. 4mm Allen wrench, and 10 minutes.


ABOVE: My messy glove box, ignore the wires. Just open the glove box, and you can access the two bolts holding the cup holder in.


ABOVE: Picture of the leftmost bolt holding in the cup holder, ignore the coffee on the central console, lol. 4mm.


ABOVE: The leftmost bolt. Use a 4mm allen wrench


ABOVE: Note how the bolt was holding it in. Also, take note of the gap between the bar hinge and the silver covers. Pull on the edge of the silver cover to remove it off your old cup holders. Pull from the bottom, upwards along the door of the cupholder to remove. Make sure not to pull on the black door it is clipped on to as well, or you'll pull for days.


ABOVE: First cover removed.


ABOVE: I know this is hard to make sense of in the picture, but note the top of the cover, on the back, it has a lip. Put the covers back on in reverse by "hooking" the top of the cover onto the cup holder door, and then clicking the bottom of the cover into place on the hinge rod. You'll understand when you have it in your hand I hope.


That's it. :P

 

When you pulled out the stock PCM and swapped it for an aftermarket radio, what does your center dash gauge show in the bottom section? If my factory PCM is off I see "---" and if it is on, I see the station and the song title.

I've always wondered what happens in this spot with an aftermarket system. I also wonder if you lose the ability to show the mileage left on the tank, and trip odometer settings. I had just assumed all of these are run out of the PCM itself, but that might no make 100% sense since the odometer has to run off of the main computer in the car.

 

This is great! I guess I have to hear another P-car start to know if my 06 has the issue. I must admit that it isn't the most "peppy" engine turn over when I turn the ignition key. I have a brand new Deka battery and it certainly starts predictably, but not what I'm accustomed to. I had attributed the slightly labored turn-over to the boxer configuration of which I've never owned before. Any video's out there on a proper start ?

 

Equinox,

Your posts are amazing. I've actually just purchased the same vehicle and have the same issue with the cable. Can you please do me a massive favor and post step-by-step (Pictures) when you change this cable. It's be extremely appreciated.

Thanks

 

Any dealer or Porsche experienced independent mechanic can perform a simple voltage drop test to determine if you do have an issue with your alternator cable. Consider doing that before you go to the expense of replacing the cable.

Mine was tested and found to be OK though it doesn't spin as fast as some cars do when starting. But it always starts reliably.

 

Hey, I like your thread! Please post some tips when you get to the frunk button replacement. Mine is also broken and haven't gotten around to fixing it. Mostly because I'm afraid of breaking the sill or something. It's not entirely obvious to me how it comes apart.

 

Terpsred - RE: Removing PCM

The center gauge in your gauge cluster in front of the driver has a small screen the car manual labels as "Computer Screen" as opposed to the PCM. Like you said, the computer screen displays radio info, which mine did as well. Upon remove the PCM, I noticed my readout turned into "---". Playing with the computer control stalk on the left of the steering wheel revealed that I could change the options in the menu to default to other information instead of my now defunct radio station choice. I was able to choose from "Mls->Tank" and "Mls/gal" or something to that effect. Either way, I was able to change my default display into miles left in the tank, and the information I can change through in the bottom I leave as MPG. I did retain these abilities. Also, to my relief, when you turn on the ignition, it will still be able to check your oil level and display it for you.

The question I have in mind is, was I ever able to view my tire pressure in each tire with the PCM? I didn't notice the computer screen until after I removed the radio, so although I can't select displaying tire pressure, I wonder. was I ever able too? The manual mentions the ability, but I don't know if my car can.

911CSLover - RE: Start-up

When I say weak start, I mean that sometimes the car won't even fire up because the starter is so weak. I have to turn off all electronics in the car, wait a moment, and start the labored ignition again, and it will finally fire up. This is usually only if I turn the car off, and immediately try to start it back on again. E.g. getting the mail from our neighborhood mailbox. This isn't just a slight annoyance of weak starting, it's embarrassing.

MBENZF1 - RE: DIY Cable

I have to admit, my thread so far has been rather lacking in the detail I wanted to give (e.g. radio install) because since I got the car, I have been working 12 hour shifts, with no days off. In fact, my cup holder how to above was done in the parking lot at work with my phone, lol. Blah blah sob story, I'll make sure to detail as much as I can about the replacement, because I have seen zero DIY on it. I have found Porsche's service manual showing how to remove the alternator as well as the starter, and I'm going to go from there, to assist me in getting in the area. I may end up dropping the motor, I hope not. Apparently there is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) out that shows you how to replace it, man would I like to get my hands on it. I only have TSBs from 2005.

TT2911 - RE: Voltage Drop Test

See my reply to 911CS. Besides, I have no idea what service was done to my car before me, so I plan on fixing any well known faults before they become more of an issue. Like I said, the battery is brand new, and checks out voltage-wise, voltage to lights and accessories are fine, and I'll do a drop test on the starter before I replace the cable to compare.

solidst8 - RE: Trunk switch

Will do!

 

It has become obvious to me I need to replace my Air Oil Separator as well, given the amount of white smoke I push out on start up, and a intermittent squeal from the engine area; both signs of AOS failure. The last straw came today when I checked my oil level and saw it was a freakin half quart down from a few weeks ago. Not cool.

AOS already ordered from DC Auto, should ship today (Wed) or Thurs.

 

Equinox,

I was told by my mechanic that the TSB is the same for replacing this cable on the 05 & 06. He did mention dropping the engine, which sounds ridiculous to me. Currently I don't have an issue on start-up, I have a brand new battery, but the car did go through a PPI and it was determined that this was on the way out. Figured if you were going to do this, lots of photo's would help me tremendously.

Thanks again,

 

My story on the cable. Had the symptoms: New battery, ultra slow crank after car was driven and a stop and go situation... getting gas or a fast errand... car started right away in the morning after being sitting all night. Got the appointment at the dealership and authorized the repair ($1900). Dealer called back. The battery had a dead cell. replaced battery. happily ever after. Check the voltage drop at the connection with the starter and generator before attempting. and if indeed is the cable, i will upgrade to the 997.2 version...