I would not be so sure. I read about K&N air filters being used in Porsche engines with not so good results. Nothing wrong with OEM.

 

I completed my first oil change following these instructions!

I was able to get most of the stuff from Pelican Parts, with free shipping, since I ordered extras. Pelican Parts even had the Porsche Filter Wrench. (Although I had to pay shipping for that part, the delivery was lightning fast).

Pelican Parts...
* Mahle-Knecht Engine Oil Filter Kit (996-107-225-53-M67) at $11.00
* Porsche Oil Filter Wrench (000-721-920-40-OEM) at $39.00
* LN Engineering Magnetic Drain Plug (900-219-009-30-M835) at $25.25
* Fischer & Plath Drain Plug Seal (900-123-106-30-M131) at $0.25

The other stuff, I picked up from my local Walmart. Note that you have to ask for the 0W-40 Mobil 1 at the Auto Service counter, since they keep it in a storage room and not on the shelves.

Walmart...
* 0W-40 Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil at $6.47/quart
* Rhino Gear 10 qt. Oil Drain Pan (don't remember the $)
* Rhino Gear 12 qt. Oil Disposal Can (don't remember the $)

na011 suggestion of NOT lifting the car was Brilliant!! If you slide a cardboard beneath the car, you can lie down and reach the drain plug and filter housing from the back of the car. One challenge I faced was that the oil drain pan ksdprasad suggested was too high, and I could not fit my tools between it and the car. I ended up using a large disposable aluminum baking pan to collect the oil. (However, pouring the collected oil from this tin pan into the 12 qt. disposal/recycle can got pretty messy, so in the future I'll pick up one of those open plastic drain pans with a lower profile and pouring spout).

To get a slower less-messy and less-splattery flow, I initially left the engine oil filler cap sealed. I removed the oil plug first and let this drain until intermittent drops fell from the opening. Then I unscrewed the filter housing using the Porsche tool. This was not as messy as I expected; having the car so close to the ground really helps control the splatter. Remember to keep the housing steady since there's about a cup of oil in there! (It may look like a cup of black coffee, but don't drink it! ) Finally I opened the oil filler cap in the engine bay to let any remaining oil drain out.

After wrapping the new rubber filter ring seal (included with the filter) around the filter housing, I lubricated it with clean oil. When you insert the fresh filter into the filter housing, you have to gently press it in so it is level with the housing's opening. I poured a little oil into the filter housing before screwing it back in. Keep it steady, and it will screw in easily by hand once the threads catch. Wear surgical gloves to keep your hands clean, and you can feel where the filter and the drain plug need to be reinstalled.

The owner's manual says my '08 S requires 9 quarts of oil. In the end, this was exactly what I needed to get a reading of just one bar short of the max on the oil check readout. (From other threads, I learned that the oil readout should not be at the max level).

First I pured in 8 quarts; I checked the engine oil level and the computer reported that it was full. Then I fired up the engine for a few minutes while I checked for leaks under the car. I turned the car off and let it sit for about an hour. I came back and rechecked the engine oil level, but now it read a few bars lower than before. (Obviously, some of the new oil was now distributed throughout the engine). I added one extra quart, for a total of 9 quarts, as per the owner's manual.

These are just a few of my personal experiences and tips as a newbie, following ksdprasad's excellent step-by-step instructions, photos, and parts list. ksdprasad's instructions and na011's suggestion to not-jack-up the car, made my first 911 oil change really easy and safe, so I'm giving rep points to both of you! I'll be replacing the cabin and engine air filters next, and I'll just need a Durametric to turn off the "Service Now" message .

 

PSPORSCHE
Here is a good source for cabin air filters; http://www.autohausaz.com/
Last fall I bought 4 cabin air filters, 2 for the Porsche & 2 for the Benz & w/ shipping the total cost was $66.22.

 

You need a special wrench to change remove the oil filter, doesn't seem like it from the pictures of the filter casing. Do you have a picture?

 

I found an oil filter wrench that fits at the local auto supply store. It is a fairly standard size. I picked up 2 and found the one with the correct # of flutes (Flat sides) and it fits on fine. There are a few threads on it in this board.

 

I personally used an adjustable wrench to get it off. Didn't know they made a special one.

 

There are 14 flat spots on the inside of the wrench. There is a place on the outside to put on a socket (27mm ?) so you can use your torque wrench to properly torque the filter canister. Remember that thing is plastic.

http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...7S_Maintenance

 

just look for 14 flutes in your local auto store and that will fit. BTW, it is same as mercedes oil filter wrench.

for 6 bucks you get one in your local auto shop. see below.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Oil-Filter-Wrench-End-Cap-Lisle_25981273-P_N3401A_T|GRP2082_____

 

-SOLD-


http://www.suncoastparts.com/product..._Code=997maint

 

If you go with one of those Chinese plastic or metal filter wrenches the ID measurement on the indent (not flat spot to flat spot) is 76mm. So you don't have to make a second trip to the store bring along a metric ruler so you can double check that the ID is 76mm.
Also the filter canister is to be torqued to 19 ft. lbs.

 

I didn't want to risk using a cheaper oil filter wrench and have it warp itself or damage the filter housing as I tried to open the filter. You end up with the oil already drained, but you can't get the filter off, or you can't get the filter back on, because your wrench expanded the first time you used it. (I had a bad experience once, and your car sits for a day or two, un-drivable, until you remedy the problem).

The OP suggested this filter wrench from the local auto parts store.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...7CGRP2082_____

But I ordered the exact fit higher quality Porsche part from Pelican parts, and it actually arrived in a couple of days (all the way from the west coast to east coast). Considering this is a tool I plan on using regularly, I thought it was worth it.

 

my 997.1 911S will not take more than 8.3 Qts if I want to get a reading on the idiot guage, and I drain for an hour while on a lift. At least for me, 9 qts is and always has been an overfill.

 

Is your car flat when you drain the oil? I drained my oil without lifting the back of the car, so it was on a flat surface. Also, although the dash display showed that the oil was full after adding 8 quarts, I had to let the car sit for a while before it showed that it was under filled by a few bars. (I think each bar corresponds to about 1/4 of a quart). The owners manual also says it takes 9 quarts.

 

yes flat, I have a drive on hydraulic lift, and yes, the owners manual say 9 Qts.; that's why I posted that mine is pegged at all bars if I put in 8.5 qts., and since mine is burning no oil it would remain there until I changed it again at 3-3500 miles. 9qts also messes up the so called oil pressure guage.

 

Did you pour some fresh oil into the filter housing before screwing it back on? My 9 quarts includes about 1/4 bottle of oil I had poured into the housing. I think some amount of oil is always in there and may not get incorporated into the dashboard reading???? (Just grabbing at straws here).

Also, was your oil warm or cold before you drained it? I drove my car before I changed the oil, and let it cool down just a little (so I wouldn't burn myself). I figured warm oil flows better. May be that made the difference? (Again, just grabbing at straws).

Nevertheless, I'm sure 8.3 qt. is fine, if that is what your car is telling you it needs. But I understand your concern, since we all like to be very precise with these "hobby" cars.