997 2005-2012 911 C2, C2S, C4, C4S, GTS, Targa and Cabriolet Model Discussion.

$2 DRL solution for fog lights

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  #166  
Old 04-19-2012, 07:19 AM
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ok, here you go. this is probably a best solution for this thing.
you take apart connector, it is easy. take out both wires, all wires will remain in the original positions. then you insert diod into wire pins - it actually locks pretty well into them and does not move. then you insert pins back into connector. diod`s cathode sits in the 'home' wire pin so it allows current to go into ground from 'fogs' pin when you have switch in 'home' position but in the original position wires are insulated like if nothing has been done.
will see now how this works, but it should be fine from all i understand.
and it is easier to do than to use a wire tap, in fact.
diod i used is a 50V-1A from radioshack. do not get 12V one, get 50V. costs $1.20.

after you insert it into connector - test it, then wrap it with electric tape and insert back into connector outer shell, then put it in and it should be fine with no drains.
at least i will be able to tell about it in 3-4 days as i just did it. but i cannot imagine how it could drain anything this way as having a diod there is same as not to have anything between wires at all.
 
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Last edited by utkinpol; 04-19-2012 at 07:22 AM.
  #167  
Old 04-19-2012, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by TT2911
Do a test for us: Remove the hack and charge your battery up but don't change anything else. See if removing the hack really solves the issue or if you have something else going on.

Seems like a lot of guys have done the hack w/o issues and others have problems. Maybe we need a list of car models/years with or w/o a problem to see if it is model/year related. Maybe it does cause a minor current drain and it just highlights those that have weaker batteries.
i really recommend to do this 'hack' with a diod, do not put a wire tap.
diod way is simpler and should be safer, you can only insert it one way to make it work.
 
  #168  
Old 04-19-2012, 07:54 AM
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What do we have to look for on the diode to know which way we should insert it? (It's better to get it right the first time!).
 
  #169  
Old 04-19-2012, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by utkinpol
ok, here you go. this is probably a best solution for this thing.
you take apart connector, it is easy. take out both wires, all wires will remain in the original positions. then you insert diod into wire pins - it actually locks pretty well into them and does not move. then you insert pins back into connector. diod`s cathode sits in the 'home' wire pin so it allows current to go into ground from 'fogs' pin when you have switch in 'home' position but in the original position wires are insulated like if nothing has been done.
will see now how this works, but it should be fine from all i understand.
and it is easier to do than to use a wire tap, in fact.
diod i used is a 50V-1A from radioshack. do not get 12V one, get 50V. costs $1.20.

after you insert it into connector - test it, then wrap it with electric tape and insert back into connector outer shell, then put it in and it should be fine with no drains.
at least i will be able to tell about it in 3-4 days as i just did it. but i cannot imagine how it could drain anything this way as having a diod there is same as not to have anything between wires at all.

Thanks Utkinpol... can you take a clearer picture?
 
  #170  
Old 04-19-2012, 11:20 AM
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Thanks for your work on this!
 
  #171  
Old 04-19-2012, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by PSPorsche
What do we have to look for on the diode to know which way we should insert it? (It's better to get it right the first time!).
The diode is about 1/4" in length & the wires coming out of each side are 1'' long. The cathode side of the diode has a silver color band around the diode. The picture of the Radio Shack plastic wrapper shows it as a line around the one end of the diode.


http://www.radioshack.com/product/po...ductId=2036268

or:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=2036268#
 
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  #172  
Old 04-19-2012, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by utkinpol
ok, here you go. this is probably a best solution for this thing.
you take apart connector, it is easy. take out both wires, all wires will remain in the original positions. then you insert diod into wire pins - it actually locks pretty well into them and does not move. then you insert pins back into connector. diod`s cathode sits in the 'home' wire pin so it allows current to go into ground from 'fogs' pin when you have switch in 'home' position but in the original position wires are insulated like if nothing has been done.
will see now how this works, but it should be fine from all i understand.
and it is easier to do than to use a wire tap, in fact.
diod i used is a 50V-1A from radioshack. do not get 12V one, get 50V. costs $1.20.

after you insert it into connector - test it, then wrap it with electric tape and insert back into connector outer shell, then put it in and it should be fine with no drains.
at least i will be able to tell about it in 3-4 days as i just did it. but i cannot imagine how it could drain anything this way as having a diod there is same as not to have anything between wires at all.
utkinpol,
Is this the correct set up?
 
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  #173  
Old 04-19-2012, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TT2911
Do a test for us: Remove the hack and charge your battery up but don't change anything else. See if removing the hack really solves the issue or if you have something else going on.

Seems like a lot of guys have done the hack w/o issues and others have problems. Maybe we need a list of car models/years with or w/o a problem to see if it is model/year related. Maybe it does cause a minor current drain and it just highlights those that have weaker batteries.
The hack does not work on my '06 987 with PCM. It drains the battery, and fast. Read the full test and analysis I did here:
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...og-lights.html
Post #22

JM
 
  #174  
Old 04-19-2012, 05:09 PM
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Guys, I am sorry about crappy pictures, I just always have my blackberry in the pocket and did not have time to search for a proper camera.
1N4001 I think is a diod I used. Cathode end gets inserted into 'home' wire pin, other leg goes into 'fog' A5 wire pin. 'A5' is a position in the connector, furthest left on the picture. Not sure what to add, it is all easier to do than to explain.
 
  #175  
Old 04-19-2012, 05:56 PM
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It works! Thanks utkinpol! Cheapest mod ever! $1.19! I've got a spare diode too!!!
 

Last edited by raddray; 04-19-2012 at 06:39 PM.
  #176  
Old 04-20-2012, 12:36 AM
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great! cant wait to try this.
 
  #177  
Old 04-20-2012, 01:02 PM
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Even though I have not had any battery problems, I did the Utkinpol II Hack at lunch time today.
Thank you again Utkinpol.
 
  #178  
Old 04-22-2012, 09:57 PM
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Guys... okay I finally found the symptom that some of you may have been experiencing regarding the battery drain. It's intermittent for sure. Today, I drove my car to the store (light in home mode), stopped and parked it. And as I was leaving the car, the dash said the parking light was on. I played around with the light switch, turning on/off the car, until the warning light was gone... Until someone figures it out, I just need to be careful, making sure every time I get out of the car that the warning light doesn't come on...
 
  #179  
Old 04-23-2012, 11:51 AM
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I have not had an issue with the wire taps, but I will switch over to the diode. Could you not just push the diode ends into the connecter instead of removing the wires first? Or is it too tight of a fit with the wires in place?
 
  #180  
Old 04-23-2012, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ///MJFDDS
I have not had an issue with the wire taps, but I will switch over to the diode. Could you not just push the diode ends into the connecter instead of removing the wires first? Or is it too tight of a fit with the wires in place?
I tried pushing the diode wires into the slot without removing the wires. The wires did not go in very far & came out easily. I removed the wires completely inserted the diode wires & pushed back in the factory wires & everything snapped into place. To remove the wires have a pin handy so you can push in the metal tab on the factory wire end. You will need to do this twice as you pull out the wire because it will catch at the second opening of the wire block.
See post #166 second picture for the "wire block" & the openings.
 

Last edited by na011; 04-23-2012 at 01:47 PM.


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