I completely agree with changing the RMS with the clutch. Like posted above, it's a wearable item, like the water pump with the belt. I did mine in sync at 50K, worth the effort. But cracking the block to get at the IMS is cost prohibitive, with his milage, he runs the car enough not to worry about it. Garage queen's and vehicle's not brought up to temperature suffer from IMS failure. I had a length conversation with a Chemical engineer on this topic, his advice, whenever you start the car, let it idle until it comes up to temp. About 3-5 minutes, you'll prolong the life of your vehicle. Since the oil we use is 0-40, it means that our engine have a heard time getting up to temp, otherwise you'd use 10-40/45, meaning the engines runs very dry when first started, rev it hard, BOOM!

 

Do NOT let engine idle til "up to temp". Drive off and mind your revs. Engine and fluids reach running temps much faster under light load then idling. The quicker the oil is at operating temp the less wear and tear on the motor. You have full oil pressure almost immediately. Just keep revs down until fully warm as they always say.

 

Would mind sharing with us what all is getting done and at what cost?
Good for us to compare with our local indy/dealers

 

The repairs included:

Replacing the clutch and flywheel (and the associated hardware), oil change, brake fluid flush and new wipers. The total was ~$5,575. I remember the flyhwheel itself was ~$1,500. I don't remember the break down of the other service.

As for letting the car get to operating temp before I drive, I usually let it sit 30 seconds to 1 minute before setting off. I do not drive with any verve until the oil temp is ~ 200 and water temp is 175.

 

Sorry, I should have been more clear. I idle the car until the rev's drop below 1K and the ECU changes from start rev's (1200/1300) to operating revs. It usually takes about 2 minutes, usually the oil temp gauge moves a little bit and I drove off, keeping revs low.

I'm just offering the advice as was shared by a chemical engineer.

 

I am getting my clutch and RMS replaced right now, literally 5 minutes ago they called to quote me a price. ~$1,850 for my 2006 C2. If the flywheel is bad, they said that would be extra, but only about $1,000 more.

Pelican sells LWFWs for like $900. So $1500 for a flywheel sounds quite high?

 

That was the "book" price for the part ($1,500). Then there is the "book" labor rate too. I am not sure if the "book" is regonally adjusted however, here on Long Island we pay more for just about everything.

 

Chances are the LWFW is not a dual mass flywheel like the OE part. Therefore it should be quite a bit cheaper.

 

I am not sure about the RMS being a service or wear item needing regular replacement. If that were the case you would see leaking seals on high milage cars. More often than not it is the low milage cars that leak. Also they seem to tend to fail early in their life as if installation and tolerances are more often the problem not wear. I would advise to leave it alone unless it is leaking. While I see the value of doing it during other work, you could replace a good seal and find yourself with a leak for your trouble.

 

Yes that makes better sense mechanically but I think in normal weather conditions you probably just need for oil pressure to be up. I do confess that around freezing or below I wait just a bit. I find on the road that the engine reaches 180-190+ oil temp surprisingly quickly under gentle load. It can sit for 20 minutes idling and all you get is contaminated oil, air pollution and wasted gas. It is good fun to listen to the warm up though