Well after doing the $2 DRL hack, I have a dead battery. Battery is dated 12/08, so it's has a few years. Before the hack the battery had a really strong voltage reading, I remember my mechanic thinking the battery was new it charged up so much. I'm charging it right now but at this point I think I need to break down and buy a new one.

So to the point, I jumped online and searched for the Walmart battery, however every store within 100 miles doesn't carry the Everstart Maxx-94R??? Does anyone know if they changed model numbers?!? Next buy is Autozone Duramax for $150, for $75 at Walmart, I'll break my rule and set foot into the store.

And before you guys chime in, it was fun having to jump the car with the fuse box to get the trunk to release I was also dumb enough to put the key in the ignition (Second nature)

For those that don't know, if you have a dead battery and put the key in, you won't get it out!

 

Does Walmart carry the battery in other locations? Walmart will ship to a store in your area at no charge.
Maybe if they still carry it they can ship it to your location...
Stranger things have happened...

 

I tried searching "California" and "New York"... only to get, "Product not found"

 

You can fit 3 sizes. Get the one with the highest CCA and reserved power ratings.

H6 (48) MTP-H6 10-15/16 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top
H7 (94R) MTP-H7 12-3/8 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top
H8 (49) MTP-H8 13-15/16 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top

 

Interstate MTP91 is another great alternative

 

AHH PERFECT!! Thanks djantlive, I kept searching for 94R, I knew they must have changed their model designation. H7 is exactly what I was looking for and Instock!

 

Thanks for the help on this. Wife's 06 C4S starting to crank slow, I'll never hear the end if she gets stuck, plus I'm sure she'll pay to get it airlifted back home.

Got the H7 at the local Walmart for $109.99 with exchange.

 

check water levels and if needed refill with distilled water first. Then recharge. my battery is original on my 06 and working like a charm. Gotta keep on top of water levels.

 

Size, thanks for the note.

Long story short, I went to pull the battery, saw that the existing was a "interstate" date coded 4/11 (I bought this porsche 8/11 after some 20 yr old girl rear ended me on the freeway and totalled our 07 C2 cab) I called to get a warranty claim, took it in local to a Midas shop, turned out we had the wrong (undersized) batttery. They swapped me the correct model for $58.00 including tax and install. (Their's listed for $179.00) Took the walmart back, while waiting for the superviosr told woman clerk their battery is recommeded on the porsche club and they have the best prices on mobil 1 15/50, walmart recommeded by the viper club. She appreciated the info.

 

"Get the one with the highest CCA and reserved power ratings."

...or the cheapest. They will all work equally well
(your advice is the wisest. mine is 2nd wisest, I mean)

 

The bigger they are the heavier they are and the more they cost (typically)
I'd say, you need the one that's just the right size. Hauling around extra lead plates that provide extra buffer of amps over and above the needed amount the starter needs to crank the engine seems a bit wasteful. Extra capacity would allow the battery to do better under shorter trips - as there remains some unused capacity above and beyond the smaller batteries.

Now for a car that is sitting in very cold conditions at night where cranking the engine does literally take more power than an average engine, there I'd go for the biggest that it takes.

 

and don't shut the hood when battery is disconnected or out of car....

 

I don't know that battery sizing is an exact science. Like everything else, batteries are much better now than 10 or even 5 years ago. It seems that batteries are as much marketing as function. Built-in warranty costs are proportional to the purchase price and the length of the warranty. The more expensive and longer warranty increase the purchase price. In that way the standard unit which is manufactured to a high standard is only marginally less "good" than the premium unit which is built to a slightly higher, or even the same standard. In fact there are "lifetime" warranted batteries for motorcycles. Indications are that it is the same battery as the next lower price battery, made in the same factory, with a different label and double the purchase price to cover the warranty costs.

What's my point? Marketing not the product drives the battery market. There are only 3 battery manufacturers with the same basic products marketed under at least 100 different labels. Imagine if there were only 3 car manufacturers with 100 badges. Marketing and technology change with time. My used 996 came with the 94r size. When I replaced it, the major national chain application charts specified the 48 series. Now, 5 years later the 94r/H7 is specified again, by 8 sources and one source specified that same 94r or the 49 series. Adding to my confusion the H6, H7, H8 designation is not standardized. Which of the 3 is "proper"? And why? The 48 series that I purchased over 5 years ago was only 690 vs the OEM 740 CCA, yet it apparently worked well even though I abused it by storing it discharged for months at a time. I read that Marketing relies on customer confusion because the average customer gets frustrated by the vast array of products and thus makes his purchase decision based on the Chivas Regal syndrome and the current time of day, i.e. spending more money than necessary, sooner than later. So I think "which is proper" has no answer, as they all work equally well, except in extreme circumstances, circumstances that luxury sports cars rarely experience, Porsche spy and marketing photos showing cars in subfreezing weather and snow-covered roads, aside.


People like me will research a topic to death. Thus, after reading a trade publication that explained that higher capacity batteries last longer because they are discharged less, I decided that I would opt for the highest CCA because longevity was my priority, not because high CCA is my priority. Hmmm??? Lowest price too, because higher price is no guarantee, especially if the warranty is the same.

Looking at conventional batteries, I noticed that Pepboys has the most expensive AGM and least expensive non-agm. Further, the biggest H8 cost the same as the smaller H6. What does that prove about the cost of lead/antimony and plastic and how marketing determines purchase price? I had to manipulate the website to allow me to buy the size of my choice by putting 3 different cars in my virtual garage on the site.

2000 911 H6 (48) Bosch Premium * 40 lbs 760 CCA $140 OE CCA: 650
2005 911 H7 (94R) Bosch Platimum AGM 47 lbs 800 CCA $200 OE CCA: 740
2010 911 H8 (49) Bosch Platimum AGM 52 lbs 850 CCA $200 OE CCA: 740

2000 911 H6 (48) Bosch Premium * 39 lbs 690 CCA $114 OE CCA: 650
2005 911 H7 (94R) not available
2010 911 H8 (49) Bosch Premium 45 lbs 850 CCA $114 OE CCA: 740
* adding to the confusion the site lists two batteries with the same label with different cases and product numbers

So I got the H8 Bosch Premium, Lowest price, highest CCA, Medium weight

FYI 15% off $100 online purchase (code SPEED15), in January (sorry for the late notice)
10% off Bosch batteries, online (code BOSCH10)

 

You do know about the "hidden" manual release cable?

 

I bought a Wal-Mart H7 battery yesterday for $146.97. I discovered the car's vent tube is too large to fit into the vent port and I didn't have any adapters that would work properly. I took some fish tank tubing I had laying around from a previous project and figured out that it fits perfectly snug into the H7's vent port so I used a 2 inch sleeve of heat shrink to bond the two tubes together.