RPM per gear
#2
Keep it above 3000 rpm and below redline.
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#3
That's actually right. You don't want to lug the engine at too slow an RPM. The car has a rev limiter so you cannot rev too much while accelerating. Downshifting is where you have to be mindful. If you find yourself trying to figure out where you are shifting to, remember when the shifter is not in gear it will naturally fall between 3rd and 4th gear if you let it loose for a second. Play with it in your driveway while parked and it will become very apparent to you.
#4
Guideline I, and many friends, use with success is never shift above 4,000 RPM when not warmed up and never shift below 4,000 once warmed. As above, shifting between 4,000 and redline is perfect.
#6
What do you mean by clutch abuse? If you raise the clutch pedal smoothly and apply gas after the take up point, also smoothly, all is well.
#7
Ok, So we are on the same page. I had read recently on a thread within this forum that someone makes sure to up shift from 1st to 2nd at less than 2k RPM to avoid clutch abuse. Even i was not sure what that meant, so i thought i would ask the experts.
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#9
In day-to-day driving there's rarely a need to rev a 1st, but you can shift higher, just make sure your oil temp (not coolant) is at proper operating point.
#11
I try and cruise around 3k but will often drop a little below that. For a steady cruise I don't feel that I'm lugging the engine at that RPM. That doesn't mean I will accelerate at that low of an RPM but cruising on the highway is fine. I also don't see the need to cruise down a residential street at 5k in first extended periods of time. I think it's important to factor in load when talking about RPM's. Now, under acceleration, never above 4k when cold but once warm I usually shift anywhere between 5k & 7k. The torque curve really starts to come alive around 4500 so if you'll notice that when you take it up just below redline and shift up... you'll land right about 4500 in the higher gear.
#12
If I drive below 3000 rpm am I lugging my engine? Could you cite me some examples of engine lugging so I better understans your advice.
#13
What is the oil temperature gage running typically when keeping the RPM between 5k and redline? Mine tends to go up when running at higher RPM's. Somewhere around 200-225. How high can it go? Any concern with oil temp? No red zone on gage.
#14
Driving in 2nd, 3rd gear or 4th gear at 2500 RPM is different from driving in 5th or 6h gear at 2500 RPM.........I think.
I mean, if i drive at 3500 RPM in 2nd gear through my community, i would look like a colossal ******. In 3rd gear at 2500 RPM, i get smiles and nods.
#15
As a retired mechanical engineer, I have to laugh when folk on Porsche forums talk about lugging an engine when they have no idea what they're talking about. They are simply parroting things they've heard from others and really don't know or understand what they're talking about.
"Lugging the engine" is trying to pull a large load from few revs from which the engine labors hard to overcome. Pulling gently away from a stop at 700 revs is not lugging. Slow to 15 mph in 3rd or 4th, and try to accelerate hard at full throttle, approaches lugging. Try accelerating up a steep 10% grade in the mountains from 40mph in 6th, that's lugging. Try the same pulling a trailer and now you're really lugging. Lugging is when the engine struggles to pick up the load. It usually occurs due to a lack of available torque.
30 to 40 years ago when Porsches were powered by 2.0 to 2.7 liter engines with carbs, breaker point ignitions, running at speeds below 2500 to 3000 rpm could lug the engine. This was due to the fact that those engines couldn't produce enough torque to pickup and carry the load suddenly put upon it. Today with computer controlled fuel injection, ignition timing, variable cam timing and lift, Porsche engines produce so much torque at low speeds that it is VERY difficult to get in a lug condition.
Now if you want to drive around at 3000 rpm or above at all times because it makes the engine respond faster, fine. But don't delude yourself you're doing it to prolong engine life by avoiding lugging. You're actually wearing the rings and liners faster and burning more fuel.
You guys need to spend a few thousand miles in a diesel rig to really appreciate lugging.
"Lugging the engine" is trying to pull a large load from few revs from which the engine labors hard to overcome. Pulling gently away from a stop at 700 revs is not lugging. Slow to 15 mph in 3rd or 4th, and try to accelerate hard at full throttle, approaches lugging. Try accelerating up a steep 10% grade in the mountains from 40mph in 6th, that's lugging. Try the same pulling a trailer and now you're really lugging. Lugging is when the engine struggles to pick up the load. It usually occurs due to a lack of available torque.
30 to 40 years ago when Porsches were powered by 2.0 to 2.7 liter engines with carbs, breaker point ignitions, running at speeds below 2500 to 3000 rpm could lug the engine. This was due to the fact that those engines couldn't produce enough torque to pickup and carry the load suddenly put upon it. Today with computer controlled fuel injection, ignition timing, variable cam timing and lift, Porsche engines produce so much torque at low speeds that it is VERY difficult to get in a lug condition.
Now if you want to drive around at 3000 rpm or above at all times because it makes the engine respond faster, fine. But don't delude yourself you're doing it to prolong engine life by avoiding lugging. You're actually wearing the rings and liners faster and burning more fuel.
You guys need to spend a few thousand miles in a diesel rig to really appreciate lugging.