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Intermittent non start

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Old 03-31-2013 | 06:04 PM
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Intermittent non start

Hello All
New Porsche owner, I just purchased a 2007 carrera S with 10k miles and 1 original owner, the car is immaculate. That being said I have been experiencing an intermittent issue where the car won't start. I have read thru the owners manual and am following the starting instructions of:
Depressing the brake
Depressing clutch and putting car into neutral
Turning key to the right (start position)
Sometimes the car starts immediately, sometimes it takes up to 3 or 4 tries, do the seatbelts need to be on? Or is this that clutch switch issue I've seen threads on? Thanks
Mike
 
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Old 03-31-2013 | 06:34 PM
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Intermittent start issues could be anyting based on my experience. I guess we need more details (e.g., morning only, after it has warmed up, .....).

What I could tell you about my 2007 C4S was that it would sometimes refused to start also, but it turned out to be the battery. After a few months, it cranked and just gave me the clicking sound. The good thing was that I was able to push-start it, drove it home for 30 miles and into the garage.

Even though your starting issue could be anything, have your battery checked first --- assuming it's the original battery.

GL
 
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Old 03-31-2013 | 06:46 PM
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Thanks GL
While I've only owned the car for a week it's hard to nail a pattern down. I can say the battery was just replaced by the PO, it's just that it sounds awfully like what I've read on the clutch switch, I also got a 5yr/50,000 bumper to bumper warranty so it should cost little out of pocket. GL can you tell me your exact procedures for starting your car, I'm still in the process of reading the 2 manuals. By any chance is there a battery is the key that could be running low? Thanks
Mike
 
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Old 03-31-2013 | 07:08 PM
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The alternator cable might be the issue. This was the random no start/crankissue on my 06 C4S. Not the easiest part to replace, but it can be done.

Here is a link to the DIY.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...tor-cable.html
 
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Old 03-31-2013 | 07:27 PM
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Push and hold the clutch down, shift the lever to neutral, turn the key to start.

There is no magic to starting the car. As you also see, there could be various reasons with your start issue. Though you saidd tthe batter was new, the cheapest and easiest route at the moment would be to check our battery post for corrosion followed by a trickle charge.

You can always take it to the dealer since you have the warrranty. Note that the battery 'could' be covered by the warranty since you just bought the car. Battery warranty under CPO is not very long. So, if it's CPO, take it to the dealer (if you don't have a trickler charger).
 
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Old 03-31-2013 | 07:29 PM
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I have heard that in low mile garage queen cars, the coil packs will go bad if they are not regularly used.
 
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Old 03-31-2013 | 07:43 PM
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Thanks fattire
If it were the alt cable wouldn't that result in a battery draindown at some point, would it throw an error message. I believe the reason that the PO replaced the battery was that the car was just not driven and there was no trickle charger on it. The car was stored in a hangar along with his plane (life's tough). Anyways I think I will bring it in to the dealer since it's now under warranty and mention the 2 possibilities of bad clutch switch and bad alt cable. Thanks
Mike
 
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Old 03-31-2013 | 07:57 PM
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non start on random and not so random situations:

car starts fine in th morning but after warm up it takes. long crank to start: alternator cable or battery cell dead. replace battery first, try again, if persists, replace the alternator/starter cable.

slow crank in the morning: battery.

car takes a long time to start. cold or warm: ground strap near rear passenger tire, bad coils.

car takes loooooong cranks only after gas fill ups, with rough idle for 30 seconds after finally starting, rest of the time starts fine: vapor recirculation solenoid valve, next to the throttle body.

there you have it! 4 causes and the solutions.
hope this helps!
 
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Old 03-31-2013 | 08:57 PM
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Alternator cable i changed mine 06c2s fires up perfect. My old cable after a drive then shut off then turn on would crank funny. New cable problem solved.
 
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Old 03-31-2013 | 09:03 PM
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I had problems with my microswitch. It won't even crank if that's the issue.

I pulled out the connector, cleaned a bit and popped it back on. The problem went away for me.
 
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Old 03-31-2013 | 10:30 PM
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Thanks all, I think it might have something to do with trying to start the car when it has been unlocked for a period, because just earlier today I tried to start it and all power comes on radio etc etc, push in clutch put in neutral and nothing, no clicking like dead battery, so while in car I pull out key and hit lock button then unlock and then go thru the previous start up steps and it starts right up.
 
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Old 03-31-2013 | 10:32 PM
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Is the micro switch the same as the clutch switch I mentioned earlier? How did you clean it? Thanks
Mike
 
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Old 03-31-2013 | 10:35 PM
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Yes that's the one I was talking about. If you lie on the floor and look up near the clutch you should see it. I had to pull mine out when I removed the clutch assist spring. I just cleaned it off before re-attaching it.
 
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Old 03-31-2013 | 11:02 PM
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Clutch Interlock Switch

I had a similar-sounding problem on my 2012 997.2 and it was the Clutch Interlock Switch. My Car is a CPO so the dealer replaced in just a couple minutes while I waited - but I think the actual part only costs $40 or so and pretty simple to replace. I'd certainly have that checked - may be the same thing others have referred to as the microswitch. Good luck.
 
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Old 04-01-2013 | 11:04 PM
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Now I am finding the car will start every time if I carry out the following:
Unlock car and get in
Depress clutch and put trans in neutral
ONLY now do I put the key into ignition and turn to start position
IF I first put the key in and carry out the later steps the car doesn't start, does this make sense?
 


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