I don't think you understand what fair market value means. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fair_market_value
Then why are you offering upgrade packages (in this thread) with the exact speakers that ryem3 found and no amps?

6.25A @ 4 Ohms = 156.25 Watts. Just a few posts ago you claimed 10 watts. Which is it?

And in the last thread you refused to extend the warranty past 1 year when people were asking about tails failing 1-2 years out.

 

I don't know who you think the OP is, but I don't have a GT3. I'm the OP.

I'm not really going to touch anything else here. I don't know how someone "blew a tweeter", because only some high current feed would do that. If you disconnect the battery, as recommended, no way that is going to happen, in phase or out. Enough people have posted the correct phase of the Porsche wiring, so issues there are simple user error. If the amp is blown, that's another issue. Living with Porsche for a while now, I've not heard of any Bose amp issues. But if you short the speaker wires, you could blow a channel or worse.

Listening is believing. Anyone else that has done the conversion can chime in. The amp does not need to clip to produce high volumes. That simple. You can't be suggesting that adding Focal's "Integration" series (specifically intended to replace OEM drivers) is going to excessively stress a factory amp. I would rather question the logic of an upgrade that swaps out the head unit to pump more watts into the cheap, OEM Bose drivers. I'd rather wait and hear how many people will suffer blown speakers as a result of upgrading the head unit.

 

Disconnect your battery before working.... but safe as both leads, positive and negative are disconnected when off.

This is always a good idea. To be honest, I did not do this... I guess I am a bit of a risk taker. However in doing the work and trying to determine polarity of the cables, I found that turning the Bose system off and keeping the key out BREAKS BOTH POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE LEADS.

So, while I don't recommend leaving the battery connected, I feel very confident you wont do damage shorting the system while working on it.

How do I know? I discovered this while trying to determine the polarity using my multimeter. A trick is to shut your radio off and the check continuity between each lead to chassis ground (your meter will not actually complete the circuit so it is safe to do this). In the "old days", turning the radio off would break the positive but the negative was always grounded to chassis. So, your meter would beep when it could complete a circuit to ground.... this means you found the negative lead. The negative lead is grounded to chassis on the other end at the radio unit. When you touched your meter to the positive wire and then to chassis (door hinge bolt) it would not register as it was an open circuit.

When I tried this on my Bose system, I had the radio turned OFF and the key OUT. I got no continuity on either lead. This tells me the Bose system breaks each side of the circuit when off. In other words.... it is safe to work on the system without the battery disconnected. Again, I can't recommend this but... just sayin'.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

 

You came here and started telling stories about how this is blowing amps and such, and let's say your credibility hasn't been very good on this forum. You have a history of telling "colorful" stories about competing products in the name of making a sale.

The numbers you keep providing here don't make any sense.

Those numbers equal 100W @ 1 ohm and 156.25W @ 4 Ohms. So now you're saying it's 10x more powerful than you original said, and it's more efficient at 4 Ohms? The latter of which would actually make sense, but it's contrary to what you said previously.

 

Helix's website says those drivers are 4 Ohms, and that their 8" drivers are not full range (subs).

 

Thanks for the contribution. That could really be a good budget upgrade set. I'm sure you would agree that one shouldn't mix and match Helix with Focal here - it's all of one or the other.

The only other thought is that I specifically avoided installing a set with a separate crossover. As you had pointed out actually, you instantly introduce problems locating the crossover, issues with RF interference and other problems. The Focal's were great because the crossovers/filters are integrated into the speaker units. If you recommend these units, we'd need some guidance on how to deal with the crossover unit.

I believe most have used the 100 CVX 4" coaxes in the rear panels and the doors. Not sure if my link will work.

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...%20Forums&txt=

 

A very entertaining thread with useful info scattered in.

Ryem- Thanks for posting and sharing your journey and results. I'm pretty close to you and make it to White Plains monthly to visit clients. I'd love to meet and listen to your install one day.

The Bose in my CTTS is better than the Bose in my 997.2tt. I can live with the CTTS, but the 997 Bose has to go.

Has anyone tried the Jehnerts for the Porsche? They make a few different options. I've had good experience with their drivers in other cars:

http://en.jehnert.com/produkte-doorb...ite?lang=en_us

Also, for anyone looking for a lightweight compact amp, I've been running a pair of these in my C6 Z06 for 6 mos now. They drive 10" dynaudio midbasses in the doors, a pair of Micro-Precision full rangers, and a Helix 10" subwoofer without skipping a beat. They weigh less than 2 lbs each, and kick butt.

http://www.focal.com/en/amplifiers-a...2-fd-4350.html

 

Shane
I am located in North San Diego county.
I may be interested in testing your theory.
Please contact me at jbrusseau@newportnational.com and we can discuss further.
Thanks!

 

System is almost $1500. Looks very nice and a perfect fit, but hardly worth the price.
http://www.soundevo.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=6669

 

Providing others some quick reference. The little compact amp is $400. Plenty of offerings in this category, but potentially this works in tight spaces as a class D amp. I know JL Audio and Alpine also have some hot, tiny class D amps in this range. No heat from these either.

 

Alright, finally some time to maintain my thread!

Thanks for the suggestions.

I'm VERY curious about this one. Looks like a standard 4 ohm speaker set. Helix MS4C set. Nothing on their website about 1 ohm or Bose compatibility. This is a BMW set.
http://www.helixhifi.com/products/pr...211&p_tab_id=3

AND, you didn't address my other point about the crossover. How is the DIY guy going to install this? Seriously. The wires for the tweeter come out at the dash. The 4" door wires are in the door. Both of those wires need to go into the crossover, then back into the speakers. GREAT if you want to run new wires to the tweeters - presuming your leaving the crossover in the door. Where do you install the crossover? Please explain. A DIYer is not running new wiring. Most people's eyes glaze over when I tell them I pulled the door panels off my $100k car!!!

Here is another question, you sell the Focal IS200 kit and the 100 CVX's as "my" budget recommendation. Have you ever installed the set in a Porsche?

Keep the BUDGET recommendations coming!

 

Conrad, this might sound funny but my system seems to sound a lot better with what i have done so far; deactivate center speaker, replace front tweeters with focals and replace rear speakers with polyplanar. I guess it just removed a lot of the "noisy" mid and high end potion of the bose and cleaned it up a bit. Im realizing what you system indeed could provide. Iv kept the bass and door setup so my volume is still there. Maybe part of the sound improvement could also be the ability to change the eq settings through the ipod.

 

These speakers need break in time, which comes slowly in a car. You NEED to make the door conversion! It isn't that hard. You really need to pry hard to remove the panels, but even if you leave a mark, it will be far less noticeable than on the dash. Be sure to get the spacers in advance or plan a bunch of time to cut them and drill them. The difference with a set of real 8's in the doors is HUGE. I'm telling you, you won't regret it.

 

Rattle canned MDF ? Surely Porsche owners are worthy of better and with a smoother finish, no ?

No. Just no. All Match systems are designed for BMW, with exception to one, which is for a VW. Offering these as an option for a Porsche is just silly.

Why would you try to make a (consumer level) $1k pairing to 'try' on OE speakers ? There are a ton of other way to test such things, but as a professional you should already know the outcome.

 

Not quite that high, when purchased in the US, from the US.

Out of curiosity, where did you draw your conclusion about being 'worth it' ? I can only assume you have experience with the product and company ?