Best to swap it out with another Focal. Get a set off eBay.

 

That center speaker is more of a "full range" unit and not a tweeter. I do play 5.1s and I enjoy them so I want a more full range unit in there.

For example, there is a new 5.1 of Tull's Passion Play. I while playing it, I unplugged the center speaker and Anderson's voice almost completely cut out. They are using that as a true center channel at least for 5.1. So, I want the driver to be as full range as possible.

For stereo, Bose is sending some sort of fill to it, and it does sound better with it disconnected. Although you do have to move the balance forward as that thing isn't blasting anymore. But.... I need it for 5.1. Therefore, I just would like to attenuate it.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

 

True, but a tweeter will do just fine.

 

Anybody do any new installs?

 

ok I read through all the pages of this thread. PHEW!!!

I don't have my P car yet. I've got a deposit down on a Carrera GTS

In my other cars with Bose, the sound sucked because not only were the Bose system speakers crap quality, the amp had all sorts of weird equalization. I'm not sure why Bose does this, but I've never heard a system that sounded great with the stock Bose amp.

With PCM 3.0 what are the options as far as installing (and hiding) a decent class D multi-channel amp and completely taking the Bose amp out of the loop?

I want a totally factory stock looking system. So I'm not really interested in changing out the head unit. I want a clean sounding system with good bass. I don't need dual JL 12" subwoofer bass, just clean hard hitting bass that I can enjoy. I don't want a rear parcel shelf box either. I'd like everything hidden.

And btw, can someone summarize the "recommended" speaker parts for each of the channels in the car, including the center channel?

Thanks!

 

Glad you liked the thread. You will find all the drivers you need in the thread. Including pics sumarizing the installation tricks. For the bass, I got really remarkably good results by swapping out the Bose drivers in the rear shelf subwoofer.

The crazy thing is that all the talk of special eq from the Bose amp didn't make any sense to me and I have not seen any concrete measurements that support that. Substituting 4 ohm drivers yielded excellent results with very high volume levels - the stock Bose amp is quite adequate, as others will also attest. If you want to swap it out, the main problem is adapting the fiber optic output from the stock head unit. Others have reported this can be easily done with an adapter, but I would argue this is largely a waste of money. If you go whole hog with a new system, budget about $4k and I suspect it will sound a bit better than my budget system but it should! But you would need to add a big rear subwoofer for most of the difference and then you will have a big box sitting in the back.

For the center channel, the easiest solution is to use a tweeter matching the ones in the front. It will handle vocals fine and will perfectly match the voicing of the other speakers. That is one of the most important elements of building a nice sounding system.

 

Unless Bose builds them different for Porsche, all their other amps have weird EQ. But if you and others can't hear it, then I would think the best solution is to let sleeping dogs lie.

If the amp is 2 ohm capable, then a 4 ohm speaker will be an easy load for the amp, although at a somewhat lower output unless the replacement speaker is more efficient.

I'm not going to worry about frying the amp with a 4 ohm speaker. As someone stated in the thread (correctly) resistance varies with frequency response. So although a speaker may be nominally rated at 4 ohms, its resistance will vary over its frequency range.

I definitely don't want to spend $4k on the system. My car has PSE and I may do the Sharkwerks bypass, so all the beautiful noise from the exhaust will make the stereo somewhat irrelevant anyway.

If I can get this done for $1k (I'd probably just let a shop install the speakers) and get a good deal better sound, I'll be very happy.

BTW, I wonder if anyone has experimented with a self-powered Bazooka sub. A buddy of mine has an air cooled 911, and he has a quick disconnect for his Bazooka sub which sits in the footwell behind the driver's seat. It's totally invisible for all intents and purposes. Since most of us never use the rear seats except to fold them down for luggage, this would seem like an interesting way to get some extra bass.

 

Having "played " with car audio, forget about the bazooka -- unless you are going with a 12" bazooka which of course becomes too bulky.

"If" u r thinking about bazooka, just buy the BassLink.

IMO.



I wish that before I die, someone could miniaturize Martin Logans for cars.

 

I was thinking of a 10" Bazooka, but I should measure the rear footwell to be sure it fits. This thing claims to have a 200w class D amp.

They don't make a 12" AFAIK.

https://www.southernaudioservices.co...-Tube-P33.aspx

The BassLink is just too big. I'm NOT doing the ghetto thing and strapping it to the rear seat. Besides that area is designated for luggage.

 

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_204BT12...oofer&skipvs=T





IIRC, the BassLink might be big, but it is slimmer and kinda stealthy behind the back side of either the driver or passenger seat. But, whichever fits your style would be best.

GL.

 

Will a BassLink actually fit behind the driver's seat in the footwell?

 

Good question. Tomorrow, Let me yank it out of my '83SC and do a 997 trial fit for you.

 

Thanks! I appreciate it

 

Here are some pics. I am supplying a few more so you could see the orientation of driver and passenger seats relative to each other.

I haven't studied how to connect the BasLink so not much help there.

Btw, how wide and long is your future Bazooka?

 

I like my seats at an angle. If your seats aren't as angled as mine, you would have more "front leg room"