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This is the budget install thread, my friend! And yes, I hear you on the doing a $300 sound upgrade on a $100k car.
Indeed, so let's stay on topic. Even this budget install isn't a $300 upgrade.
Originally Posted by 14.4volts
My apologies, not trying to sound too stanch, I should simplify this a little.
The problem isnt as much in the speakers or amp as it is in the mapping of the audio it self.
Basically your left with what one engineer thinks sounds good, obviously that one engineer is the only one who thinks it sounds good.
collectivley reading through the responses most people have spent alot more then $300 on their upgrades, not to mention time.
You really could use just a summing agent (any of the ones ive listed) and an amp and be miles ahead.
The focals, the amount of power coming from the factory equipment isnt that much, your only changing the SQ by crossovers mainly and db/frequency response of those speakers.
The bose speakers may even perform better in those scenarios based on the fact they are paper cones that have a faster rise time, EQ'd properly and the fact that their sensitvity is greater then the focals, they are more efficent.
The point I am making, is that the budget is being spent more on a poor fix rather then spending a little more on the right fix.
You say budget, I see wasted money, please dont think I am being a dick, ive refused jobs based on these senarios.
I am just trying to give a professional opinion, if it where honda then everything would be different and alot less exspencive.
all of your options are shrouded by the car its self, ive always advised all of my clients (repeat audiophile) to get the absolute **** bottom system offered when buying/ordering their new cars.
Its inevitable they'll end up calling me at some point.
I hope nobody takes offence to my opinion or thinks that I am being a dick, I am just trying to be helpful.
Again something is better then nothing, everyone has their own taste, if just replacing the speakers does it for you then by all means do it!
Cheerz
Perhaps you could best be helpful by starting another thread and logging the install, along with the total costs. Overlooking all of the typos, the main suggestion here is that the budget upgrade is a waste of time and money and you need a minimum of $2000 to do it right. You're certainly entitled to your opinion, but perhaps some people don't want to spend $2000, even on their $100k cars (many of which have purchased used and spent no where close to $100k). And perhaps even rich members among us know the value of a buck and choose not to spend it on audio in a car that has wonderful engine noise and is just plain loud inside anyway.
Go to Rennlist and check out the guy's install thread in a 991 GT3. Mosconi amp, Dynaudio speakers, really great system. In a GT3. The parts alone were $8k and he installed it himself! Really outstanding thread. However, many would argue it is a huge waste of money in a GT3. Not to him and I'm sure it sounds fantastic.
I would also add that many things specific to the Porsche system have been discussed here and I question whether or not you've done an install in a 911. Many members here hesitate at the notion of removing the door panels. Few DIYers want to rewire speakers or run power to the back of the car. Just an Audison Bit One? For $1000? And a $500 amp? I believe the dash tweeters are wired with the midranges in the doors. How will you EQ those? Then how do you get the analog interface from the head unit to the Audison? $600 wiring harness? Seems like $2k and you have cheap Bose speakers and no sub or sub amp. You need a sub box for the new sub in the rear - $1k including a 10" driver. Without the amp. Gasongasoff has a great install in his car. Please post a DIY with your choice of components and show us how to do it! Spending $2-4k on a system didn't make sense for me.
Indeed, so let's stay on topic. Even this budget install isn't a $300 upgrade.
Perhaps you could best be helpful by starting another thread and logging the install, along with the total costs. Overlooking all of the typos, the main suggestion here is that the budget upgrade is a waste of time and money and you need a minimum of $2000 to do it right. You're certainly entitled to your opinion, but perhaps some people don't want to spend $2000, even on their $100k cars (many of which have purchased used and spent no where close to $100k). And perhaps even rich members among us know the value of a buck and choose not to spend it on audio in a car that has wonderful engine noise and is just plain loud inside anyway.
Go to Rennlist and check out the guy's install thread in a 991 GT3. Mosconi amp, Dynaudio speakers, really great system. In a GT3. The parts alone were $8k and he installed it himself! Really outstanding thread. However, many would argue it is a huge waste of money in a GT3. Not to him and I'm sure it sounds fantastic.
I would also add that many things specific to the Porsche system have been discussed here and I question whether or not you've done an install in a 911. Many members here hesitate at the notion of removing the door panels. Few DIYers want to rewire speakers or run power to the back of the car. Just an Audison Bit One? For $1000? And a $500 amp? I believe the dash tweeters are wired with the midranges in the doors. How will you EQ those? Then how do you get the analog interface from the head unit to the Audison? $600 wiring harness? Seems like $2k and you have cheap Bose speakers and no sub or sub amp. You need a sub box for the new sub in the rear - $1k including a 10" driver. Without the amp. Gasongasoff has a great install in his car. Please post a DIY with your choice of components and show us how to do it! Spending $2-4k on a system didn't make sense for me.
There isn't anything super special about taking a 911 apart, I've gutted them completely for dynamte and full builds, the 997 caymans, boxsters, rolls, Bentley, Ferrari, classics what ever.
Again, I am not a DIY guy, I am a professional installer.
I don't really care to make a thread for a car I don't own, once more for free advice.
A bit one can be had for $700 on Amazon, a bit 10d for less then $400
Any decent JL, alpine or RF digital amp $500 retail, so $900/$1200.
Slim fit sub like JL, RF or kenwood with pre fab box $300, $600 for a custom 5sided glass enclosure
$1500 to $1800.
Labor what ever your local shop charges, factory speakers intact.
Not a hard install, I think they actually make a p&p soultion this year but I am not for sure.
You can high level sum from the factory amp directly into a bit10d and output right back out from your aftermarket amp near same connection point, or Bi-amp if you feel like it.
I don't care, honestly just going old school and changing the crossover point For factory setup with some hand made caps is probably an improvement. (Kidding)
I am just trying to be helpful, I am over it now though. Good luck on your diy fixes.
Remember the budget for a row boat doesn't work on a cabin cruiser.
Ordered the 8" component and 4" coaxial focal speakers, as well as the new subs. Amazon had 1/2" 8" spacers for the doors. Not sure what I am doing for the rears, live in a condo so my fabrication options are limited.
Kellen I put in 3" polyplanars no mods needed just bolt on and connect. Your good to go.
Thanks. Ordered 2 sets of the 4" to put in the back. Was wondering about the install. Someone mentioned they used the original plate and some said it was flimsy. Ordered some 1/8" ABS from parts express with my new subwoofers, so I will try to craft something up.
This all started due to a blown drivers 8" speaker....
Thanks. Ordered 2 sets of the 4" to put in the back. Was wondering about the install. Someone mentioned they used the original plate and some said it was flimsy. Ordered some 1/8" ABS from parts express with my new subwoofers, so I will try to craft something up.
This all started due to a blown drivers 8" speaker....
Yep, it's flimsy. If you run the system before you install the rears, just be sure to disconnect them. No way will the 4" coax speakers mount to the factory plates. At least you can mount the rears from the front on a plate. The first time I removed the rear panels and that is quite a job!
Yep, it's flimsy. If you run the system before you install the rears, just be sure to disconnect them. No way will the 4" coax speakers mount to the factory plates. At least you can mount the rears from the front on a plate. The first time I removed the rear panels and that is quite a job!
Please post your results. Good luck!
So my plan is to use 1/2" MDF rings from amazon precut for the 8" Focal.
Then cut the tab for the front 4" focal coax
Cut out the tweeter surround for the front tweeter. Affix with what I have around the garage.
Rear 4" Focal coax will use the ABS I bought, hopefully to make it look like 997SChris' install.
Then just replace the OEM subs with the Daytons.
So my plan is to use 1/2" MDF rings from amazon precut for the 8" Focal.
Then cut the tab for the front 4" focal coax
Cut out the tweeter surround for the front tweeter. Affix with what I have around the garage.
Rear 4" Focal coax will use the ABS I bought, hopefully to make it look like 997SChris' install.
Then just replace the OEM subs with the Daytons.
Read the whole thread twice, thats my plan.
Good plan. Hope your MDF rings will work. They need to be big enough to use the holes from the existing speakers. Hardest part is to drill the holes in the spacers very straight or they won't line up with the holes in the doors.
You can also see pics of my ABS rear plates. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
So about 1/2 way through. Have to do it after work and live in a high rise condo, not the best way to do it.
I swapped out the rear subs last night. No issue. Straight forward, wouldn't change anything from this DIY. Takes an hour from start to finish.
Tonight I did the tweeters and took off one door. Tweeters were straight forward. Used an old credit card to pop the covers and just exchanged them with the cut down focals. Perfect fit.
Door came off as advertised through many online DIY's. Ryem you were right, I misunderstood the reason behind the spacers. I thought it was just to bring the door sub off the door. Didn't really see the shape of them until I took off the OEM subs and didn't realized they were mimicking the OEM spacers. So I improvised. The BOSE speakers are in a spacer themselves, just has an almost speaker like grill in the rear so only really shallow subs would mount. I removed the rear grill of the factory spacers with some wire cutters. Focal 8" sits on top of the OEM spacer perfectly. Will just use some foam between them. No need to buy spacers!
My goal with this was just to improve the sound quality, plus my drivers front 8" was blown making it difficult to listen to any music. Figured if I was going in to the door might as well update them all.
All done with the door replacements. Really just plug and play for the 4" as stated here. But the 8" I may have found an easier solution.
Regular Bose Speaker
Removing it from the factory spacer yields this:
Factory spacer. Precut....
Taking out the slats in the back gives you this:
Cut, mounted in the door.
Which can then be used to mount the 8" speaker to. I just put some foam tape to make a better seal and minimize any rattling.
Done,
Done.
Everything is tidied up, door skins hung. It all fits and sounds much better then the OEM Bose system. Now to tackle those rear speakers.
Did you happen to read my experience with this setup in this thread. I did what you tried reusing the factory mounts. I did exactly what you did. However, the door skins would not mount correctly. Don't get me wrong: it will still mount but I had a gap.
Perhaps your doors are differen from mine. If your door skins mount perfectly, then great.
Did you happen to read my experience with this setup in this thread. I did what you tried reusing the factory mounts. I did exactly what you did. However, the door skins would not mount correctly. Don't get me wrong: it will still mount but I had a gap.
Perhaps your doors are differen from mine. If your door skins mount perfectly, then great.
Mounted fine. I know this because some of those damn door fasteners didn't align perfectly. Crawled underneath to line them up and went in fine. Granted I was at the end of a long install and happy it all worked. But driving it for the past week or two I wouldn't know either way. Seems stock to me.
If someone sold the spacers or I could easily fabricate them, I would have done that instead. But living in a condo, without a jigsaw, made me improvise.
09-09-2015 | 08:59 PM
