My budget audio install updated 3/22/15
#781
What I like about these Utopia ones is the low frequency response of 36-1,500Hz range; everything else I found in a 5" or 5.25" size that would fit in the ported Bose enclosure was around 65-68 Hz at the low side of the range, which is really getting closer to mid-range and not a true subwoofer. Covering this low in the range with the subs, with with the 8" Focal woofers that will install in the doors, I should end up with a very well balanced system across the full audible spectrum (or at least as well as I can do preserving the OEM look to the interior).
Last edited by Petza914; 08-16-2017 at 10:15 PM.
#782
Great points. For an experiment, I may try this inexpensive option first. I can't justify $1k for subwoofers myself.
https://www.parts-express.com/peerle...-ohm--264-1604
woofersetc recommended this, but its not exactly a subwoofer
http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-spea...s-drivers.html
https://www.parts-express.com/peerle...-ohm--264-1604
woofersetc recommended this, but its not exactly a subwoofer
http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-spea...s-drivers.html
#783
I tried those exact replacements from Parts Express. Very underwhelmed by them. To the point I removed the sub entirely. Either too muddy or insufficient extension to be of any use. Just annoying that it was there and not very effective. I am torn between which combination of Focal speakers, Head unit, power amp to replace. Not sure if just doing only one will be sufficient for me.
If you do use them let us know what you think.
If you do use them let us know what you think.
#785
Did anyone not read my post on updates to Ryem3's setup? The SB Acoustics are a drop in for the subs and have a Fs of 38hz. Also I am using a Peerless 2.5" 8 ohm for my center channel. It sounds really good. The issue with using a tweeter as a center speaker is it rolls off very fast at the lower frequency. If I recall the tis1.5 drops off at 3000hz.
I tried those exact replacements from Parts Express. Very underwhelmed by them. To the point I removed the sub entirely. Either too muddy or insufficient extension to be of any use. Just annoying that it was there and not very effective. I am torn between which combination of Focal speakers, Head unit, power amp to replace. Not sure if just doing only one will be sufficient for me.
If you do use them let us know what you think.
If you do use them let us know what you think.
#786
I'll be interested to hear how those exotic subs work out. Seem like overkill with the tiny class d amp in the box. I would try florindi's option first.
To the other person that pulled the parts express speakers, many of these speakers need a fair amount of break in. And the problem with a car is that you can't leaves it run in overnight or longer! You've got to give them time to break in. The results for me were surprisingly good.
To the other person that pulled the parts express speakers, many of these speakers need a fair amount of break in. And the problem with a car is that you can't leaves it run in overnight or longer! You've got to give them time to break in. The results for me were surprisingly good.
#787
808 posts to go through is tough, Looks like the subwoofers that florindi recommends are sb15mfc30-4 found here
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.co...y-cone-woofer/
ryam3, please add speaker polarity to the first post. I've found this in the thread so far, which is probably accurate 99%
"all brown stripe wires are negative. Red stripe is positive"
"subwoofer's large spade negative"
Part number for door clips is 7L6 868 243
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.co...y-cone-woofer/
ryam3, please add speaker polarity to the first post. I've found this in the thread so far, which is probably accurate 99%
"all brown stripe wires are negative. Red stripe is positive"
"subwoofer's large spade negative"
Part number for door clips is 7L6 868 243
Last edited by 997TurboTom; 08-18-2017 at 07:39 AM.
#788
I'll be interested to hear how those exotic subs work out. Seem like overkill with the tiny class d amp in the box. I would try florindi's option first.
To the other person that pulled the parts express speakers, many of these speakers need a fair amount of break in. And the problem with a car is that you can't leaves it run in overnight or longer! You've got to give them time to break in. The results for me were surprisingly good.
To the other person that pulled the parts express speakers, many of these speakers need a fair amount of break in. And the problem with a car is that you can't leaves it run in overnight or longer! You've got to give them time to break in. The results for me were surprisingly good.
1 pair of outputs for the door midranges and dash tweeters, one pair of outputs for the 8" door woofers, and 1 pair of outputs for the coax rear side speakers.
Having not pulled the frunk plastic panels to actually see the amp, what I don't know is if the stock PCM 2.1 transmits it's signal to the OEM Bose amp in a traditional way where I can just use either existing low level or high speaker level inputs to the new amp and then use the speaker wire outputs from the OEM amp to the new amp or if I have to do something unique. Would appreciate input from anyone who has replaced the Bose amp but kept the stock PCM head unit. If using an aftermarket amp is too complicated or expensive, I'll just stick with changing out the speakers and keep the OEM amp, except in the back for the subs.
#789
Ah, you head down a slippery slope! The head unit is fiber optic connection to the amp. Running a different amp with the head unit requires a special harness, which was several hundred dollars if I recall correctly.
Adding a different amp for the subs will probably require a new power cable, since the stock one to the sub amp is is not very robust. That means you'd need to run power from the frunk all the way you the back. Some people don't find that intimidating, I consider such mods aPIA. All of these mods add to a better system, but the budget system really added a lot of benefit at a modest cost.
Adding a different amp for the subs will probably require a new power cable, since the stock one to the sub amp is is not very robust. That means you'd need to run power from the frunk all the way you the back. Some people don't find that intimidating, I consider such mods aPIA. All of these mods add to a better system, but the budget system really added a lot of benefit at a modest cost.
#790
Ah, you head down a slippery slope! The head unit is fiber optic connection to the amp. Running a different amp with the head unit requires a special harness, which was several hundred dollars if I recall correctly.
Adding a different amp for the subs will probably require a new power cable, since the stock one to the sub amp is is not very robust. That means you'd need to run power from the frunk all the way you the back. Some people don't find that intimidating, I consider such mods aPIA. All of these mods add to a better system, but the budget system really added a lot of benefit at a modest cost.
Adding a different amp for the subs will probably require a new power cable, since the stock one to the sub amp is is not very robust. That means you'd need to run power from the frunk all the way you the back. Some people don't find that intimidating, I consider such mods aPIA. All of these mods add to a better system, but the budget system really added a lot of benefit at a modest cost.
#791
Never heard of anyone doing that. There are some threads showing how to run power to the rear from the frunk. This gets you into the complex install category though! I would get power from the battery.
#793
OK, so now I'm thinking I'm going to keep this simpler and not pull the inner thresholds, carpets, etc to run proper gauge wire from the battery to the back of the car.
I'm going to downscale the amp choice for the rear Focal Utopia subs and go with an Alpine KTP-190U which puts out 60 Watts RMS @ 2 Ohms. This should let me drive the subs a little stronger than the existing Bose amp, which is probably more like a 25W or 40W RMS amp, and is well within the power range of the speakers, which are rated for 25-75 Watts RMS. I got nervous about using that larger Alpine Amp and potentially damaging these expensive subs.
So now I have my "medium budget audio install" thread.
I'm going to downscale the amp choice for the rear Focal Utopia subs and go with an Alpine KTP-190U which puts out 60 Watts RMS @ 2 Ohms. This should let me drive the subs a little stronger than the existing Bose amp, which is probably more like a 25W or 40W RMS amp, and is well within the power range of the speakers, which are rated for 25-75 Watts RMS. I got nervous about using that larger Alpine Amp and potentially damaging these expensive subs.
So now I have my "medium budget audio install" thread.
#794
The 5.25 sub will not fit obviously. (Sorry forgot to take pics)
Does anyone know if there is a good replacement ?
Replacing the center speaker with tweeter did not add much to overall sound btw.