My budget audio install updated 3/22/15
#812
On bass heavy songs, at bass + 3, the sb15mfc30-4 bump well. On half the other songs I listen to, they're barely audible. Maybe they're not hitting the low frequencies. Feeling the air pressure thump in your chest at medium-high volume, is what I'm using as the barometer. I want subs I can hear and feel all the time, at low volumes.
I ordered a Alpine MRV-M500 Mono with a remote ****
Per channel into 4 Ohms: 300W RMS x 1
Per channel into 2 Ohms: 500W RMS x 1
Planning to try out a pair of 8" Tang Band W8-740P (4 OHM) subs, since I already have a pair in my garage. Single voice coil I believe. Not sure how I'd wire them, to maximize output. Need suggestions.
The shape of the oem box is fairly simple, and think I can get close with MDF, and cover it with black carpet. 8" subs are too big to point up, but I could build a 2" taller than oem box, and have them face towards the front of the car.
On the plus side, I love how the front stage sounds now with the focals!
#813
The only issue with another amp is making sure you have an adequate power lead to support the amperage of the new amp. The Oem power lead is not that robust. That's why I avoided it as others recommended running a new power lead and that didn't fit into the budget install I was after. I really thought the power line was probably good enough, but I just didn't go there. Also, I'll say again that the sub drivers I used broke in nicely and were quite an improvement after a while.
#814
The only issue with another amp is making sure you have an adequate power lead to support the amperage of the new amp. The Oem power lead is not that robust. That's why I avoided it as others recommended running a new power lead and that didn't fit into the budget install I was after. I really thought the power line was probably good enough, but I just didn't go there. Also, I'll say again that the sub drivers I used broke in nicely and were quite an improvement after a while.
#815
The only issue with another amp is making sure you have an adequate power lead to support the amperage of the new amp. The Oem power lead is not that robust. That's why I avoided it as others recommended running a new power lead and that didn't fit into the budget install I was after. I really thought the power line was probably good enough, but I just didn't go there. Also, I'll say again that the sub drivers I used broke in nicely and were quite an improvement after a while.
Amp and subs purchased. Gonna build the box next
Not much of a price increase. Amp $175. Amp kit and wiring labor $150. Material for new box - $50.
Last edited by 997TurboTom; 10-15-2017 at 02:32 PM.
#817
My car's at the dealer getting the clutch upgraded and coolant pipes welded, so I won't have a chance to finish the box for 2 weeks. I plan to trim it down to minimal proportions. pictures of template for 1 hole, but i'll be using 2 subs.
#819
any updates on this project? Roffle did you achieve what you aimed for? Pete you have experience withe the oem wiring and the alpine 500 digital mono amp, and i suppose a subwoofer system at the back, can you share your impressions and ideas learned so we can do better?
#820
any updates on this project? Roffle did you achieve what you aimed for? Pete you have experience withe the oem wiring and the alpine 500 digital mono amp, and i suppose a subwoofer system at the back, can you share your impressions and ideas learned so we can do better?
#821
any updates on this project? Roffle did you achieve what you aimed for? Pete you have experience withe the oem wiring and the alpine 500 digital mono amp, and i suppose a subwoofer system at the back, can you share your impressions and ideas learned so we can do better?
#822
Pete, thanks for sharing again brother. Will be doing this upgrade soon. I've recently upgraded the sound in one of my cars and now the 997 seems seriously lacking in quality specially in the low range areas...
#825
I had kicked around the idea of running a heavier gauge wire by tying onto the post of the starter where it gets the heavy gauge constant 12v from the battery, but once I discovered the heavier gauge wiring that runs to that connector on the sub enclosure itself, rather than the really thin wires that run to the amp in the enclosure, determined that wasn't necessary for the slightly more powerful amp I was installing. Now if you're going crazy with the rear subs and amp, that may be a different story.