My budget audio install updated 3/22/15
#106
Ryem3, im just waiting for the speakers to arrive. I will install them as you have suggested. Almost all the same with your set up. Polyglass 4" for the doors and IS 200 with the 8" drivers. I will keep the ones at the rear and probable just fade to provide real fill. Dnt want to remove the rear panels as it might be tricky.
#107
Ryem3, im just waiting for the speakers to arrive. I will install them as you have suggested. Almost all the same with your set up. Polyglass 4" for the doors and IS 200 with the 8" drivers. I will keep the ones at the rear and probable just fade to provide real fill. Dnt want to remove the rear panels as it might be tricky.
#108
For sure you will know. And hopefully it will be as well installed as yours. Only thing is i will get it 30 days from now so still some time to get ideas. Brother, did you have to put sound deadening mats on the doors with the speaker upgrade?
#112
10sqr ft of fat mat for $20 isnt bad is it? Was thinking the 8 inchndrivers, due tomthe different design might cause some rattle. And as an added bonus it might improve the funny sound when we close our doors. 997.2 doors close with a branggg nut a thud.
#113
Flashing rolls - never heard of that. Please post a link to what it is!
#114
Roofer's flashing.
Dynamat's business model is basically to buy super inexpensive bitumen flashing (a roll of bitumen stuck to a piece of foil), spend a bunch on marketing, then mark it up 10,000%.
Sound deadening material is nothing more than a roll of bitumen, a sticky and heavy petroleum product (asphalt basically) with a foil backing to prevent the wrong side from sticking to things.
It is heavy, by design, so keep in mind that deadening your car is going to undo some of that lightening many of us do..
Dynamat's business model is basically to buy super inexpensive bitumen flashing (a roll of bitumen stuck to a piece of foil), spend a bunch on marketing, then mark it up 10,000%.
Sound deadening material is nothing more than a roll of bitumen, a sticky and heavy petroleum product (asphalt basically) with a foil backing to prevent the wrong side from sticking to things.
It is heavy, by design, so keep in mind that deadening your car is going to undo some of that lightening many of us do..
#117
After a few months, you may start having rattles. If so, then revisit the use of it!
#118
The damping material won't do much for rattles. Make sure your drivers are well seated and sealed in the locations. If they aren't secure, then they can rattle. Insulation will quiet the cabin to improve the listening experience.
#119
Btw, thanks for all the contributions on the thread! I'm happy to have logged my 2000th post on this thread!
If you've found it useful, pass on some rep points! Look forward to hearing results from others!
If you've found it useful, pass on some rep points! Look forward to hearing results from others!
#120
I used to experiment with roofing materials, like someone else suggested. That's a great idea if you're trying to save money. But keep in mind that many roofing materials have a strong odor (of tar) and they may not have durable adhesive for applying to metal. If the material peels off slowly over time, the dampening performance is significantly reduced.
Unfortunately, what this means is the best solution is still the stuff made for car audio. They're expensive, and not worth it for a budget installation. Some dampening products will also weigh more per square foot, and they have different vibration reduction properties depending on the temperature and desire dampening frequency.