Bad engine at 82k...now what do I do???
#31
Hey this guy has a bid for 16,700 right now? Maybe try this option, says the engine is toast too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-...US_Cars_Trucks
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-...US_Cars_Trucks
#34
In your shoes I wouldn't rush into things just yet. Weigh out your options then make a decision.
I would first talk to Porsche dealer then Porsche corporate if you're not satisfied. You may be surprised what you find out. They may be able to give you help.
A 911 with a swapped motor will be big turn off to many buyers, just keep that in mind.
How much do you still owe on the car ?
I would first talk to Porsche dealer then Porsche corporate if you're not satisfied. You may be surprised what you find out. They may be able to give you help.
A 911 with a swapped motor will be big turn off to many buyers, just keep that in mind.
How much do you still owe on the car ?
#35
i have to agree with this one. a brand new engine (with all proper documentation + warranty) will make it more attractive in the used market against its many competitors, but price wise that almost never translates to higher monetary resale to the seller.
#37
As recommended, "proper documentation" of the engine will be the key.
I may be the minority here, but if seller has proper documentation (e.g., rebuilt by a well known Porsche Rebuilder, installed by same, engine from a certified new but frontal crashed 997, etc.) I might get tempted to buy yours if I were in the market.
Would I pay the norm? Maybe
I may be the minority here, but if seller has proper documentation (e.g., rebuilt by a well known Porsche Rebuilder, installed by same, engine from a certified new but frontal crashed 997, etc.) I might get tempted to buy yours if I were in the market.
Would I pay the norm? Maybe
#39
sorry to hear you are dealing with such a nightmare. I myself just finished dealing with a very similar situation. i purchased a 05 carrera cab from porsche dealer up here in Canada. I live about 600 km from nearest dealer. after i had got my car home and drove it for a few weeks i heard a ticking sound. at that point i called dealer i bought car from and he told me not to stress it was the lifters. as the summer progressed. and i tried to enjoy my 911 ,( my 3rd car and not driven very much) the sound turned more into a knocking sound.i took the car into a indy garage and after a thousand dollars worth of diagnostics and scopes they told me i had 2 scored cylinders. they quoted me aprox 25g to rebuild the engine with all new high end parts. Clearly i almost chocked. at that point i contacted dealer i bought the car from and told them the facts on what was happening.I had to take it in for them to scope and diagnose as well. after the conclusion that my engine was toast. and it would be 25-30 g to replace with new one right from Stuttgart. they told me they would get on the horn with porsche Canada. and they did, porsche Canada showed compassion, and the had to get porsche in Germany on board. after about 4-5 months of sleepless nights they finally got back to me . the engine was replaced, and was split 3 way.. porsche dealership that sold me the car paid for one third. porsche Germany paid for one third. and i ate the rest. clearly was not the most ideal situation and wasn't what i was looking for when i bought the car. but i have a brand new engine installed by porsche with warranty and it cast me about 11 g.. with the new clutch kit installed free labour on that one. just the parts. my advice to you would be to talk to the dealer you bought the car from and hopefully that is the same place you get your service done. ask them if porsche will show some compassion and try and help you out on this matter. porsche is fully aware of the faults in those engines and hopefully them will help you out. Best of luck with your battle. I understand how stressful this can be.. i just went thru it .. try your best to get a porsche engine.. installed by porsche tech.will probably be best for resale
#41
UPDATE 2 I owe roughly $15,000 on the car. I have talked to Bill at Eurotech, his recommendation for the cheapest out would be a "California motor". There is some company out there that does motor swaps for clean, rebuilt motors in exchange for your bad motor...provided it isn't blow. Mine still "runs", but for how long I don't know due to not knowing the extent of the damage. The swap would cost me roughly $15,000. He has done them in the past with no problems at all. My hope would be to fix the car and then sell it for between 25k-30k. The more below 30k, the more out of pocket I am as that is my break even on loan plus the fix.
I contacted a lemon law website, but the car is too old. I know that to junk it I would get about $7k. I have also just contact the original dealer I bought the car from in San Diego. I expect nothing, but everything is worth a shot. Next step will be to contact Porsche NA directly. Then onto seeing if I can sell it on eBay (as someone posted above a 2005 C2 w/ stuck engine selling for $16k) and putting a reserve for around what I owe. And then last but not least, the fix it and sell it option.
The car was maintained with proper oil changes and anything remotely wrong was always fixed as soon as I noticed. If you are curious of my problem track record with this car…take a look. This is a snippet from what I sent to the dealer who sold it to me.
“You were all contacts when I purchased my 2005 C2S from you in May of 2010 with 49,900 miles on the motor…
I couldn't be more disappointed with the way this car has gone. It was in the shop 3 months after I bought it for an Airbag light, battery warning, third brake light water issue, carpet pulling away from passenger side foot well, and the passenger door light was falling out. Not to mention the cigarette smoke that was never disclosed to me. In January of 2011 (5 months later) I had a check engine light from a bad ignition coil. I also complained about a clunk from the front right strut/shock. The dealer replaced stabilizer bar end links, but it did not help. By May 2011 I was back in for another check engine light. This time for an issue with the activated charcoal filter, as well the clunk was still there. June, only one month later, back in for another check engine light. This time, the charcoal canister. I got a bit over a month, and in August came another check engine light for a defective fuel strainer. All was well, except for the clunk, until December of 2012 when I begun to have hot starting issues. This finally culminated in a complete start failure causing bad ignitions and check engine lights. It turned out to be the starter cable, and by this time I was out of CPO with a bill for $750. February 2012 rolls around and low and behold my clutch is completely slipping at only 72,000 miles. That's only 22,000 miles after purchase. While in the shop it also needed new front brakes and rotors, as well my water pump was leaking. Total cost was $4,700. January 2014 I had the oil changed and they replaced worn inner tie rods, as well as my battery due to bad cells, another $1,500. Barely a month later, I got the worst news possible after bringing the car in for a slight ticking...metal flakes in the oil. I have been told that the engine is all but toast. There is no telling what went wrong without a full teardown, at an estimated cost to me of almost $5,000 without even fixing a thing.”
I contacted a lemon law website, but the car is too old. I know that to junk it I would get about $7k. I have also just contact the original dealer I bought the car from in San Diego. I expect nothing, but everything is worth a shot. Next step will be to contact Porsche NA directly. Then onto seeing if I can sell it on eBay (as someone posted above a 2005 C2 w/ stuck engine selling for $16k) and putting a reserve for around what I owe. And then last but not least, the fix it and sell it option.
The car was maintained with proper oil changes and anything remotely wrong was always fixed as soon as I noticed. If you are curious of my problem track record with this car…take a look. This is a snippet from what I sent to the dealer who sold it to me.
“You were all contacts when I purchased my 2005 C2S from you in May of 2010 with 49,900 miles on the motor…
I couldn't be more disappointed with the way this car has gone. It was in the shop 3 months after I bought it for an Airbag light, battery warning, third brake light water issue, carpet pulling away from passenger side foot well, and the passenger door light was falling out. Not to mention the cigarette smoke that was never disclosed to me. In January of 2011 (5 months later) I had a check engine light from a bad ignition coil. I also complained about a clunk from the front right strut/shock. The dealer replaced stabilizer bar end links, but it did not help. By May 2011 I was back in for another check engine light. This time for an issue with the activated charcoal filter, as well the clunk was still there. June, only one month later, back in for another check engine light. This time, the charcoal canister. I got a bit over a month, and in August came another check engine light for a defective fuel strainer. All was well, except for the clunk, until December of 2012 when I begun to have hot starting issues. This finally culminated in a complete start failure causing bad ignitions and check engine lights. It turned out to be the starter cable, and by this time I was out of CPO with a bill for $750. February 2012 rolls around and low and behold my clutch is completely slipping at only 72,000 miles. That's only 22,000 miles after purchase. While in the shop it also needed new front brakes and rotors, as well my water pump was leaking. Total cost was $4,700. January 2014 I had the oil changed and they replaced worn inner tie rods, as well as my battery due to bad cells, another $1,500. Barely a month later, I got the worst news possible after bringing the car in for a slight ticking...metal flakes in the oil. I have been told that the engine is all but toast. There is no telling what went wrong without a full teardown, at an estimated cost to me of almost $5,000 without even fixing a thing.”
#42
You don't need to spend $5k on a tear down. You can tell how bad the engine by opening the oil filter. A used engine a rebuilt engine and a new engine will have the same weakness. A Jake Raby rebuild is the only way to go. Get off the Internet and give him a call. This is the best advice you can get.
#43
UPDATE 2The car was maintained with proper oil changes and anything remotely wrong was always fixed as soon as I noticed. If you are curious of my problem track record with this car…take a look. This is a snippet from what I sent to the dealer who sold it to me.
“You were all contacts when I purchased my 2005 C2S from you in May of 2010 with 49,900 miles on the motor…
I couldn't be more disappointed with the way this car has gone. It was in the shop 3 months after I bought it for an Airbag light, battery warning, third brake light water issue, carpet pulling away from passenger side foot well, and the passenger door light was falling out. Not to mention the cigarette smoke that was never disclosed to me. In January of 2011 (5 months later) I had a check engine light from a bad ignition coil. I also complained about a clunk from the front right strut/shock. The dealer replaced stabilizer bar end links, but it did not help. By May 2011 I was back in for another check engine light. This time for an issue with the activated charcoal filter, as well the clunk was still there. June, only one month later, back in for another check engine light. This time, the charcoal canister. I got a bit over a month, and in August came another check engine light for a defective fuel strainer. All was well, except for the clunk, until December of 2012 when I begun to have hot starting issues. This finally culminated in a complete start failure causing bad ignitions and check engine lights. It turned out to be the starter cable, and by this time I was out of CPO with a bill for $750. February 2012 rolls around and low and behold my clutch is completely slipping at only 72,000 miles. That's only 22,000 miles after purchase. While in the shop it also needed new front brakes and rotors, as well my water pump was leaking. Total cost was $4,700. January 2014 I had the oil changed and they replaced worn inner tie rods, as well as my battery due to bad cells, another $1,500. Barely a month later, I got the worst news possible after bringing the car in for a slight ticking...metal flakes in the oil. I have been told that the engine is all but toast. There is no telling what went wrong without a full teardown, at an estimated cost to me of almost $5,000 without even fixing a thing.”
“You were all contacts when I purchased my 2005 C2S from you in May of 2010 with 49,900 miles on the motor…
I couldn't be more disappointed with the way this car has gone. It was in the shop 3 months after I bought it for an Airbag light, battery warning, third brake light water issue, carpet pulling away from passenger side foot well, and the passenger door light was falling out. Not to mention the cigarette smoke that was never disclosed to me. In January of 2011 (5 months later) I had a check engine light from a bad ignition coil. I also complained about a clunk from the front right strut/shock. The dealer replaced stabilizer bar end links, but it did not help. By May 2011 I was back in for another check engine light. This time for an issue with the activated charcoal filter, as well the clunk was still there. June, only one month later, back in for another check engine light. This time, the charcoal canister. I got a bit over a month, and in August came another check engine light for a defective fuel strainer. All was well, except for the clunk, until December of 2012 when I begun to have hot starting issues. This finally culminated in a complete start failure causing bad ignitions and check engine lights. It turned out to be the starter cable, and by this time I was out of CPO with a bill for $750. February 2012 rolls around and low and behold my clutch is completely slipping at only 72,000 miles. That's only 22,000 miles after purchase. While in the shop it also needed new front brakes and rotors, as well my water pump was leaking. Total cost was $4,700. January 2014 I had the oil changed and they replaced worn inner tie rods, as well as my battery due to bad cells, another $1,500. Barely a month later, I got the worst news possible after bringing the car in for a slight ticking...metal flakes in the oil. I have been told that the engine is all but toast. There is no telling what went wrong without a full teardown, at an estimated cost to me of almost $5,000 without even fixing a thing.”