I cant belive i was this stupid!!!
#31
96 Ft/#.
I'm **** with this. I do 50 Ft# using star installation, followed by 96 Ft# star configuration, and finally double-check with 96 Ft# again in clockwise motion (in case I screwed up the star configuration).
I'm **** with this. I do 50 Ft# using star installation, followed by 96 Ft# star configuration, and finally double-check with 96 Ft# again in clockwise motion (in case I screwed up the star configuration).
#32
isnt just tightening as tight as you possibly can using ur arms just as good? maybe even a little tighter than using the torque setting?
If you feel when using a torque wrench that you could tighten tighter if you wanted to with your arms then mine would be that tight, maybe a little above 120 lbs then. Id say it would take a second or two of using full strength to get each one untorqued next time i go to remove them.
If you feel when using a torque wrench that you could tighten tighter if you wanted to with your arms then mine would be that tight, maybe a little above 120 lbs then. Id say it would take a second or two of using full strength to get each one untorqued next time i go to remove them.
Last edited by no1joey; 05-01-2014 at 12:40 AM.
#33
#34
cool video.
But still I would like an answer on whether I need to losen my nuts parden the pun and re tighten them with a torque wrench, or will 'bloody hand tight' be fine? I really don't see how theyll come off, itll take some elbow grease to get em off..
But still I would like an answer on whether I need to losen my nuts parden the pun and re tighten them with a torque wrench, or will 'bloody hand tight' be fine? I really don't see how theyll come off, itll take some elbow grease to get em off..
#35
That's hard to answer Joey - because 'bloody hand tight' is speculative. Lots of people are pretty strong, but no two hands are likely to torque a bolt the same. One person's impression of "bloody tight" might still be a little loose. And another's might be too much and actually crunch the threads on the bolts.
To approximate the tightness roughly by hand - think of it like this: If you have a 1 foot long wrench, you'd need to be pulling (or pushing) with about 96 lbs. on that wrench. Does that make sense? Imagine a 96 lb. weight on the other end of the wrench. You want to lift that weight off the ground.
If they're on there pretty good - drive for about 10 or 15 miles and check 'em again.
A lot of shade tree mechanics are pretty good with "good and arm tight plus a quarter turn" but remember alloy wheels aren't made of steel, and I've heard of plenty of people crunching their lug bolts .
In the end, too much could be just as bad as not enough. If it were me, and if using a torque wrench was an option, I'd definitely loosen 'em up and do it again.
To approximate the tightness roughly by hand - think of it like this: If you have a 1 foot long wrench, you'd need to be pulling (or pushing) with about 96 lbs. on that wrench. Does that make sense? Imagine a 96 lb. weight on the other end of the wrench. You want to lift that weight off the ground.
If they're on there pretty good - drive for about 10 or 15 miles and check 'em again.
A lot of shade tree mechanics are pretty good with "good and arm tight plus a quarter turn" but remember alloy wheels aren't made of steel, and I've heard of plenty of people crunching their lug bolts .
In the end, too much could be just as bad as not enough. If it were me, and if using a torque wrench was an option, I'd definitely loosen 'em up and do it again.
#36
Ive bought a new 10-150 lb-ft wrench off ebay going to do mine again.
So is it 96 lb or 118 lb? Why the change shouldnt we just use 118 if they have revised the torque setting?
So is it 96 lb or 118 lb? Why the change shouldnt we just use 118 if they have revised the torque setting?
Last edited by no1joey; 05-01-2014 at 06:20 AM.
#38
The info I posted in #28 is from the 2012 Service Manual - looks like you can use 96 ft lbs or 118 ft lbs, your option. I've been using 96 ft lbs for 7 years and never any problems.
#39
I copied the below from a PCA member.
"I was able to get the Porsche Service Bulletin that addresses this issue and have found out the following: Porsche specifies a torque of 160 NM for silver or black wheel bolts on sports cars as of model year 2012. For cars up to model year 2011, a torque of 130 Nm is allowed, "160 Nm also permitted retroactively", but it appears any "black wheel bolts" regardless of model year should be torqued to 160 Nm. You may find that your Porsche dealer is torquing everything to 160 Nm just to keep things simple, and FYI, I am keeping my torque at 130 Nm simply because of a lifelong fear of "over torquing" wheel bolts...and it seems Porsche is saying that is "ok".
#40
That's a fairly large difference in torque. I use black lugs but will likely stick to 96 ft-lbs.
I'll add another thing to watch out for. If you use the type of jack pad that turns 90 degrees to hang in the jack point be sure you remember to remove it. Despite being careful about this I left it on the front corner before my first drive this year and remembered it in the first hard turn when it exited out the side of the vehicle.
I'll add another thing to watch out for. If you use the type of jack pad that turns 90 degrees to hang in the jack point be sure you remember to remove it. Despite being careful about this I left it on the front corner before my first drive this year and remembered it in the first hard turn when it exited out the side of the vehicle.
#41
I copied the below from a PCA member.
"I was able to get the Porsche Service Bulletin that addresses this issue and have found out the following: Porsche specifies a torque of 160 NM for silver or black wheel bolts on sports cars as of model year 2012. For cars up to model year 2011, a torque of 130 Nm is allowed, "160 Nm also permitted retroactively", but it appears any "black wheel bolts" regardless of model year should be torqued to 160 Nm. You may find that your Porsche dealer is torquing everything to 160 Nm just to keep things simple, and FYI, I am keeping my torque at 130 Nm simply because of a lifelong fear of "over torquing" wheel bolts...and it seems Porsche is saying that is "ok".
"I was able to get the Porsche Service Bulletin that addresses this issue and have found out the following: Porsche specifies a torque of 160 NM for silver or black wheel bolts on sports cars as of model year 2012. For cars up to model year 2011, a torque of 130 Nm is allowed, "160 Nm also permitted retroactively", but it appears any "black wheel bolts" regardless of model year should be torqued to 160 Nm. You may find that your Porsche dealer is torquing everything to 160 Nm just to keep things simple, and FYI, I am keeping my torque at 130 Nm simply because of a lifelong fear of "over torquing" wheel bolts...and it seems Porsche is saying that is "ok".
#42
What changed for them to change the torque setting that's the question.
#44
Did that once on one of my first cars (RX-7), pretty scary.
My stupid moment with the 997 came today when I opened the trunk lid with the wiper arms up. I was washing it and completely forgot they were still up. At least I have the Xpel which took most of the brunt, but I am still pissed at myself.
My stupid moment with the 997 came today when I opened the trunk lid with the wiper arms up. I was washing it and completely forgot they were still up. At least I have the Xpel which took most of the brunt, but I am still pissed at myself.
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