So I have a white C4S. I just put on a Getty ducktail. The paint does not match in my minds eye and the shop says it's because of the age of the car versus the paint and that it will change with time and match. I call BS on this.

So I am looking at biting the bullet and pay someone else to re paint it. Hell it's a damn Porsche and the paint. Should match.

Question is this,can the paint be matched properly or will I get the same results and be wasting my time,money and creating more suffering. Cause right now I am very depresses.

Thanks

 

I am no expert but painted 2 cars already.

Most professional painters would "feather" paint the adjacent body panels so that any small difference in color would "gradually" blend in.

What year is your car? How much sun exposure? Different factors will dictate how matched the old and new parts will be.

Obviously, if the paint is factory new (or almost perfectly new) and the paint shop has the correct factory formula, the newly painted part would almost perfectly blend in.

If I were you, I would pay the extra cost and go to a painter who specializes in Porsches. I bet he would recommend spraying the adjacent parts for a subtle blending of color.

Sorry about your project. Good luck with the 2nd attempt.

Did you go to the $99.99 Earl Scheibb special? I am kidding of course!

 

Thanks


A little more help on this please I can't sleep!!

 

This won't help you sleep any better but the paint shop may be partially correct. Any paint will oxidize depending on how much and the intensity of the sun and elements it is exposed to. Consequently, the chemical composition changes slightly such that it reflects light in minutely different wavelengths compared to a fresh coat of paint. So, inside and/or under indirect sunlight the two paints may look very, very similar, if not identical but appear different in full light. In the end, the new paint on the lid will oxidize/fade and it will eventually match.

The solution, as stated above, would be to have adjacent parts feathered so you eye does not directly see two contrasting surfaces right next to each other. Another solution, and I don't think this is as preferable, would be to have either the entire car buffed (a few microns of paint removed) or just the adjacent surfaces. If the new paint is an identical match to the original paint you would be removing the top layer of the original paint and restoring it to it's original, un-oxidized/un-faded color. In theory this should work but it is sort of like the tail wagging the dog.

Sorry to not be more helpful. Forwhatever it's worth, this was my solution for a 1990 BMW (which of course is not a 911) I used to own and it worked out well. Best of luck.

 

Darth...sorry to hear of your issue. I too call B.S. on the color blending in to match over time.
That's what they want you to believe so you just go away.


if they wanted you happy, they would offer to re-spray it again.
I would be very hesitant to spray/feather color into your rear arches,as the entire rear quarters,and all the way to the windshield pillars would technically need to be re-clear coated.


I too favor using Porsche certified shops. problem is, theres very few shops who are certified.

 

Sorry to reply again but can you confirm that it is "very" noticeable? I bet that it is. Even when it is 'almost' perfect, it will never be perfect since the paint are of "different batches." FYI, even clear-coat isn't really clear in color. Just imagine perfectly matching the base WITH the clear coat.

IMO, white is also very hard to match relative to, say, black.

I really can't fully agree with your paint shop that it will "eventually" fade to match the factory faint. Remember the law of relativity: when the fenders/bumpers/hood fade, the lid will also fade at almost the same rate.

Why lengthen your suffering by waiting for the alleged "the lid will eventually fade and match." Remember your last bad haircut?...didn't it feel as if it took forever for your hair to grow long?

If it makes you any happier, my Glacier Blue '83SC Cab was rear-ended. Guess what? Even though PPG could punch-in the paint code into the computer, the paint never matched my original paint due to age, oxidation, etc. In the end, even though the insurance company paid for the rear damages (and the adjoining panels), I had to fork out extra money just to get the whole car painted. I was rear-ended again after about 12 months; luckily, my painter kept the extra from the first accident and just reused the extra for the 2nd accident.

Go to other 3-4 shops and ask them if they can guarantee about 99% paint match without feathering. See what they say. You might get lucky and find a super-duper painter who can color-match.

You are a Porsche owner. I bet that even it matches at say 98%, that 2% will chew on you. Trust me, some eagle-eyed person would one day notice the 2% difference, then tell you, "Hey, your car panel colors don't match!" I bet the comment will hit you like a brick.

I would just move on if I were you. With all due respect, I would assume that you did not spend more than $700.00 for the bad paint job; thus, why do self-torture? Cut your losses and move on so you could enjoy your car and feel normal again!

 

Hey Darth, very sorry to hear this.

I agree with with Cab83. This is an after market part. It will never be as perfectly matched as how the car left the factory x no. of years ago. If this is a shop that you've experienced and happy with, then they can't be that bad so just get them to improve / redo to the best they can and move on.

Like I mentioned, mine wasn't perfect either when I got the car back. I did think of finding and paying another shop to try getting it perfect, but there's no guarantee how many % it can perfect and always a risk of having the exact same problem (or worst!). So my decision is to give the shop a 2nd chance, they agreed to do some improve after a month. Their theory is to let the paint settles further with the fiber glass after a month of under the sun, then they will do further touch up work... etc. Then I'll be done with this and move on.

I wouldn't recommend finding another shop and spending the extra money on trying to get the perfectly-match paint. Save the money and consider vinyl wrapping the whole car which might get you a better result and a completely new fresh look!

 

A good painter can match the color of your car as it currently sits.

 

Just to help out the Darthy, and also other members, can people who had their tail repainted please post your 'honest' opinion of your repainted tail?


Please specify the year of the car, the color of the car, and the 'color matchness' of the tail vs. adjacent panels. Understanding that opinions are relative, can specify your personal percent rating of the "color-matching outcome?"

Would you also do things differently?


Did the painter do 'feathering?'

 

Don,


I have outsourced at least 15 paint jobs and everyone has feathered painted.


Good to know they still exist. I do plan on having a ducktail (or turbo tail) installed one of these days. Can you post or PM me good painter(s) that you know? I might consider visiting them if/when I do switch tails.

Though Irvine is somewhat of a distance, I do travel for my cars' maintenance just to get it right (e.g., Torrance for alignment/corner balancing, Anziano/OC for painting, etc.)

 

Cab83, PM me when you're ready to get the paint work done. The painter and I work together. I've been slowly trying to take more pictures of the paint work he has done, so once I get a good amount of pictures together, I'll start posting them up in a separate thread on here in the vendor section.

-Don

 

I agree. Had almost the same exact paint job done as the OP except on a replacement decklid after a light rear end. A little blending was done all around it and not even the local dealer could tell by looking at it. Wasn't cheap but didn't come out of my pocket and I insisted on getting it done right.

 

I think I should mention that I had a turbo tail painted 2 years ago and it matched perfectly. Can two yeasr of fade make this much difference?

 

Also can someone explain what computerized paint matching is?

 

Painted by the same guys? OEM turbo tail is metal?

Btw, is the issue with paint matching, or orange peel, or both?