Last week I took my 08 911 C2 to a track day. I did a brake fluid flush and filled with Stoptech fluid as well as installed some Hawk pads.

This weekend in removed the Hawk pads and reinstalled the OEM pads. I also did a flush/fill with new fluid. I used a Motive bleeder for the job both before the track day and for the job this weekend. Well, I got a bit greedy and I now have a problem I can't sort out. I started the bleeding with the right rear. Then moved to the left rear. That's when I got greedy. I thought I had enough fluid in the reservoir to complete bleeding that caliper. But I did not. The reservoir ran dry and I got air at the bleeder valve. So, I put more fluid in and finished the caliper. Then, went back to the right rear and started the process all over. When I finished all four, the pedal was very long and had almost no firmness. I stopped for the night and resumed this morning. I started fresh and bleed all four calipers. However, the long soft pedal remains.
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance!

 

You mentioned you put the pads again. If the pads have not seated, you might need to pump the pedal a few times. This, of course, assumes you didn't introduced any air.

After pumping the pedal and it is still soft, bleed again. Better yet, start the bleeding process for safety reasons. You have the bleeder unit so this should be easy enough.

 

Thanks for the advice. As I began my second bleeding, I had high hopes that it would resolve the issue. Unfortunately it did not. I'm at a loss -

 

I took it for a short drive around the neighborhood tonight hoping for something, anything that was a sign of progress. Unfortunately, no change.

 

If you got air in the lines the it will get sucked into the abs system. You need to have a shop with the computers actuate the abs system while re-flushing the system. Durametric might work if you have that.

 

Probably air in the master cylinder. Try this. It worked for me many years ago on my SC:

Open right-hand rear bleeder valves, then depress brake pedal several times. After depressing the pedal, keep it in the bottom position for 2 to 3 seconds and release pedal slowly. Repeat this procedure two or three times on the left rear / right front / right rear wheels. This causes all air bubbles to be removed from the brake master cylinder.

Review this also especially the paragraph regarding activating the ABS to eliminate sponginess:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ing_Brakes.htm

 

I can confirm the latest durametric software allows for abs activation during bleeding in the enthusiast version.

 

OP,

Questions:
1. Can we assume you have done a brake bleeding before?
2. You and jironarcis are the same member?

 

jironarcis is a spammer. Check his other posts before mods take him off.

 

I have done brake bleeding before using this same Motive Bleeder. Never had any issues before. But I've also never let the reservoir run dry while bleeding the brakes either.

Edro is my only profile. I have no idea who that other poster is.

Thanks!

 

Before you spend $ on Durametric Pro or a p-mechanic, I would try my recommendation first --- I am a cheapskate.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Thanks. It was just weird the spammer and OP had the same number of four (4) posts.

 

Any update on your issue? If solved, can you share?

 

First of all, thanks to everyone for the recommendations. After another bleeding, without success, I have to look at all options. So, most things come down to time and money. I don't have a scanner tool and have pulled wheels off 3 times trying to resolve the issue. A call to a nearby independent shop that I use found that they will resolve for around $100. So, that's an easy choice. I'll update with the final outcome.
Thanks again all -

 

Is it a 6 Speed or auto? If it s a 6 speed maybe your not getting the air from the clutch out? Same system (at least in the 09). Don t know if there is a bleeder on the 08 for that. Just a thought.