Hey guys, so I am rebuilding my calipers soon I have bought a tonne of gear, air compressor to blow the pistons out, tools, power bleeder, turkey basters, piston clamp to remove pads, flare wrench nut for removing the brake line, new caliper bolts and new brake pad sensors in case I snap any.

Done a tonne of reading the DIY's and I still have some gaps in my thought process about how to go about it I was hoping someone can fill in, 6 questions hope that's not asking too much



1) Should I remove some brake fluid from the reservoir before starting? Where should the fluid level be before removing the calipers?

2) Should I leave the brake pedal where it is or place something against it pressing it down slightly?

3) When removing the brake line from the caliper I assume some fluid will come out, will this stop at a certain point or continue to pour? Should I tie a small plastic bag around the ends?

4) With the front vibration dampeners & rear spider things on the back of the brake pads, some ppl say leave them off while some put them back on, what do you recommend? and do I need to apply a adhesive to get them back on? Will this stuff work?? - http://www.bendix.com.au/content/hig...rake-lubricant

5) Do I need to use brake pad grease when reinstalling the pads?

6) After reconnecting everything and before doing the bleed I assume there would be air in between the brake line caliper connection through to the brake pistons, inside the caliper, how do you get this air out or will it just fill up naturally when you bleed?

 

1. doesn t matter
2. leave it.
3.doesn t matter.
4.I have read to put them back on with NO adheseive. They should lock in place.
5.no
6. I believe a good bleed will remove all the air.
Just my 2 cents.

 

To bleed seriously, you have to use a tank pressurized with brake fluid. You can get these for about $50. It saves you the hassle of asking someone to push the pedal.

Yves

 

http://www.motiveproducts.com/

 

Thanks guys, I bought a power bleeder, its just there are a few DIY that reccommend getting someone to hold the pedal down while you bleed the calipers as a way of finishing off the bleeding process to ensure there is no air. Or I guess I could just use 2 litres of fluid to ensure no air is in the system...

Also my brakes squeal which is why I wanted to use some of that Bendix ceramic brake lubricant, just wanted to know where exactly it goes, in between the vibration damper and back of the brake pads?

 

Some people have said not to put anything in between the vibration dampers and back of the pads as then it won't stick, if this is true where would you put brake lubricant to stop squeal? Are shims and vibration dampers the same thing? Im getting confused about this.

 

Bot alert ^^

 

I have never did the Porsche brakes yet but on others the pad itself is locked into place and the shim/or vibration damper (same thing) will also stay in place once you lock everything together. I don t like too much lubricant for fear it will get hot and run onto the rotor or pad making a mess. Usually the shim has little tabs on the pad side that lock it in. But from what I ve read the shims on the Porsche lock into to caliper piston. So once you lock everything in nothing can really move. If you must, then put the lube lightly on the rear of the pad side. One note on another vehicle I didn t put the shims back and in about 1000 miles developed a bad brake vibration and grinding feel. Put the shims back in and all was fine.

 

Thanks mate. I don't know why people go on about the adhesive on a shim if it locks into place. Apologies for the post that said this if you are not a bot!!

This stuff, http://www.bendix.com.au/content/hig...rake-lubricant has a temp rating of 3000F, so I don't think it will run. You guys might want to look into it, its a ceramic paste.

So I guess I just put a dab in between the shims and brake pads on a spot where the caliper pistons will press?

 

Lets be clear, put the lube on the back of the brake pad. A dot on the other side of the shim won t hurt anything either. When you take it apart it will make everything clear. If you can clean everything up a little before. That goes for all parts you see that got old black brake dust, grease and rust. I gotta laugh, don t know what a bot is?? LOL Guess I m too old too.

 

I've noticed these random posts of people repeating lines from other peoples posts. They usually are new members too. Similar to a spam bot.

This correct? -

 

Obviously the American branch of 6SPD is spying on the Australian branch.
They are using drones and spy bots and spam bots and the whole situation is getting out of hand.


THIS MUST BE STOPPED!

Or to put it another way: What are you smoking down there Joey?

 

lol?

 

Yes your diagram is correct.

 

LOL Good luck w the brakes