Need Advice, Considering the purchase of my first Porsche :)
#1
Need Advice, Considering the purchase of my first Porsche :)
My budget is $55k, thinking of a 997.2 911S manual.. ... what options would you recommend as Must have, and Really Nice to have? Got a white 2010 on my radar. It's a CPO asking $57.9K.. the dealer provided a dme readout but couldnt explain it on the spot. I would greatly appreciate your assesment of the report and any other advice. THANK YOU ALL in advance.
Last edited by love2drive; 12-08-2015 at 09:24 PM.
#2
The DME looks fine to me, especially for a manual where over-revs are more likely. Readings in ranges 1 and 2 are slight over-revs within the range generally considered to be acceptable... typically for aggressive shifts. The range 1 readings occurred 100 engine hours ago, the range 2 reading occurred 200 engine hours ago, so there has been time for any critical problem to show up (not that it would in ranges 1 and 2). No misfires are occurring so coils etc look good. The sport seats and deeper and more body hugging than the more "normal" seats and are great for performance driving, but make sure you are okay with the slightly extra effort to get in and out of the car. As a side effect, be sure to check that the outer side bolsters aren't excessively worn from entry and exit.
The car has 31832 miles run for 1059 hours for an average speed of 30 miles per hour, typically indicating the car was mainly used as an in-city driver.
I appears to have the normal "modernization" options to support Bluetooth and audio inputs (make sure they provide the special "Y" audio cable for that as part of the deal). The "rear" console is actually the main center console, its very nice to have it and the setbacks painted the exterior color... a nice plus to me. You'd be surprised at how many cars do not have self-dimming mirrors (mine doesn't) so that is a nice plus.
Edit - This following paragraph appears to be incorrect as pointed out by semicycler in a later post: I don't see PASM (adjustable suspension dampening) on the list so that is unusual for an S. Trying to look at the dealer's photos it's hard to tell but it appears that button may be missing on the lower console just as an additional confirmation. Note that this is different than the PSM listed on the dealer's web site. PASM brings you not only adjustable dampening but also a 10mm lower ride height. In "soft" mode PASM is reported to be be milder than the ride in non-PASM cars, and of course, in "hard" mode it is stiffer. Some find the suspension in non-PASM cars a little stiffer than they would prefer but that would be your call. Sometimes these folks just have too much air in their tires, mistakingly thinking that the "fully-loaded" recommendation of 37/44 cold is correct. I'd suggest you do some searches regarding non-PASM cars to make sure you are okay with the stiffer suspension and higher ride height (bigger wheel gap at the top of the fender as well, you can see this is the side photos on their site. This is not a big deal to some, a really big thing for others).
It appears to be a car that has been kept in the NY/NJ area so make sure someone does a thorough PPI looking for corrosion issues related to the winter climates and the road chemicals/gravel they use there.
If you go forward with the car, I'd think you could get it for 10-15% less... well within your budget. It's not a good time of year for selling Porsches in NJ, and even if you are okay with the lack of PASM (if I am correct) you can use this as a negotiating tool nonetheless ("Sir, The car is perfect except for the missing PASM!"). I also see that they drilled in the front license plate. In Texas I get away without one but they could call me on it. I don't know if you can in CA. Since that is drilled through the painted nose I treat this as a minus as well.
Finally, I see the car as already been upgraded with the Euro side marker lamps, so that will save you about $40 right there!
Good luck with your search.
The car has 31832 miles run for 1059 hours for an average speed of 30 miles per hour, typically indicating the car was mainly used as an in-city driver.
I appears to have the normal "modernization" options to support Bluetooth and audio inputs (make sure they provide the special "Y" audio cable for that as part of the deal). The "rear" console is actually the main center console, its very nice to have it and the setbacks painted the exterior color... a nice plus to me. You'd be surprised at how many cars do not have self-dimming mirrors (mine doesn't) so that is a nice plus.
Edit - This following paragraph appears to be incorrect as pointed out by semicycler in a later post: I don't see PASM (adjustable suspension dampening) on the list so that is unusual for an S. Trying to look at the dealer's photos it's hard to tell but it appears that button may be missing on the lower console just as an additional confirmation. Note that this is different than the PSM listed on the dealer's web site. PASM brings you not only adjustable dampening but also a 10mm lower ride height. In "soft" mode PASM is reported to be be milder than the ride in non-PASM cars, and of course, in "hard" mode it is stiffer. Some find the suspension in non-PASM cars a little stiffer than they would prefer but that would be your call. Sometimes these folks just have too much air in their tires, mistakingly thinking that the "fully-loaded" recommendation of 37/44 cold is correct. I'd suggest you do some searches regarding non-PASM cars to make sure you are okay with the stiffer suspension and higher ride height (bigger wheel gap at the top of the fender as well, you can see this is the side photos on their site. This is not a big deal to some, a really big thing for others).
It appears to be a car that has been kept in the NY/NJ area so make sure someone does a thorough PPI looking for corrosion issues related to the winter climates and the road chemicals/gravel they use there.
If you go forward with the car, I'd think you could get it for 10-15% less... well within your budget. It's not a good time of year for selling Porsches in NJ, and even if you are okay with the lack of PASM (if I am correct) you can use this as a negotiating tool nonetheless ("Sir, The car is perfect except for the missing PASM!"). I also see that they drilled in the front license plate. In Texas I get away without one but they could call me on it. I don't know if you can in CA. Since that is drilled through the painted nose I treat this as a minus as well.
Finally, I see the car as already been upgraded with the Euro side marker lamps, so that will save you about $40 right there!
Good luck with your search.
Last edited by StormRune; 12-09-2015 at 11:59 AM.
#5
+1 to Storm.
I wish I'd put more thought into PASM when I bought mine(don't have it). I run my tires at 34/42 conti's and when I run over a dime bout tell you heads or tails. But as storm said if you get that 10-15% off might not matter to you. You could even put on a great set of bilsteins and lower springs on after purchase.
A wise man once told me to buy the best that you can afford and never look over your shoulder afterwards.
Remember it's slow time of year for buying so your holding all the cards/money. Get what you want and when you find it jump.
If this is it congrats, if not Good Luck finding that one!
SammyD
I wish I'd put more thought into PASM when I bought mine(don't have it). I run my tires at 34/42 conti's and when I run over a dime bout tell you heads or tails. But as storm said if you get that 10-15% off might not matter to you. You could even put on a great set of bilsteins and lower springs on after purchase.
A wise man once told me to buy the best that you can afford and never look over your shoulder afterwards.
Remember it's slow time of year for buying so your holding all the cards/money. Get what you want and when you find it jump.
If this is it congrats, if not Good Luck finding that one!
SammyD
#6
WoW! I could not imagine a more thorough and thoughtful assessment. You have empowered me with what is obviously your experienced and expert knowledge!! Thank You Sir.
After reading your review I've decided that I want PASM, so I'll probably pass on the above. One question is, the Euro lights, are they just better looking or is there more about?
Luckily, there are two other 911S, one with and the other I believe also has PASM. 1st is 2010 911S with 21k mi asking $61.5k (loaded 108kmsrp).. The other is a 2011 911S with 36k mi asking $58K. I'd appreciate your advice here too. Both cars originally from Ohio so I was a bit concerned about corrosion but they look clean.
2010 911S: first several pics including pic under engine area to show no corrosion. Sorry I didn't provide pics of exterior as they're not on my phone at moment..
Next pictures are of 2011 911S... not as detailed a report yet..the Land-Rover dealer said he'd provide dme and full options especially since sports exhaust doest show up on ad list yet picture's clearly show sports exhaust.
I Thank You Sincerely
After reading your review I've decided that I want PASM, so I'll probably pass on the above. One question is, the Euro lights, are they just better looking or is there more about?
Luckily, there are two other 911S, one with and the other I believe also has PASM. 1st is 2010 911S with 21k mi asking $61.5k (loaded 108kmsrp).. The other is a 2011 911S with 36k mi asking $58K. I'd appreciate your advice here too. Both cars originally from Ohio so I was a bit concerned about corrosion but they look clean.
2010 911S: first several pics including pic under engine area to show no corrosion. Sorry I didn't provide pics of exterior as they're not on my phone at moment..
Next pictures are of 2011 911S... not as detailed a report yet..the Land-Rover dealer said he'd provide dme and full options especially since sports exhaust doest show up on ad list yet picture's clearly show sports exhaust.
I Thank You Sincerely
#7
All 'S' model 997's come with PASM standard. The base model non-S versions have fixed shocks. But you could order PASM on the base model as an option code 475.
For 997.2's there is an option for Sport PASM as well. Not sure if it's available on cab's though, thought it was only coupes and targas. The Sport PASM option code is P17.
Summary:
997.1 base - no PASM standard, option code 475 to add PASM
997.1 'S' - PASM standard
997.2 base - no PASM standard, option code 475 to add PASM or option code P17 to add Sport PASM
997.2 'S' - PASM standard, option code P17 to add Sport PASM
OP - the first car in post #1 has PASM, the second and third cars in post #6 have Sport PASM
For 997.2's there is an option for Sport PASM as well. Not sure if it's available on cab's though, thought it was only coupes and targas. The Sport PASM option code is P17.
Summary:
997.1 base - no PASM standard, option code 475 to add PASM
997.1 'S' - PASM standard
997.2 base - no PASM standard, option code 475 to add PASM or option code P17 to add Sport PASM
997.2 'S' - PASM standard, option code P17 to add Sport PASM
OP - the first car in post #1 has PASM, the second and third cars in post #6 have Sport PASM
Last edited by semicycler; 12-09-2015 at 11:35 AM.
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#8
All 'S' model 997's come with PASM standard. The base model non-S versions have fixed shocks. But you could order PASM on the base model as an option code 475.
For 997.2's there is an option for Sport PASM as well. Not sure if it's available on cab's though, thought it was only coupes and targas. The Sport PASM option code is P17.
For 997.2's there is an option for Sport PASM as well. Not sure if it's available on cab's though, thought it was only coupes and targas. The Sport PASM option code is P17.
In any case I apologize for the error!
When I have more time later I'll look at the new listings you posted and see if I can't get it more correct this time.
Last edited by StormRune; 12-09-2015 at 12:00 PM.
#10
I'm leaning towards the 2010 c2s that has full leather, pasm sport, ...no cpo,.. and they are asking $61.5k.. I'll give a cash offer, take or leave...it'll be final..up to them
Last edited by love2drive; 12-09-2015 at 11:50 PM.
#12
Hello semicycler,
I agree that the second car (2010 911S) has Sport PASM, but how do you know that that third car 2011 911S (post #6) has Sport PASM?
I believe the description in the ad is not accurate. The original sticker and options list is not available and the dealer knows very little about Porsches.
I agree that the second car (2010 911S) has Sport PASM, but how do you know that that third car 2011 911S (post #6) has Sport PASM?
I believe the description in the ad is not accurate. The original sticker and options list is not available and the dealer knows very little about Porsches.
Last edited by love2drive; 12-10-2015 at 08:41 AM.
#13
You should very strongly consider getting a PPI on these cars, especially the non-CPO ones. It is a few hundred dollars well spent if it finds even one problem of any significance. Also, you should find out when the next services are due and what they are, including tires (be sure to ask tire age as well). Service on these cars is not at all cheap. Many will try to sell their car just before a service is due.
Last edited by StormRune; 12-10-2015 at 09:45 AM.
#14
StormRune,
I greatly appreciate your advice. I will certainly invest in the PPI. Is this inspection best done at a Porsche dealership?
By the way. I made an offer on the second car i posted above (#6, 2010 C2S with full leather, Sport PASM..). They are asking $61.9K firm without a CPO. I offered 10% less at $56K. They kind of dismissed it as "Way Off". I'm in no rush. Do you think my offer was too low?
Thank You for your continual advise.
I greatly appreciate your advice. I will certainly invest in the PPI. Is this inspection best done at a Porsche dealership?
By the way. I made an offer on the second car i posted above (#6, 2010 C2S with full leather, Sport PASM..). They are asking $61.9K firm without a CPO. I offered 10% less at $56K. They kind of dismissed it as "Way Off". I'm in no rush. Do you think my offer was too low?
Thank You for your continual advise.
You should very strongly consider getting a PPI on these cars, especially the non-CPO ones. It is a few hundred dollars well spent if it finds even one problem of any significance. Also, you should find out when the next services are due and what they are, including tires (be sure to ask tire age as well). Service on these cars is not at all cheap. Many will try to sell their car just before a service is due.
#15
Personally I use nada/kbb guide to establish dealer wholesale trade. Take into account recent services/tires, mileage to overall condition. This gives me my base as to 90% sure that the dealers got this amount of cash in car not much more or less. I also take into account they add 1-2% on price for a trade deal. So buying out right deduct 1.5% from top so the extra cream ain't in deal.
Now A = wholesale trade. B = asking price minus 1.5% no trade
B - A = C difference
Use your number 61.9k x 1.5%= $928.5~ round up 950
61900 - $950 = 60950.00 = B
Let's call wholesale just a random number I have not looked at car or evaluated it do your own evaluation. But for this I'm calling it 53k. So A= 53,000
60950 - 53000 = 7,950 = C the amount the dealership wants to make on sale (minus the 1.5%)
Take 7950 / 2 to give you the mean $3975.00
Add 3975.00 + 53,000 = 56,975.00 that's a 7.5% profit for dealer.
In this case I look at anything less than 56.9k in my favor anything over in his.
Now you need to ask yourself is it "that" car I want to pay up for. Color, options extra clean only you can judge that.
Call me over analytical but in the end it's only numbers.. How many numbers you want to give up??
Caveat: most of my deals take days/weeks to do. Ive rarely got the best deal on a one day deal with a dealership. Not saying it can't be done but I've not had much luck in it.
Great Luck to you. hope this is not to confusing..
SammyD
Now A = wholesale trade. B = asking price minus 1.5% no trade
B - A = C difference
Use your number 61.9k x 1.5%= $928.5~ round up 950
61900 - $950 = 60950.00 = B
Let's call wholesale just a random number I have not looked at car or evaluated it do your own evaluation. But for this I'm calling it 53k. So A= 53,000
60950 - 53000 = 7,950 = C the amount the dealership wants to make on sale (minus the 1.5%)
Take 7950 / 2 to give you the mean $3975.00
Add 3975.00 + 53,000 = 56,975.00 that's a 7.5% profit for dealer.
In this case I look at anything less than 56.9k in my favor anything over in his.
Now you need to ask yourself is it "that" car I want to pay up for. Color, options extra clean only you can judge that.
Call me over analytical but in the end it's only numbers.. How many numbers you want to give up??
Caveat: most of my deals take days/weeks to do. Ive rarely got the best deal on a one day deal with a dealership. Not saying it can't be done but I've not had much luck in it.
Great Luck to you. hope this is not to confusing..
SammyD