Can anyone provide insight regarding lifting a DB9? I've looked at the owner's manual but it is barely helpful regarding the actual jacking points. I want to put my car in the air, but don't want to damage anything in the process.

On the Z06 I had, which also has an aluminum frame, there were front and rear points on the side rails which had oval slots into which you could place jacking pucks having an integral "T". Just insert and give 'em a 1/4 turn and the aluminum jacking pucks were locked in place. Then it was easy to use the adjustable lift pads to engage the pucks (approx 3" diameter by 1" tall).

On the DB9, there appears to be similar exposed areas of aluminum, front and rear, along the length of the car but these are not very long (a few inches?) and not very wide (between 1 and 2 inches?). And since they are recessed (being somewhat surrounded by the car's body work and other misc panels) they seem to require a special shape to match in order to maximize the lifting surface. There also appears to be holes into the frame at these points - shipping lock down points?

I'm sure that I've been clear as mud, but perhaps some of you have actually lifted your car, or know exactly the best procedure to hoist it off the ground?

Hoping you guys can help.

Thanks!

 

Check the owner's manual. The points are pretty well described in there. Be careful to keep the jack on the frame points and not on the plastic body panel. You might try a hockey puck if your jack pad is too big.

 

Well, you might think they are well described, but I think otherwise. It is a pretty crappy view, being as how small the illustrations are and not being a real photo (IMO).

In any case, after considerable lookin' and feelin' around (plus taking some photos) I was able to fashion some frame to jack pad interface blocks out of some hardwood I had lying around, and they work perfectly.

Back were: 1-1/4" x 4-1/2" x 3/4"
Fronts were: 1-1/2" x 4" x 1-1/2"

I made the fronts by duct taping together 2 pieces of the 3/4" stock. It probably didn't need to be 1-1/2" thick, maybe 1-1/4" would do, but it was easy to just tape two of them together.

The reason the fronts need to be thicker than the rears is because the bodywork protrudes lower in the front (relative to the frame) than it does in the rear.
These fit wholly on the aluminum frame without touching or overlapping any of the adjacent underbody plastic.

This really was a temp solution so that I could put my baby in the air and get a good look see at its undersides. I think I’ll have a friend make up some aluminum pieces that I can glue to the bottom of the frame so that whenever I want to jack up the car, I won't have to be fumbling with holding the blocks against the frame while I try to adjust the lift pad.

Any way, I don't see the harm in doing so and I'll use some kind of low strength adhesive so that they can be removed easily. I guess you could always drill a couple small holes (not all the way through) and mount the strips with some self-taping screws. But I kinds’ like the glue idea (fits the concept of the car).

Speaking of the undersides, all I can say is Wow! Looks like a model car under there (lots of flat plates bolted in from stem to stern). You basically can’t get at anything without having to remove one of several aluminum plates. Sure makes changing oil difficult. I would never want to attempt an oil change by just jacking the car up…way too much work! But since I’ve got a lift, I’ll probably give it a go.

I’ll post a few photos of the bottom if anyone is interested.

 

Have been unable to find any clear info on jacking or lift points for my 2007 DB9 I just recently acquired, other than the nominal info in the owners manual. Actually was told to use the inner frame (12" in from side of car) right behind the door edge to raise the entire side as has been often seen by this individual. The inner frame doesn't seem quite as stout as I would expect so am still looking for a solution.

Would love to see the photos you've taken of "your solution" if still available. I realize this thread is quite old but would appreciate any advice. Find it hard to believe the small area described by the owner's manual is really the only intended lift point safely available.

Thanks so much for any insight you can share

 

A thread of mine from a couple of years ago on this

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/t...on+Axle+stands

 

Use hockey pucks at the cutouts on the sill panels, they line up with the front and rear edges of the door opening

 

Thank you! Much appreciated.

 

I also cut down a piece of 2x4 to fit in the small place they call a jacking point.

 

Thank you, appreciate the reply. Just got home from a very fun outing!! So delighted with how fast this car is!! Previous owner traded it in for a new McLaren I was told. Still can't really understand why??

 

Some people just like to try different things. I usually swap cars every year or two. We are not on this earth for very long so I still have a long list of cars left to try out!

 

Very true!! That being said...I wouldn't mind another 200 bhp and a nice bump up in torque!!