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Check Engine Light On, Emission System Service Required Message

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  #16  
Old 06-02-2011 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Teflonv8v
My light came on due to "lazy" O2 sensors. I plan on buying new ones from Jcwhitney.com. You will need two sensors.
That's funny, really funny, ROFLOL. If you put JC Whitney O2 sensors in your Aston-Martin, you must be a Red Neck.
 
  #17  
Old 06-02-2011 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by dicktahoe
That's funny, really funny, ROFLOL. If you put JC Whitney O2 sensors in your Aston-Martin, you must be a Red Neck.
Im not sure if im following you. They carry NGK oxygen sensors for the Aston Martin. Are you implying that Jcwhitney is an autoparts store located mainly in the mid West USA? Im from Canada so...
 
  #18  
Old 06-02-2011 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Teflonv8v
Im not sure if im following you. They carry NGK oxygen sensors for the Aston Martin. Are you implying that Jcwhitney is an autoparts store located mainly in the mid West USA? Im from Canada so...

We, in the lower 48, usually think of JC Whitney as being a general, somewhat low-end supplier of aftermarket parts and lots of cheap add-on accessories--that's why I thought it was funny.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/factory-fit...wx?filterid=j1
I didn't realize they stocked parts for a High-End Car, such as an Aston-Martin. Also, I'm familiar with NGK as an excellent quality manufacturer, but it looks like JC Whitney supplies NTK sensors, and I know nothing of them.
 
  #19  
Old 06-02-2011 | 12:10 PM
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That's perfect for "you know you're a redneck when..."

Hey I wonder if I can get one of those bolt-on hood scoops for my car. I saw one on a Kia SUV the other day.
 
  #20  
Old 06-02-2011 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by dicktahoe
We, in the lower 48, usually think of JC Whitney as being a general, somewhat low-end supplier of aftermarket parts and lots of cheap add-on accessories--that's why I thought it was funny.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/factory-fit...wx?filterid=j1
I didn't realize they stocked parts for a High-End Car, such as an Aston-Martin. Also, I'm familiar with NGK as an excellent quality manufacturer, but it looks like JC Whitney supplies NTK sensors, and I know nothing of them.
Haha ah yes we have the canadian equivalent called Canadiantire or "crappytire". Well i know JCwhitney carries NTK O2 sensors for the AM costing around $30 bucks each. I bet the stealership will charge triple that. Ntk is Ngk.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/oxygen_sensors/index.asp
 
  #21  
Old 07-12-2012 | 11:39 AM
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guys where do you recommend buying the OBD 2 reader for my 08 Vantage. How much do they run for?
 
  #22  
Old 07-12-2012 | 01:40 PM
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You can get one for 50$ that just reads and clears codes, the unit is smaller and thinner than a smart phone..about half the size of the old razr phone..G2S tools sells them..that was a few years ago though. It was a all black unit..just checked the catalogue and it's changed a bit, it's now black and slate looking..it's 60$ now and the screen is a little bigger, still a nice small unit..part# AUL-AL309 on page 52
 
  #23  
Old 10-25-2012 | 10:15 PM
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Got the Emission Service CEL...
OBD read:
P2195
O2 sensor signal stuck
Lean bank 1 sensor 1
Just erased it. Anything ever to be concerned about?
 
  #24  
Old 10-26-2012 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by plastique999
Got the Emission Service CEL...
OBD read:
P2195
O2 sensor signal stuck
Lean bank 1 sensor 1
Just erased it. Anything ever to be concerned about?
You cleared it long ago..or just recently?
 
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  #25  
Old 10-26-2012 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by irish07
You cleared it long ago..or just recently?
The Emissions warning came on periodically and would self erase. Then for the last week it was on, so I picked up the OBD scanner and read it last night and erased it. Drove it today and it hasn't come on.
But the code may be a bad O2 sensor?
 
  #26  
Old 11-01-2012 | 08:11 AM
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it possibly could be a bad o2 sensor, only real way to tell is to datalog the live data from the o2 sensor(could also swap the bank 1 and bank 2 sensors if fault cares to other bank, it's a faulty sensor). You can use also a multimeter on volts, just it would be hard to remember the average. So the best tool to use besides the Aston AMDS is a scope meter..you would be able to graph the data and see the possible lean or rich condition. if it's stuck lean then either the sensor is faulty or your running "rich" for that bank (yes again..rich not lean). When sensors are stuck lean, means the fuel trim is leaning things out to the max, this then flags a fault for lean mixture at max..so you would have to track out why there is to much fuel(rich mixture) to make the system want to lean the crap out of the mixture...hope this makes sense.
 
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  #27  
Old 11-01-2012 | 08:13 AM
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btw I wouldn't ignore this for you can melt/explode a catalyst with the incorrect mixture, if the car is flagging the same fault..get it diagnosed, its popping up for a reason. I've seen cataysts explode and find deposits all the way back to the MAF sensors..!!
 
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  #28  
Old 01-11-2013 | 11:14 PM
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Sure hope there's someone on here smarter than me. The car runs great, never a hiccup.

On my pre-tune dyno, the open loop A/FR went to the low 10's and stayed there, which is standard for the 4.3V8. The problem is that on the after-tune dyno, the same thing happened. My ECU is fighting the tuned fueling table for some reason.
I bought a bluetooth EML327 OBDII scanner, which is the slickest thing in the world, to do some data logging.
Before logging, though, I performed three of the top four emissions items (thank you Irish07):
- Checked PCV hose for oil - nope, just about dry.
- Gas cap - ensured it's tightened.
- Misfire relearn - did four of those.
- Vacuum leak check - still to do this one, but I bought the starting spray to check it out tomorrow.

So in my "research" of this item, I found the primary O2 sensors, once warm and in closed loop, normally fluctuate at around 2.5Hz from 0.2V-0.8v. The secondary O2 sensors should, in closed loop, be stable at around 0.6v or 0.8v, I'm not sure which. Doesn't quite matter, though, as both my secondaries are doing the voltage fluctuation just like the primaries!

Below are the data logs, one for each O2 sensor. In each pass, I caned it through second gear, then held it pretty steady in 6th around 65mph. I'm new to the Android app Torque, which reads the OBD data stream via bluetooth, so I've yet to discover how to plot all four in the same run. The 4th graph looks different only because I was at idle for longer before starting the run.

Next up is to check for vacuum leaks, and check the STFT/LTFT (short/long term fuel trim). I installed aftermarket filters myself, so there's certainly a possibility I goofed it up and air is getting in downstream of the MAF sensors.

Any suggestions?
 
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Last edited by sonnyd; 01-11-2013 at 11:38 PM. Reason: 'cause I never do anything right the first time
  #29  
Old 01-12-2013 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by sonnyd
Sure hope there's someone on here smarter than me. The car runs great, never a hiccup.

On my pre-tune dyno, the open loop A/FR went to the low 10's and stayed there, which is standard for the 4.3V8. The problem is that on the after-tune dyno, the same thing happened. My ECU is fighting the tuned fueling table for some reason.
I bought a bluetooth EML327 OBDII scanner, which is the slickest thing in the world, to do some data logging.
Before logging, though, I performed three of the top four emissions items (thank you Irish07):
- Checked PCV hose for oil - nope, just about dry.
- Gas cap - ensured it's tightened.
- Misfire relearn - did four of those.
- Vacuum leak check - still to do this one, but I bought the starting spray to check it out tomorrow.

So in my "research" of this item, I found the primary O2 sensors, once warm and in closed loop, normally fluctuate at around 2.5Hz from 0.2V-0.8v. The secondary O2 sensors should, in closed loop, be stable at around 0.6v or 0.8v, I'm not sure which. Doesn't quite matter, though, as both my secondaries are doing the voltage fluctuation just like the primaries!

Below are the data logs, one for each O2 sensor. In each pass, I caned it through second gear, then held it pretty steady in 6th around 65mph. I'm new to the Android app Torque, which reads the OBD data stream via bluetooth, so I've yet to discover how to plot all four in the same run. The 4th graph looks different only because I was at idle for longer before starting the run.

Next up is to check for vacuum leaks, and check the STFT/LTFT (short/long term fuel trim). I installed aftermarket filters myself, so there's certainly a possibility I goofed it up and air is getting in downstream of the MAF sensors.

Any suggestions?
Are those graphs at a steady RPM..if so then you have the downstream sensors mirroring the upstream sensors. The downstream sensors should NEVER mirror the upstream sensors, that is a tell-tale of the catalysts not operating and becoming below threshold. If thoses graphs are right, you need 2 catalysts. At a steady RPM in closed loop with cats nice and hot, downstream will be a steady line near 0.7V-0.8V, and upstream will have a nice wave from 0.2V to 0.9V
 
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Office: (1)250-485-5126
Email: Tuning@VelocityAP.com

www.velocityap.com



  #30  
Old 01-08-2014 | 03:59 PM
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Does anyone have the code number that comes up on OBD reader. Had a flat battery, started a few times but it hasn't reset.
 


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