Does anyone here use the standard Geo settings on their wheels while running 20 inch alloys on a Vantage.

I have had mine set up on a special laser alignment machine to factory spec. This meant putting weights in the car etc as per the instructions given on the machine. The machine considers that standard alloys are used with standard offsets.

However my staggered offset means that my rear wheels profile is slightly out which I am concerned will cause premature wearing to the inside of the tyre. I put a spirit level to the alloys and it confirm this. Hard to explain in words but if you imagine viewing the car from behind the wheels at the bottom are slightly out while the top of the wheels are slight inside the wheel arch.

The front wheels are just the tiniest fraction opposite. They sit with the wheel tops facing out by a tiny amount which again I am concerned will cause premature wearing on the outside of the tyre.

I am tempted to revisist the shop and get them adjust again so they sit flat or am I concerned about nothing. Could I run slightly less pressure i.e 1 psi to compensate for the settings so more 'tyre' actually is in contact with the road. But I think this wont solve it.

If I did go back I essentially will be using my spirit level and my sight to guage the angle of the wheels. Not the best way but since they are aftermarket wheels I dont see any other method.

Has anyone used any other method to set up their wheels?

 

Just did some googling on this question and it seems that if you lower your car then the geo settings are definatly out. This may mean adjusting the settings so that your car does not look like its wheels are sticking out which happens easily with lowered cars and big alloys.

The fact that my staggered alloys offset are different from standard does not impact the geo settings unless my rolling radius is changed significantly. Mine are within 0.8% which are negligible. One thing that has changed significantly is the width of my tyres. By about 10mm or so. This can give the impression of exaggerated angle of the wheels.

For now I will leave the settings as is. The car handles well the cornering is tight and I would not want to change the settings to find that the corners I take at x speed end up kicking off the traction control with the new settings.

Google - dont you just love it

 

When you lower you ride, this affects all adjustement..camber+caster+toe. Mainly the camber and caster impacted..by impacting camber/caster this sets off your toe adjustement (front+rear doesn't matter, all the same idea)

One Vantage, you can adjust rear camber+toe not caster, on the front you can adjuste camber+caster+toe.

When you lower a Vantage with say H&R springs (or something a like in height), you will have a big concern with trying to achieve the correct camber in the rear. You can get close to the max range but that's about it..you can though make them even..think I set them at -3degrees and spec is -1 degree and 5 mins ..So it wil lstill run aggressive in the rear and will still ride on the inside of the tire.

The front can be set good for performance handling and normal life span of the tire, the camber in the front can be set to spec but will set the caster to about 7degrees versus spec at 5degrees..just means the steering will be more heavey(which is a better thing in caster versus going negative and the steering being more free and touchy)

I've tried to think of ways to adjust the rear camber problem, I've yet to find something that is available...real solution would be to make an adjustable lower control arm to deal with this concern...which nobody makes at this moment.

As for you alignment..19"..20"..24"..alignment steeing are always the same specs..the camber will still need to be the same along with caster and camber..yes changing offsets will can change camber which will change the toe...but this does not make a new spec because there 20" wheels...just means you have more adjustments and messing around to achieve the spec adjustments...also most non-dealer alignment places have the specs(not all but some) like for example this one place thought it was 75kg on each front seat cause that's what the machine stated..but it's actually 75kg total accross both front seats..so 35kg on each front seat area and a full tank of fuel is the Aston Martin spec for weight..

If your front tires are leaning the tops out..the camber is still off and can be adjusted to be negative(tops inward)..I'd bring it back..

 

Irish,
I realize this is a 6 year old thread, but if you happen to see it...

I have a 2007 DB9 that came with DBS 20" wheels. It is time to replace the tires and I am looking for advice on alignment setup.

As set up now I get a lot of trammeling and pulling over road crowns so my main concern is reducing this effect.

Are the alignment specs any different for a DBS than a DB9?

While there is a range of adjustments specified, can you advise which end of the adjustment range will enhance tracking most?

TIA, I have really appreciated all your contributions to this forum.

David