Geez, this is your first real car. Well, you went to the head of the class....and you did it right. Family came first, now it's time for some fun. Enjoy.

 

OK, so here's the installation instructions with Pictures (How I did it). There are 5-wires, the blue is the antenna so is just left loose. The two black wires are ground and can be tied together with a crimp-on eye--I then used a small self tapping screw to secure them under the 12v socket where there was already a hole. For the Red Wire (12V) and the White Wire (Control) I crimped on small spade connectors, with sleeves so they would not contact each other. These small spades can be pushed into the the two connection slots that hold the fuse. The Red Wire goes in the slot nearest the right-side fender and the white control wire goes into the other slot. These wires can then be run to the outside and the fuse cover snapped back in place. The little control module can be secured to the top of the fuse cover using Velcro.
Press the remote control "On" to close the valve--normal sound, and press it "OFF" to open the valve for the "Real Aston Sound". When you first turn the ignition key on before starting the car, press the "ON" button, wait about 10 seconds for the valve to close then start the car for more Silent Operation at Start-up. That's it. Enjoy the Aston sound as it was meant to be.

 

Yeah, the black vinyl bras really haven't been used much in the U.S. since the '80s. By "bra" we're talking about protective film. Agree that I'd rather spend $1500 on protective film vs. doing a respray.

The different viewpoints between the UK and the US is interesting. In addition to the different thoughts on protective film, most of the guys in the UK seem to be less enthusiastic about mods.

 

Love it, that's just perfect, thanks also for the pics. I'm going to order that unit tonight.

One thing I'm hoping, and maybe others with the fuse our or tubes tied can chime in here, is that with the exhaust open, I will get more noise on downshifting. I notice when I'm downshifting that it's pretty quiet and the revs are generally less than 4k. Hoping to get some roar as I bring her down through the gears.

 

Any good dealer should have a bodyshop they trust. When I wanted my DBS bonnet fitted and painted I decided to repaint the car from the windscreen forward to get rid of a couple of chips and remove the holes drilled for the license plate. I went to visit the bodyshop and they had 2 x DB5s and 1 DB4GT in there having full repaints after body-off restorations. I decided that I would trust them based on that and I was right to do so, the work is impeccable. The whole front end rather than just the nose cost me £1600, the bonnet (hood?) alone and half the wings was £800. A stone chip repaint would be sub-£500.

I know for a fact that the US has the best car painters in the world, I'd be happy to have my nose done every couple of years

Alfas... another time, I will post some pictures. Perfect car for Goodwood Revival this year

 

Is the 20 Amp fuse still somewhere in the circuit in this installation, or has it been pulled/bypassed leaving the circuit unprotected?

 

Thanks for the heads' up on that Don ... I've pm'd you.

 

Don is right, you really should install a fuse in the Red wire, and you can get an inlie fuse holder at Radio shack, and then put the fuse into that holder. Good catch Don.

 

Or you could solder a fuse in line with red lead right?

 

Regardless of how the fuse (or your switch) is set up, the exhaust flap valves will be open when you start the car. With the fuse in, the valves close around 1,500 rpm and open again around 4K. If the valve was close on engine start, it would be similar to the ol' "banana in the tailpipe" trick which would cause the engine to stall.

 

Or you could solder a fuse in line with red lead right?
This really isn't the right way to do it. The Inline Fuse holder (from Radio Shack) is a little module with wires that lets you easily plug-in a fuse or change it if it fails. Soldering in a couple of wires, (or using a sleeve to crimp the wires in) is also much easier than trying to solder in a fuse. I'll take a picture of it later today when I get it installed.

 

And if the fuse blows you'll have to cut it out of the wire to replace it and solder in a new one (every time). Doesn't really make any sense.

 

Just use a "Bussmann" fuse tap or a "Littlefuse" add-a-circuit plug available at your local auto store. These are made specifically to use the original automotive type fuses and allow you to modify circuits. Both come with a short lead attached.

 

Ya I realized that was a pretty dumb idea shortly after I posted it. Thanks for all the info and guidance on this set up. Very clear, I just need to find a place up here that carries these parts.

 

Here are a few pics I finally got to take and import of the car. One is from the day I brought it home (sunset in the background). The others are from this morning in various locations around Toronto. Thanks to all the forum members for the great info and advice I've received.