Aston Martin DB7, DB9, DBS, Vantage V8, Vanquish, and Classic models

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  #16  
Old 01-10-2012, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by plastique999
The Vantage could be stripped below 3000 lbs and would be a beast on track.
. . . and it would be ruined for everything else. Obviously, that's not the point of a road-going Aston.
 
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Old 01-10-2012, 09:18 AM
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Old 01-10-2012, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Racer_X
. . . and it would be ruined for everything else. Obviously, that's not the point of a road-going Aston.
Agreed. Keep the Aston on the street, get a GT3RS for the track, many of my students when I instruct at a PCA weekend have them and they are superb track machines!!!
 
  #19  
Old 01-10-2012, 12:33 PM
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While stripping out an Aston doesn't make sense, I'd still like to lose some weight (how's that for a new year's resolution?). I'm already contemplating replacing the OE exhaust system (headers, cats, rear box) and I'm hoping that will get rid of around 50 lbs, as well as liberate around 30-40 bhp. I'm wondering what other options there are for significant weight loss, aside from removing the comforts such as A/C, stereo system, seats, etc. Anyone have any ideas?
 
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Old 01-10-2012, 03:05 PM
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^^^ dunno how much weight loss on a street car will help, a few pounds here and there when doing mods like you are contemplating makes sense and is an added collateral benefit to the power mods, but aside from that going in and gutting interiors and whatnot like a lot of guys do on their street cars doesn't really make sense on a street car, if it's going to be a race car or even a weekend trac duty car some of that is fine but on a street car the changes that gutting interiors and such gain you is negligible, truth is you are simply not using a street car in the capacity ever to really need or benefit from slight incremental gain changes, the best gains for a street car can be seen in either adding forced induction or shortening the final drive gear, other than that sizable gains through conventional race car means (i.e. weight reduction) will be nigligible, and guttung stuff out takes away from streetability for any road car, especially on one with such a nice interior like an Aston.
 
  #21  
Old 01-10-2012, 11:37 PM
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small thing but maybe a different design for the metal door armrest. the seat belt has dinged mine up so many times now that i really make a conscious effort when unbuckling.
 
  #22  
Old 01-11-2012, 06:15 AM
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Better flappy paddle gearbox, shifts suck.

Also, no plastic rear-view mirror - when I pay this much $ for a car I don't want to see plastic, anywhere (which is the only plastic piece I've noticed).
 
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Old 01-11-2012, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by kba
Better flappy paddle gearbox, shifts suck.

Also, no plastic rear-view mirror - when I pay this much $ for a car I don't want to see plastic, anywhere (which is the only plastic piece I've noticed).
What about the plastic bits such as the center console and all its buttons, steering column surround, indicator and wiper stacks, window controls, door lock and trunk release, power seat adjustment, lumbar and seat heater switches, etc. There's plenty of plastic; just not as much as on other cars.
 
  #24  
Old 01-11-2012, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by karlfranz
What about the plastic bits such as the center console and all its buttons, steering column surround, indicator and wiper stacks, window controls, door lock and trunk release, power seat adjustment, lumbar and seat heater switches, etc.
He hasn't noticed them before, but surely will now.
 
  #25  
Old 01-11-2012, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by sunir
. . . aside from . . . going in and gutting interiors and whatnot . . . weight reduction . . . will be nigligible
That's what I was thinking. I was just hoping there was something I may have overlooked. I suppose the lightweight seats would make a difference, especially when combined with other weight saving measures like a lighter exhaust system but, aside from not being approved for U.S. use, I hear the seats are extremely expensive as a retrofit. The seats are manufactured by Recaro, but if you bought straight from them, I assume you would not get the Aston styling/branding.
 
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Old 01-11-2012, 10:32 AM
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^^^ I think it all depends on how much you want to spend and how much the power to dollar ratio is for you. In the case of Astons you're looking at approx 10hp for every 2 grand spent, to me that does not represent good value. As for the seats sure you will get some weight savings but not enough to notice a significant gain, unless you are using kevlar or carbon weaved racing shells (like a Recaro Pole Position or HANS seat)...aside from that your hp mods will yeild you some weight savings, the real problem with Astons and weight savings is the things like all the leather, sound deadening, heavy glass, metals...everything that makes an Aston so nice of a road car would have to come out...if I were to build an Aston race car, I would find a damaged or salvaged Vantage body somewhere, and completely strip it down then fix it up and build an integrated roll cage, then fit it with a v12 and use a protrac sequential reverse mounted box ... but then it would just be a race car for track use, one of the pleasures of owning an Aston would be in enjoying it on the road in all it's glory and beauty, a racing brute would not give that sense of grand touring pleasure, but on the track it would be a heck of a car!
 
  #27  
Old 01-11-2012, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by sunir
As for the seats sure you will get some weight savings but not enough to notice a significant gain, unless you are using kevlar or carbon weaved racing shells
Aston's lightweight seats are carbon fiber shells. The weight savings is approx. 40 lbs relative to the standard seats. Add that to the weight savings of the exhaust system, and you're nearly at 100 lbs lost. Not saying that would completely transform the car, but it is a significant weight savings IMO.
 
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  #28  
Old 01-11-2012, 10:52 AM
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^^^ Yes then those seats would make a difference, they are very nice also

At 100 lbs we are talking approx 1/10th of a second ET in the quarter mile as a rule of thumb, so lets say that translates into 3mph on avg at the trap speed. This assumes equal driver and equal tack condtions for testing.

If we are talking about a road course the weight savings translates more effectively, as loss in sprung weight (which you are talking about) does benefit braking and cornering. If you really want to make a bigger difference on the racing circuit try reducing unsprung weight, much lighter wheels & brake rotors, calipers, control arms, heim joints, lighter dampers etc....this will translate much more by way of acceleration, braking, and cornering, moreso than sprung weight.

I've been down this path before it's a slippery slope. Having competed in road racing/touring car and now instructing for many Car clubs from Porsche to Mercedes, Ferrari you name it...I always tell my students (and I've done this also) get yourself a dedicated track car. I am a firm believer that cars are purpose made and excel most in what they were designed to do...sure a few mods here and there and a few weight savings measures will make a little difference like you said and I agree with you those changes will be positive, but a road car will always be a comprimise at the end of the day, no matter what...in the end it's all a very personal thing, it's whatever makes you happy with what you have and how much you are willing to spend on it
 
  #29  
Old 01-11-2012, 11:02 AM
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Agree that it's a slippery slope. I ran into this when I was considering supercharging my V8V. Ultimately, I just bought a V12V instead. There's always the question of modding your current car (potentially ad infinitum) vs. just buying a new one that already is what you want, and it is often a topic for debate.

Anyway, I'm not looking to track my car extensively and I'm not looking to drastically change its nature. I'd just like it to be the best it can be in its current form.
 
  #30  
Old 01-11-2012, 11:14 AM
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Racer_X: Since you've been there, done that (with your V8V) I think that you will agree that its a step by step process. Once you change the cats and the exhaust, (perhaps then even the air filters and ECU)... my guess here is that you will be quite satisfied with the final product.
 


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