Vantage engine stalling !!!???
#16
Does it happen when always full/mid/near empty..
does it happen moslty on days that you just filled up..
when at the pump, do you stock on the first "click" or keep going to get as much as you can in the tank at the best price ..
are there any commons..aka turning a corner, coming to a stop, taking away from a stop..more info you can give me the better
does it happen moslty on days that you just filled up..
when at the pump, do you stock on the first "click" or keep going to get as much as you can in the tank at the best price ..
are there any commons..aka turning a corner, coming to a stop, taking away from a stop..more info you can give me the better
irish07:
It happens at full/mid/near empty. Does not matter how much fuel is in the tank.
It happens any day, at any level of fuel.
I never over fill the tank.
It often happens when crawling to a stop, either in gear or out of gear. It also happens when you take your foot of the throttle from 2500 rpms, you take it out of gear, and then the revs start droping but, it drops below 750 rpms and then the engine dies.
#18
Mine was replaced by the recall program.
#19
irish07:
It happens at full/mid/near empty. Does not matter how much fuel is in the tank.
It happens any day, at any level of fuel.
I never over fill the tank.
It often happens when crawling to a stop, either in gear or out of gear. It also happens when you take your foot of the throttle from 2500 rpms, you take it out of gear, and then the revs start droping but, it drops below 750 rpms and then the engine dies.
It happens at full/mid/near empty. Does not matter how much fuel is in the tank.
It happens any day, at any level of fuel.
I never over fill the tank.
It often happens when crawling to a stop, either in gear or out of gear. It also happens when you take your foot of the throttle from 2500 rpms, you take it out of gear, and then the revs start droping but, it drops below 750 rpms and then the engine dies.
#20
irish07:
It happens at full/mid/near empty. Does not matter how much fuel is in the tank.
It happens any day, at any level of fuel.
I never over fill the tank.
It often happens when crawling to a stop, either in gear or out of gear. It also happens when you take your foot of the throttle from 2500 rpms, you take it out of gear, and then the revs start droping but, it drops below 750 rpms and then the engine dies.
It happens at full/mid/near empty. Does not matter how much fuel is in the tank.
It happens any day, at any level of fuel.
I never over fill the tank.
It often happens when crawling to a stop, either in gear or out of gear. It also happens when you take your foot of the throttle from 2500 rpms, you take it out of gear, and then the revs start droping but, it drops below 750 rpms and then the engine dies.
The misfire factors can only be checked by a dealer...the throttle you can check with the ignition "OFF"..if your handy with tools, remove the intake tube to the throttle and push open the throttle buterfly..if it is dirty clean it out with throttle body cleaner sprayed on a rag then wiped clean(be carefull not to get rag stuck inside throttle or damage butterfly plate)
You can road test now with the cleaned out throttle and see if there was a change, if no change the vehicle will need to be scanned for codes..the MIL will only come on when emissions are at fault..a sensor can fault that is not emissions related and the MIL will not come on in the dash..thus step after will be to have vehicle scanned for further diagnose
#21
I don't thnk it's a fuel cap like some are stating, to the point of stalling, a cap will throw a code for gross evap leak and the MIL would be lit. I've seen a few that stall when turning or driving hard while the tank is mid to full. But if near empty this happens and when coasting to a stop..first would be to scan fro faults..if none I would check that the misfire factors are stored then inspect the throttle..the throttle butterfly can be gummed up not allowing enough clearance for air when near closed to allow engine to idle. Older vehicle had a TPS sensor..newer cars have gone away with a solo TPS sensor and now it's built into the electric throttle..
The misfire factors can only be checked by a dealer...the throttle you can check with the ignition "OFF"..if your handy with tools, remove the intake tube to the throttle and push open the throttle buterfly..if it is dirty clean it out with throttle body cleaner sprayed on a rag then wiped clean(be carefull not to get rag stuck inside throttle or damage butterfly plate)
You can road test now with the cleaned out throttle and see if there was a change, if no change the vehicle will need to be scanned for codes..the MIL will only come on when emissions are at fault..a sensor can fault that is not emissions related and the MIL will not come on in the dash..thus step after will be to have vehicle scanned for further diagnose
The misfire factors can only be checked by a dealer...the throttle you can check with the ignition "OFF"..if your handy with tools, remove the intake tube to the throttle and push open the throttle buterfly..if it is dirty clean it out with throttle body cleaner sprayed on a rag then wiped clean(be carefull not to get rag stuck inside throttle or damage butterfly plate)
You can road test now with the cleaned out throttle and see if there was a change, if no change the vehicle will need to be scanned for codes..the MIL will only come on when emissions are at fault..a sensor can fault that is not emissions related and the MIL will not come on in the dash..thus step after will be to have vehicle scanned for further diagnose
I found my MY09 roadster ran better after a butterfly clean.
Worth doing once a year IMHO
#22
I don't thnk it's a fuel cap like some are stating, to the point of stalling, a cap will throw a code for gross evap leak and the MIL would be lit. I've seen a few that stall when turning or driving hard while the tank is mid to full. But if near empty this happens and when coasting to a stop..first would be to scan fro faults..if none I would check that the misfire factors are stored then inspect the throttle..the throttle butterfly can be gummed up not allowing enough clearance for air when near closed to allow engine to idle. Older vehicle had a TPS sensor..newer cars have gone away with a solo TPS sensor and now it's built into the electric throttle..
The misfire factors can only be checked by a dealer...the throttle you can check with the ignition "OFF"..if your handy with tools, remove the intake tube to the throttle and push open the throttle buterfly..if it is dirty clean it out with throttle body cleaner sprayed on a rag then wiped clean(be carefull not to get rag stuck inside throttle or damage butterfly plate)
You can road test now with the cleaned out throttle and see if there was a change, if no change the vehicle will need to be scanned for codes..the MIL will only come on when emissions are at fault..a sensor can fault that is not emissions related and the MIL will not come on in the dash..thus step after will be to have vehicle scanned for further diagnose
The misfire factors can only be checked by a dealer...the throttle you can check with the ignition "OFF"..if your handy with tools, remove the intake tube to the throttle and push open the throttle buterfly..if it is dirty clean it out with throttle body cleaner sprayed on a rag then wiped clean(be carefull not to get rag stuck inside throttle or damage butterfly plate)
You can road test now with the cleaned out throttle and see if there was a change, if no change the vehicle will need to be scanned for codes..the MIL will only come on when emissions are at fault..a sensor can fault that is not emissions related and the MIL will not come on in the dash..thus step after will be to have vehicle scanned for further diagnose
#23
Check under the hood as your engine may have been swapped out for a 1977 Chrysler 6cyl.
As for Shell gas... No problem here however now that I just stated that I'm sure I'll have stalling problems.
As for Shell gas... No problem here however now that I just stated that I'm sure I'll have stalling problems.
Last edited by AXARUNNER; 03-12-2012 at 02:29 PM. Reason: Grammar
#25
I cleaned the throttle body inlet a few months ago, so I don't think that's it. I'm just waiting until my 10K mile service to drive over to Fort Lauderdale and see if it's thrown any new codes.
#26
Happened to my car twice in the summer of 2010, on the hottest days of the summer with the car parked outside. I've since stopped parking my car outside during the work day, and the problem hasn't come back since.
Is your car dark colored? and I'm guessing those days were quite hot?
Is your car dark colored? and I'm guessing those days were quite hot?
#27
First time was on the way back from the other side of the state, so the car had been driven on the highway for 2 hours or so at 80 - 100 mph (shhhh, don't tell). Second time the car hadn't been driven much at all that day, and stalled later that night. Third time was on the way back from Naples after about a 40 mile drive there, and 3 hours or so sitting outside in 80-degree weather. Car stalled at a stoplight on the way back home.
You can see the color of the car in the pic. The car is normally parked in the garage, but it gets damned hot in there as well since it isn't air conditioned. Interestingly, I never had the problem during the hot summer months of last year.
You can see the color of the car in the pic. The car is normally parked in the garage, but it gets damned hot in there as well since it isn't air conditioned. Interestingly, I never had the problem during the hot summer months of last year.
Last edited by brumma; 03-12-2012 at 05:31 PM. Reason: additional facts