Ok guys, I got my 2 piece rotors from Stuart and after assembling the rotors/hats with the supplied bolts and some Loctite, I installed the fronts tonight. It took about 20 minutes per side wheel off to wheel back on. This is a pretty simple task as the Brembo brakes are designed for quick changes during races. My original rotors and pads were close to shot. The rotors were down to 29.5mm with a huge 1.25mm lip on each side, so they were .5mm out of spec. The pads were getting close to the rivets and the brake wear sensor. The install is pretty straight forward and anyone with a decent array of tools can manage it. No fluid needs to be changed, unless of course it's old or contaminated. You won't need to bleed the brakes either, as long as you don't disconnect any lines or open any of the bleeders. The 2 piece rotors are much lighter than stock, and have a very nice directional internal vein pattern to really help suck cooling air from the center of the rotor through the rotor. Enough talk. Here are some pictures of the fronts. Rears to follow, just ran out of "Artie" time this evening.

1: Loosen the two torx retaining screws holding the rotor to the hub. Easiest to accomplish with a socket and Torx bit of the appropriate size. My bits don't have lables until the larger ones starting at T-25, so I am not sure of the size here. But have someone press the brake pedal to lock the rotor and you can loosen the screws.

2: Remove the brake retaining pins and spring(using a brass hammer or small rubber mallet, as to not scratch or chip the paint on the caliper) Once you remove the retaining pin, the antisqueal spring will jump out, so be sure to hold it when removing the pins. Slide the old pads out and remove the wear sensor from the inboard pad.

3: Using a 10mm Allen head socket and long handled rachet, loosen and remove the 2 caliper retaining bolts that hold the caliper to the hub assembly. Once removed, support the caliper, don't let it hang from it's hydraulic line.

4: Now you need to remove the old rotor. It is probably stuck to the hub pretty well. I spray PB Blaster around the hub protrusion and spin the rotor a few times to get it into the crevices. Let sit for about 10 minutes or so. Then using a dead blow hammer(not to be confused with a rubber mallet!) strike the rotor at it's edge to dislodge the rotor from the hub. I rotate the rotor to do this around it's circumference until it comes loose. It will eventually break free. Don't use a hammer or sledge! Duh!

5: Once you have the old rotor off, now you can reassemble with the new components. Install the rotor, making note of the direction of the arrow! The vanes inside the rotor are designed to draw cool air into the center behind the hat and pull it through the rotor, using centrifugal force to move the cooling air through the rotor. Install the 2 torx head screws into the hub through the rotor hat.

6: Reinstall the brake caliper to the hub and torque to specification.

7: Install the brake pad wear sensor and it's retaining spring into the inboard brake pad and install the pads. You will need to retract the pistons into the calipers most likely, since the new pads and rotor are going to be much thicker than the old worn out stuff. I always just use my old brake pads to do this. I turn the pad perpendicular to the rotor and slide it in with pad surface on the rotor and backing plate against the pistons, trying to catch as much of the two pistons simultaneously to retract them at the same time, otherwise you will be playing ping pong with them.. As you push one in, the other will come back out! Once you get them evenly retracted, slide the new pads in place.

8: Install the retaining pin, lay the anti rattle/squeal spring in place under the retaining pin and compress it to insert the second pad retaining pin in place and you are finished.

9: Ensure the wear sensor wire is retained out of the way and all of the parts are tightened appropriately.

10: Install the wheel and torque them to spec and now go test drive it. After ensuring that everything is correct, look up the correct "bedding in" procedure for your pads. This will ensure maximum performance and good even wear for the parts!


Hope that was somewhat helpful to someone!

 

Here is the wear sensor retaining spring.