going to jump on a 2007 vantage V8, any advices?
#1
going to jump on a 2007 vantage V8, any advices?
hey guys
going to make a move to Vantage V8 07.
12000miles, overall condition is flawless, any advices on clutch, etc?
its a 6 spd auto paddle shift, i wish i can find a manual, but in my budget, there are none, so have to go with the auto.
any differences in handleing?
thanks
going to make a move to Vantage V8 07.
12000miles, overall condition is flawless, any advices on clutch, etc?
its a 6 spd auto paddle shift, i wish i can find a manual, but in my budget, there are none, so have to go with the auto.
any differences in handleing?
thanks
#2
The manual and the auto-manual (Sport Shift) are the same car.
The clutch is the only potential weak spot in the one you're looking at. If you get it, understand and do the clutch "learn" process.
If you can afford an '08, get that. Slight improvements, but some nice little features were added as standard and the prices are usually very close to an '07.
The clutch is the only potential weak spot in the one you're looking at. If you get it, understand and do the clutch "learn" process.
If you can afford an '08, get that. Slight improvements, but some nice little features were added as standard and the prices are usually very close to an '07.
#3
thanks
so you mean to learn how the paddle shift works?
im just not too sure how long will the auto clutch last, some has been saying 40000miles, which is very sufficient for me..(i expect to replace it when it reaches 40000m), just not happy to see it fry when its at let say 20000miles
so you mean to learn how the paddle shift works?
im just not too sure how long will the auto clutch last, some has been saying 40000miles, which is very sufficient for me..(i expect to replace it when it reaches 40000m), just not happy to see it fry when its at let say 20000miles
#4
Knowing how much clutch life is left on the existing unit is difficult, so it's nearly impossible to say how much longer it may go.
The "learn" is an automated process that you have to initiate. There is a thread on this forum which very clearly explains how to do it and I'm confident that it is also described in the Owner's Manual. It allows the transmission to test and set the clutch engagement point so that it engages the clutch correctly though all of the shifts. It is an "every time you drive it" process. Skip it and you will wear out your clutch in much less time than you should have.
The "learn" is an automated process that you have to initiate. There is a thread on this forum which very clearly explains how to do it and I'm confident that it is also described in the Owner's Manual. It allows the transmission to test and set the clutch engagement point so that it engages the clutch correctly though all of the shifts. It is an "every time you drive it" process. Skip it and you will wear out your clutch in much less time than you should have.
#6
Clutch
Sportshift vs Manual - I had an 07 with a manual... the clutch is very heavy for stop and go city driving. Shortly after I got the car, I took the AM performance driving course. They taught me to hold both hands on the wheel and put the left foot always on the dead pedal (instead of on the clutch pedal). Each gear change is intentional leaving the wheel and dead pedal, change gear and return to the wheel and pedal. By the end of the training day, I was conditioned properly. I drove the car 23,000 very hard aggressive miles with no clutch problems, and it's inspection showed the clutch was just fine before I sold it. This included a lot of city driving.
I now have an 09 sportshift. The automatic mode is worthless, however I am enjoying shifting by emulating the gas pedal as if I'm working a manual. Since I've had both, if I bought a new Vantage, if the clutch is less heavy on the new models, I might still go for the manual, but if they did not solve that problem, I'd no doubt go for the sportshift.
I now have an 09 sportshift. The automatic mode is worthless, however I am enjoying shifting by emulating the gas pedal as if I'm working a manual. Since I've had both, if I bought a new Vantage, if the clutch is less heavy on the new models, I might still go for the manual, but if they did not solve that problem, I'd no doubt go for the sportshift.
#7
thanks Prefubia
i have heard from forums the sportshift is slow and not as powerful as the manual.
is that due to the 4.3L engine vs 4.7 or something else?
i have heard from forums the sportshift is slow and not as powerful as the manual.
is that due to the 4.3L engine vs 4.7 or something else?
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#8
No it's just slow when it's an automatic mode almost clunky and I in the way it shifts up a gear so I never use automatic mode however in manual mode it downshifts automatically anyhow very nice
#10
I don't think you'll be disappointed in owning an AM, either manual or sport-shift. The question might be your intended use of your new AM. Daily driver, Tracking, pleasure or ?? Have you test driven the car?
#11
Knowing how much clutch life is left on the existing unit is difficult, so it's nearly impossible to say how much longer it may go.
The "learn" is an automated process that you have to initiate. There is a thread on this forum which very clearly explains how to do it and I'm confident that it is also described in the Owner's Manual. It allows the transmission to test and set the clutch engagement point so that it engages the clutch correctly though all of the shifts. It is an "every time you drive it" process. Skip it and you will wear out your clutch in much less time than you should have.
The "learn" is an automated process that you have to initiate. There is a thread on this forum which very clearly explains how to do it and I'm confident that it is also described in the Owner's Manual. It allows the transmission to test and set the clutch engagement point so that it engages the clutch correctly though all of the shifts. It is an "every time you drive it" process. Skip it and you will wear out your clutch in much less time than you should have.
The learn is auto on MY12.25 cars onwards, before that you need to start the car with ALL other electrics off, keep foot on the brake and wait 15 seconds for a click from the transmission.
You don't need to do it every time, just each day you use it
If it has not been done in a while do it 4-5 times in a row
It basically adjusts the kiss and bite points of the clutch to adjust for wear
It's a myth the ASM boxes wear more than manuals
Both suffer from lack of mechanical sympathy
So don't reverse up inclines, try to avoid creep mode, lift slightly on upchanges and enjoy!
#12
No - only time it will change is down if you are about to stall it
#13
No difference in power or torque from ASM vs Manual exactly the same engines, quicker changes though
#14
It seems to downshift at around 1000 RPM automatically if I don't and is smoother than if I downshift myself so I just let it downshift by itself and it doesn't seem to have any negative affect while in manual mode.
Most of the time I'll do the up and down shifting just to be more involved with the car but occasionally I get lazy, again because it downshifts so smoothly.
Most of the time I'll do the up and down shifting just to be more involved with the car but occasionally I get lazy, again because it downshifts so smoothly.
#15
Not quite right
A badly driven manual car may well have shorter clutch life than a badly driven SS car. However, a well-driven manual car should give longer clutch (and gearbox) life than a well-driven SS car. A good driver with a clutch pedal can modulate clutch slip far more accurately than the computer does.
A badly driven manual car may well have shorter clutch life than a badly driven SS car. However, a well-driven manual car should give longer clutch (and gearbox) life than a well-driven SS car. A good driver with a clutch pedal can modulate clutch slip far more accurately than the computer does.