Who here does their own work on their AM?
#1
Who here does their own work on their AM?
Like most car guys I am always thinking about that next car. I love my 996 Turbo so that's not going anywhere. My next move in two years or so will probably be a super-beater CRV-like thing that can be parked outside, transport the dog, and carry kayaks. In addition I'll get a nice/fun car to daily drive in nice weather. I would leave this car stock, or close to it, while my 911 continues down its path of becoming more hard edged. At the top of my list is a 981 Cayman S, followed by an F82 M4. However, there is always that burning desire I can't quite extinguish for a Vantage. I can silence it for a little while until someone mentions one in conversation. Then I start looking at pictures and ad on Autotrader and start thinking dirty thoughts. What a beautiful car.
So, what's the hang up? I am a DIY guy. I do all work myself whether it's on my cars or on my house and I can't change that. I simply don't trust anyone else to do the work and it helps with having expensive hobbies.
So, for the DIY guys, where are you getting your parts? I've searched around and haven't found the AM equivalent of Pelican Parts or ECS Tuning where I can get any part I need for my Porsches or BMW's quickly, easily, and relatively inexpensively.
Next is diagnostic software. For Porsches I have Durametric. For BMW's I have Bavarian Technic and INPA. I saw AutoEnginuity covers a couple models, I think during the Ford years, but I'm not seeing anything for Vantages. Does anything exist?
So, what's the hang up? I am a DIY guy. I do all work myself whether it's on my cars or on my house and I can't change that. I simply don't trust anyone else to do the work and it helps with having expensive hobbies.
So, for the DIY guys, where are you getting your parts? I've searched around and haven't found the AM equivalent of Pelican Parts or ECS Tuning where I can get any part I need for my Porsches or BMW's quickly, easily, and relatively inexpensively.
Next is diagnostic software. For Porsches I have Durametric. For BMW's I have Bavarian Technic and INPA. I saw AutoEnginuity covers a couple models, I think during the Ford years, but I'm not seeing anything for Vantages. Does anything exist?
#2
Several of us active forum members do our own maintenance. There's a lot of info on DIYs, parts suppliers, etc, in the FAQ sticky. A ton of stuff has been documented on this forum - if it isn't in the FAQ, a search might pop it up for you. Tons of info on here.
#3
Also check out:
https://www.astonmartintechinfo.com/login.aspx
#5
The only thing I'm aware of for diagnostic is AMDS. Before AMDS we used WDS, WDS can be found for LR and Jag then converted to work, but will then limit you to figuring a way to communicate without the inverter doggle(AM uses 2 OBDll cables)..even when figured out, this will limit the use to pre 2006 models. It might still talk to some of the newer modules, but I wouldn't try to many functions otherwise you might cripple a module on the CAN. I still have an old WDS and it comes out 2-3 times a year for early models of DB7.. Other than that, it's useless now and really slow+glitchy
#6
Thanks for the info, guys.
At $12,500 for the AMDS it seems like it would be cheaper to throw parts at a problem than to do a proper diagnosis, at least when owning just one car.
I'm still going to do my best to talk myself out of a Vantage, but I know it will be hard.
At $12,500 for the AMDS it seems like it would be cheaper to throw parts at a problem than to do a proper diagnosis, at least when owning just one car.
I'm still going to do my best to talk myself out of a Vantage, but I know it will be hard.
#7
If you want PCM and body ECU access, then FoCom is the only tool I am aware of. The CAN network is pulled out of the Volvo lineup and it's 'volcano CAN' protocols are different from standard Ford. If you know the RAM address of the data you are interested in, you can easily read it via UDS mode 23 request. I have logged all sorts of info with this, e.g current effective throttle area, cumulative wheel TQ error and the like
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#8
Most tools with enhanced Ford PIDs work.
If you want PCM and body ECU access, then FoCom is the only tool I am aware of. The CAN network is pulled out of the Volvo lineup and it's 'volcano CAN' protocols are different from standard Ford. If you know the RAM address of the data you are interested in, you can easily read it via UDS mode 23 request. I have logged all sorts of info with this, e.g current effective throttle area, cumulative wheel TQ error and the like
If you want PCM and body ECU access, then FoCom is the only tool I am aware of. The CAN network is pulled out of the Volvo lineup and it's 'volcano CAN' protocols are different from standard Ford. If you know the RAM address of the data you are interested in, you can easily read it via UDS mode 23 request. I have logged all sorts of info with this, e.g current effective throttle area, cumulative wheel TQ error and the like
Maybe I should just get a raise so I can move my target date sooner.
#9
Here is my V8V being serviced in my standard garage using only trolley jack and 2 axle stands.Secret is to work slowly and carefully-especially moving the trolley jack around the car.Took me about 6 hours (incl coffee breaks ) to do oil change and fit new air cleaner elements.
Need surprisingly few tools,but would recommend you have a strap wrench as my oil filter cartridge was really tight and it is difficult to grip with your hands.
I also use original AM oil filter cartridge.
I know that FRAM PH9010 is identical size but the tech info on their website gives a by-pass pressure opening at 9 to 15psi.
I think the AM filter is set at around 25psi.
And doing it this way with no fancy hydraulic lift gives you a good workout for free!!
Need surprisingly few tools,but would recommend you have a strap wrench as my oil filter cartridge was really tight and it is difficult to grip with your hands.
I also use original AM oil filter cartridge.
I know that FRAM PH9010 is identical size but the tech info on their website gives a by-pass pressure opening at 9 to 15psi.
I think the AM filter is set at around 25psi.
And doing it this way with no fancy hydraulic lift gives you a good workout for free!!
#10
Here is my V8V being serviced in my standard garage using only trolley jack and 2 axle stands.Secret is to work slowly and carefully-especially moving the trolley jack around the car.Took me about 6 hours (incl coffee breaks ) to do oil change and fit new air cleaner elements.
Need surprisingly few tools,but would recommend you have a strap wrench as my oil filter cartridge was really tight and it is difficult to grip with your hands.
I also use original AM oil filter cartridge.
I know that FRAM PH9010 is identical size but the tech info on their website gives a by-pass pressure opening at 9 to 15psi.
I think the AM filter is set at around 25psi.
And doing it this way with no fancy hydraulic lift gives you a good workout for free!!
Need surprisingly few tools,but would recommend you have a strap wrench as my oil filter cartridge was really tight and it is difficult to grip with your hands.
I also use original AM oil filter cartridge.
I know that FRAM PH9010 is identical size but the tech info on their website gives a by-pass pressure opening at 9 to 15psi.
I think the AM filter is set at around 25psi.
And doing it this way with no fancy hydraulic lift gives you a good workout for free!!
Oil filter wrenches (strap wrenches) definitely help. If you have large-grit sandpaper, that can be used for grip, too (doesn't matter that you're scratching up the oil filter since you're discarding it anyway - just don't use the sandpaper on the new one).
I use OEM oil filters on my V8V. You're saving so much on labor that you might as well pay the extra money for an OEM filter and not risk any issues.
#11
Thanks telum01,
But i am 66 years young and it takes me 2 hours just to do the wheels up to wheels down .
Also the sheet of paper on the front of the car gives me the torques of the various bolts.
You know us old guys cant remember!!!
But i am 66 years young and it takes me 2 hours just to do the wheels up to wheels down .
Also the sheet of paper on the front of the car gives me the torques of the various bolts.
You know us old guys cant remember!!!
#12
Love the idea of sticking the paper in a convenient spot on the car. I'm usually crawling out from under to check specs on a workbench lol
#13
Who here does their own work on their AM?
When I want therapy time I will wrench on the cars, Aston included. I did the oil and filters including the throttle body gaskets in about 2.5 hours, but I have a lift in an industrial toy building, so lots of space to work around and under the car.
As far as wheel lugs, steel gets 100#, and aluminum on the 5 lug P car is 95# on the regular torque wrench. The center lock steel lugs are 200#+, and I should make a chart!! But, I only have one car with center locks and that's another story.
I've also done brake pads and that's about 30 mins per wheel, I once replaced a pad sensor cable as well while doing pads.
Anyway, the Aston is pretty easy to work on, just be careful and it will be fine. The filter wrench helps a lot, and a big zip lock bag to hold the filter so you don't spill oil everywhere! (DB9) not sure about the Vantage..
BTW, I found that using an electric screw gun makes things go very quickly with the zillion torx + screws under the car. I also use it to do the wheel lugs after breaking them loose coming off and to snug them before the final stage tighten sequence with the TQ wrench. Rolling stool really saves the back as well!
As far as wheel lugs, steel gets 100#, and aluminum on the 5 lug P car is 95# on the regular torque wrench. The center lock steel lugs are 200#+, and I should make a chart!! But, I only have one car with center locks and that's another story.
I've also done brake pads and that's about 30 mins per wheel, I once replaced a pad sensor cable as well while doing pads.
Anyway, the Aston is pretty easy to work on, just be careful and it will be fine. The filter wrench helps a lot, and a big zip lock bag to hold the filter so you don't spill oil everywhere! (DB9) not sure about the Vantage..
BTW, I found that using an electric screw gun makes things go very quickly with the zillion torx + screws under the car. I also use it to do the wheel lugs after breaking them loose coming off and to snug them before the final stage tighten sequence with the TQ wrench. Rolling stool really saves the back as well!
#14
I do all my maintenance myself on my DB9 as the nearest main dealer must be 3000 ocean miles away , including the coils .I have my professional workshop with 6 lifts and full equippement.
Also did the coils and front suspension bushes on my French based DB7V ,but this time in a standard garage only with a pit.
Also did the coils and front suspension bushes on my French based DB7V ,but this time in a standard garage only with a pit.
#15
I do all my own work except the annual service which I get the local main dealer to do in order to keep the full service history going.
I buy any parts from the main dealer. Next job will be discs and pads all round which will cost just over £1000 from Aston. Cars done 45000 miles still on the original clutch so no doubt that will need doing at some point in the future. I have the lift below which makes working on the car much easier.
The car is now 9 years old, in the 5 years I've had it the only work I've needed to do is:-
Replaced thermostat (£78)
Waxoyled rear subframe
Remove door mirror and repainted arm
Removed windscreen wiper arm and repainted
Removed and repainted front lower grill
Replaced battery (£100)
Unblocked drain holes in boot lid
Lubricated fuel filler door catch
Replaced an O2 sensor (£100)
Multiple window hard/soft resets
So less than £300 in parts in 5 years excluding annual servicing and tyres. The Aston is a great car to own if you do do your own maintenance. Nothing major tends to go wrong but they do suffer minor problems as above. To have all the above jobs sorted at the dealer would have cost a lot but most cost nothing to do yourself.
I buy any parts from the main dealer. Next job will be discs and pads all round which will cost just over £1000 from Aston. Cars done 45000 miles still on the original clutch so no doubt that will need doing at some point in the future. I have the lift below which makes working on the car much easier.
The car is now 9 years old, in the 5 years I've had it the only work I've needed to do is:-
Replaced thermostat (£78)
Waxoyled rear subframe
Remove door mirror and repainted arm
Removed windscreen wiper arm and repainted
Removed and repainted front lower grill
Replaced battery (£100)
Unblocked drain holes in boot lid
Lubricated fuel filler door catch
Replaced an O2 sensor (£100)
Multiple window hard/soft resets
So less than £300 in parts in 5 years excluding annual servicing and tyres. The Aston is a great car to own if you do do your own maintenance. Nothing major tends to go wrong but they do suffer minor problems as above. To have all the above jobs sorted at the dealer would have cost a lot but most cost nothing to do yourself.