Hi guys, new to DB9 ownership. 2005 DB9 auto LHD US spec. 71k miles.

My car occasionally will not the doors close. By that I mean when I close them, the clasp in the door will not stay in the closed position and grip the corresponding 'loop' within the door shut/jamb.

Is this a product of the outer door handles (not snapping back into their recess smartly) or is it a product of the cold (20 degree) weather.?

I've searched on here but most threads seem to relate to the locks themselves, rather than the latches.

It happened a couple of days ago and I 'cured' it by manually making the latches move backwards and forwards but tonight the drivers door latch wouldn't stay engaged, so I couldn't use the car...

Any help gratefully received.

Thanks guys,

K9

 

Sounds like the latch mechanism is frozen. Often happens here in more northern climates. If you washed the car or there was significant rain that got into the mechanism (usually between the door glass and seal) just before a temperature drop to below freezing, that would cause it. Try a heated indoor parking garage to let it dry out for a couple of hours. Usually does the trick.

 

Hey, thanks for the tip. The plastic part that you can see in the end of the door that actually engages with the door latch 'hoop' (that's in the door jamb) is free moving. Do you mean that the door latch may be frozen 'further in' the door which would leave the plastic striker still free moving?

Thanks, K9

 

OK, ambient temperature today is 43*. It appears as if the door locks are performing correctly. Hopefully that was the issue, as AMCan suggested. Thanks buddy.

I was confused by the fact that the outer striker was still moving. Hopefully this will be the cure. I was ready to get my fan heater out, but all appears good now. Honestly, I feel like a bit of a noob, but having gone through a first year Audi A8 and Range Rover L322, I should probably know better.... ;-)

K9

 

OK, ambient temperature there today is 43*.
That DB9 needs to winter in Florida.

 

I hear ya, but 43* is a veritable heatwave compared to the 20ish degree days we've been having, BUT, I firmly believe that the car should be able to function in at least continental temperatures... I daily drive a 2005 Range Rover, so the '9 ought to be able to function if that can...

Hopefully it was just a newbie panic and all will be well with the doors now....

Thanks guys,

K9

 

In my experience it's the internal mechanism that freezes. The pivot at the door striker moves freely but won't latch. You'd have to remove the door panels to get at it.

 

Thank you. I think that's what happened. We had a 50* day yesterday, and the doors returned to normal.

I guess AM never washed the test mules in Arctic testing....

K9

 

The passenger door on my '07 V8V started having issues closing a couple weeks ago. Went away after opening and closing it several times. Latches might just need to be regreased since the cars have several years under their belts now.

 

Understood, and that's what I thought it was when it first happened last week, that was the passenger door in fact, but lubing the black plastic striker and using the handle a few times 'cured' it then, but not the most recent (half hour post car wash in 20* weather) occasion.

Lesson learned I guess. I'll try 'defrosting' the door with a fan heater etc before I pull anything apart if it happens again and it's cold... I think a re-grease, as you suggest, is a task for a warmer, more-supple-plastic summers day!

Thanks,

K9

 

What mostly happens is ppl lube the latches with a grease..something like white lithium grease. The grease then allows dirt to collect...the dirt then allows an area for moisture to collect and freeze at lower temps..

A lot of manufactures now will refuse a door latch claim if the unit is determined with a unapproved grease..aka lithium grease..

What we use is good old WD40, which is what most brands don't have an issue with...rather than the latch being lubed, it's mainly used to prevent moisture from being present..which is the main principle of WD40("W"ater" D"isplacing up to "40" times)

 

Thanks for that Irish. That was my thinking, and I did actually use WD40, and the 'first time' it occurred it appeared to 'free' the outer black plastic strikers, but it appears that the freezing problem was actually within the door itself, as free moving strikers had no effect on allowing the door to close.

Interestingly, moving the strikers by hand would drop/raise the window and switch on the interior light, but when I closed the door with the striker in the 'open' position, the door would just bounce back out again, as if the mechanism that the striker was attached to wasn't moving when the striker did.

Thanks, K9

 

The latch has a micro switch inside that is triggered by the latch when moved..so this is the reason for the window drop and interior lights when moving that latch, your pushing the micro switch on and off.

There's also another common on DB9 ans Vantage..its a cable from the interior handle to the latch, it kinks and causes tension on the latch mechanism..basically simulates the door pulling from inside..until the cable releases..the latch will stay open ans will not he aloud to latch closed.. Fix is to remove door panel and disconnect the cable from the latch..if fault then goes away, that would mean you've just found the concern