Got a very exciting delivery today.
#31
02-12-2016, 10:34 AM
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Lake Geneva, WI
Posts: 765
Rep Power: 48 
Got a very exciting delivery today.
That had a lot to do with the color decision for my wheels as well. I'm gonna give this Armorall Wheel Protectant a whirl as well.. Seem to hear good things about the stuff.
#32
02-12-2016, 11:19 AM
My fourth hide showed up today 
This thread has some great ideas... I think I'm going to do something similar to these on the Pole Positions I'm going to fit in my V8V:
This thread has some great ideas... I think I'm going to do something similar to these on the Pole Positions I'm going to fit in my V8V:
#33
02-12-2016, 06:12 PM
Speedracer800 --- I haven't been on here for awhile due to work, but wanted to give you and others some solid advice for their wheel protectant and also the liners.
1. For the wheels everyone hates using any type of degreaser due to possible problems with clear coats, plus the expense. However Wheel waxes are a huge pain to use and very time consuming for what you get out of them. Same for the Armour All wheel protectant. That is a waste, it works to a degree, but very expensive for the amount you will use and keep using and if a spot is missed that will collect dirt and then show like an eyesore. Now the solution is to use a type of Glass Coating on the wheels. Same glass coatings such as 22ple or GTechnique or any of them that are used for the paint clear coat. Same clear is used on wheels. If you apply this to the WHOLE wheel (not the tire part) but inside the barrel and the face, your worries will be over. The amount of brake dust collected is fairly minimal but washing them will be only soap and water. The glass coating will last you 2 years or so before needing to apply again. Best thing since sliced bread IMHO. You can touch up all surfaces if you like with a product like CarPro Hydro 2. Super easy and works great.
2. Liners----- I tried this process on my AMG and for over a year till I sold it everything was perfect still. Since you took the liners off , clean them really well both inside and out and they do make Glass coatings for plastic parts and trim, so the liners would likely work also. Makes cleaning easy but that is a trial. I took Plasti Dip in Black on my wheel liners. I applied i guess somewhat thick. Then took their Glass enhancer and added only a little to it. This keeps the wheel wells dark black with no need for any type of Spray shine like people do, and no need to soap or degrease them, just wash off with water or lightly with soap and pad. 1 Year later mine didnt have any rock nicks that I could see, still maintained the black look and made cleaning really easy. Solved my issue for that area of the car. Could always be applied again at any time if you like and does absolutely NO damage to the vehicle or part. IF done at time of original purchase it would likely protect the liner to look like new years later. Same for under belly pans too. Amazing stuff if used properly and sparingly. Dont want to make a 100k car or so look like it just got a Auto Zone makeover.
Just some things from experience to help you.
#34
02-13-2016, 04:36 PM
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Lake Geneva, WI
Posts: 765
Rep Power: 48 Telum that is a great idea for those seats, really some of the best looking ones I have seen.
Speedracer800 --- I haven't been on here for awhile due to work, but wanted to give you and others some solid advice for their wheel protectant and also the liners.
1. For the wheels everyone hates using any type of degreaser due to possible problems with clear coats, plus the expense. However Wheel waxes are a huge pain to use and very time consuming for what you get out of them. Same for the Armour All wheel protectant. That is a waste, it works to a degree, but very expensive for the amount you will use and keep using and if a spot is missed that will collect dirt and then show like an eyesore. Now the solution is to use a type of Glass Coating on the wheels. Same glass coatings such as 22ple or GTechnique or any of them that are used for the paint clear coat. Same clear is used on wheels. If you apply this to the WHOLE wheel (not the tire part) but inside the barrel and the face, your worries will be over. The amount of brake dust collected is fairly minimal but washing them will be only soap and water. The glass coating will last you 2 years or so before needing to apply again. Best thing since sliced bread IMHO. You can touch up all surfaces if you like with a product like CarPro Hydro 2. Super easy and works great.
2. Liners----- I tried this process on my AMG and for over a year till I sold it everything was perfect still. Since you took the liners off , clean them really well both inside and out and they do make Glass coatings for plastic parts and trim, so the liners would likely work also. Makes cleaning easy but that is a trial. I took Plasti Dip in Black on my wheel liners. I applied i guess somewhat thick. Then took their Glass enhancer and added only a little to it. This keeps the wheel wells dark black with no need for any type of Spray shine like people do, and no need to soap or degrease them, just wash off with water or lightly with soap and pad. 1 Year later mine didnt have any rock nicks that I could see, still maintained the black look and made cleaning really easy. Solved my issue for that area of the car. Could always be applied again at any time if you like and does absolutely NO damage to the vehicle or part. IF done at time of original purchase it would likely protect the liner to look like new years later. Same for under belly pans too. Amazing stuff if used properly and sparingly. Dont want to make a 100k car or so look like it just got a Auto Zone makeover.
Just some things from experience to help you.
Speedracer800 --- I haven't been on here for awhile due to work, but wanted to give you and others some solid advice for their wheel protectant and also the liners.
1. For the wheels everyone hates using any type of degreaser due to possible problems with clear coats, plus the expense. However Wheel waxes are a huge pain to use and very time consuming for what you get out of them. Same for the Armour All wheel protectant. That is a waste, it works to a degree, but very expensive for the amount you will use and keep using and if a spot is missed that will collect dirt and then show like an eyesore. Now the solution is to use a type of Glass Coating on the wheels. Same glass coatings such as 22ple or GTechnique or any of them that are used for the paint clear coat. Same clear is used on wheels. If you apply this to the WHOLE wheel (not the tire part) but inside the barrel and the face, your worries will be over. The amount of brake dust collected is fairly minimal but washing them will be only soap and water. The glass coating will last you 2 years or so before needing to apply again. Best thing since sliced bread IMHO. You can touch up all surfaces if you like with a product like CarPro Hydro 2. Super easy and works great.
2. Liners----- I tried this process on my AMG and for over a year till I sold it everything was perfect still. Since you took the liners off , clean them really well both inside and out and they do make Glass coatings for plastic parts and trim, so the liners would likely work also. Makes cleaning easy but that is a trial. I took Plasti Dip in Black on my wheel liners. I applied i guess somewhat thick. Then took their Glass enhancer and added only a little to it. This keeps the wheel wells dark black with no need for any type of Spray shine like people do, and no need to soap or degrease them, just wash off with water or lightly with soap and pad. 1 Year later mine didnt have any rock nicks that I could see, still maintained the black look and made cleaning really easy. Solved my issue for that area of the car. Could always be applied again at any time if you like and does absolutely NO damage to the vehicle or part. IF done at time of original purchase it would likely protect the liner to look like new years later. Same for under belly pans too. Amazing stuff if used properly and sparingly. Dont want to make a 100k car or so look like it just got a Auto Zone makeover.
Just some things from experience to help you.
#35
02-13-2016, 07:54 PM
1. For your paint and other clear coats its is recommended and preferred to make sure you do a paint correction before application due to the semi permanent nature of the products. (you can use polish and take if off for most of the product anytime, so don't get too caught up in the semi permanent descriptions)
2. For plastic parts you need to make sure they are as clean as possible, then apply. They will stay BLACK and look new (mirror trim, window trim, windshield trim, rear end trim) is what I have used it on. (MY suggestion is to maybe try it on a wheel liner, likely would work just fine and provide a barrier just like on other surfaces, however can lend to some expense no one does
thats why I said you can try it)3. Interior wood trim has clear coat on top so can be treated just like exterior paint clear ( same product) and machine polished to remove marks and then highly polish the shine then coat for protection. I do all my cars with that.
4. Plasti-Dip for wheel liners I have done for 4 cars now. 3 of my personal Mercedes AMG's and a friends Maserati front and Bentley front. No one can tell its done unless they touch it. But most people NEVER take the time to remove the liners to clean them and typically just spray tire dressing on them to make them shine. To me that just makes a mess of things. I like clean and typically OEM look. My thought on the Plasti Dip is this------ if your car is new or like new, the wheel liners can show wear even with 10k miles. So to keep them new condition put the Plasti on them and protect them. My goal was to not use anything but Chemical Guys wash soap on all surfaces using MF towels for each panel. For wheels just MF Towel in the same soap. No harsh chemicals or degreasers anywhere on the car was the goal. The liners was the breaking point so thought I would test it out and was pleasantly surprised with how well it looked, the wearing of it, and the ease of keeping clean. Typically just water jet to of hose. I then on my E63 did all the underbelly pans due to scrapes and marks on those. 1 year after it was on a lift and besides one or two marks, all the panels looked newish. Remember you can always remove it like a vinyl wrap so the under parts are protected.
Hope all this helps, I typically use the 22ple line of coatings, but Esoteric has several on their site. Many people use Car pro products, GTechniq and several other for amazing results. I just can't speak to those other brands. Most are very similar and basically all have the same application processes. Every bit worth the expense and effort.
Andrew
#36
02-13-2016, 08:49 PM
Also, if you don't want to mess with a coating at this time for your wheels, try either Car Pro Hydro 2 spray to help with keeping dust off, or AMMO Gelee. Both work great but require applications again after 3-4 washes. Larry has video on the Gelee product if you look it up. Again just some ideas for you. I am following all of what you guys are doing (seats, CF parts, Telums catch cans, wheels etc..) for my next purchase. Deciding between a DB9 or V8 and will start looking within 3-4 months. Will be a garage queen for sure, and keep a AMG for DD.
#37
02-13-2016, 10:05 PM
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Lake Geneva, WI
Posts: 765
Rep Power: 48
Great info! Thanks very much for taking the time to share. These are definitely things far outside my wheel house so I'm taking a lot from this. I've got a pro who comes a couple times a year to do my exterior paint correction / polish etc and he's been trying to talk me into some of these types of products and I've kind of dismissed it as some salesmanship from him but you've inspired me to dig into it more.
BTW.. I'd recommend a DB9 with a 6 speed.. I don't think you'll regret it for a moment. Grab one soon before you can't find one.
BTW.. I'd recommend a DB9 with a 6 speed.. I don't think you'll regret it for a moment. Grab one soon before you can't find one.
#38
02-14-2016, 02:03 PM
Great info! Thanks very much for taking the time to share. These are definitely things far outside my wheel house so I'm taking a lot from this. I've got a pro who comes a couple times a year to do my exterior paint correction / polish etc and he's been trying to talk me into some of these types of products and I've kind of dismissed it as some salesmanship from him but you've inspired me to dig into it more.
BTW.. I'd recommend a DB9 with a 6 speed.. I don't think you'll regret it for a moment. Grab one soon before you can't find one.
BTW.. I'd recommend a DB9 with a 6 speed.. I don't think you'll regret it for a moment. Grab one soon before you can't find one.
1. Make the paint perfect on last time, then coat it. I was researching AMMONYC products last night, Larry came out with a new base coat and thinking on my next car I will try that out, rather than a glass coating on the paint. I have used his products to a great success before so I am sure that will work nicely. Just want to see the gloss differences.
The only MF Towels that ever touch my cars are when washing (about 15 towels per wash, one per panel) and then when taking off polish or carnuba. (I do top my coatings) I dry with a Master Blaster so no MF Towels touch it there.
25% of scratches and swirls happen when you wash the vehicle, and 75% of them come from the drying phase. IF your careful you prevent introducing them and the car stays nice.
#39
02-14-2016, 06:26 PM
Realistically if you do a paint correction and do proper maintenance with washings, you should not have to do another correction inside of a year, or even a light polish. Remember each time a buffer (Dual Action or Rotary) you are removing layers of Clear Coat. In enough time you wont have any left. Also the wearing down of ridge areas and edges, they don't have quite as much. Even a light polish with a non cutting pad will take off some, so be careful. Unless you bought the vehicle, you have no idea what was done before you got it.
1. Make the paint perfect on last time, then coat it. I was researching AMMONYC products last night, Larry came out with a new base coat and thinking on my next car I will try that out, rather than a glass coating on the paint. I have used his products to a great success before so I am sure that will work nicely. Just want to see the gloss differences.
The only MF Towels that ever touch my cars are when washing (about 15 towels per wash, one per panel) and then when taking off polish or carnuba. (I do top my coatings) I dry with a Master Blaster so no MF Towels touch it there.
25% of scratches and swirls happen when you wash the vehicle, and 75% of them come from the drying phase. IF your careful you prevent introducing them and the car stays nice.
1. Make the paint perfect on last time, then coat it. I was researching AMMONYC products last night, Larry came out with a new base coat and thinking on my next car I will try that out, rather than a glass coating on the paint. I have used his products to a great success before so I am sure that will work nicely. Just want to see the gloss differences.
The only MF Towels that ever touch my cars are when washing (about 15 towels per wash, one per panel) and then when taking off polish or carnuba. (I do top my coatings) I dry with a Master Blaster so no MF Towels touch it there.
25% of scratches and swirls happen when you wash the vehicle, and 75% of them come from the drying phase. IF your careful you prevent introducing them and the car stays nice.
With washing I use double buckets with grit guards but only one white mitt that I dip and drag in each bucket after each swipe on the car. This is done after I use a foam cannon twice to remove the dust from previous wash.
I have not polished the car since 2010 and there are very few swirl marks only visible under fluorescent light!
#40
02-14-2016, 08:03 PM
Wow, I thought I was an **** perfectionalist! I too only use the heated/filtered master blaster as I would argue 95% of scratches come from drying.
With washing I use double buckets with grit guards but only one white mitt that I dip and drag in each bucket after each swipe on the car. This is done after I use a foam cannon twice to remove the dust from previous wash.
I have not polished the car since 2010 and there are very few swirl marks only visible under fluorescent light!
With washing I use double buckets with grit guards but only one white mitt that I dip and drag in each bucket after each swipe on the car. This is done after I use a foam cannon twice to remove the dust from previous wash.
I have not polished the car since 2010 and there are very few swirl marks only visible under fluorescent light!
1. Buy a set of Quality MF towels (heck i use the costco yellow pack) and I put about 15 or so in a bucket with CG Mr Pink, then proceed to wash starting from the top. Towels are fairly cheap for good ones, but still throwaway protection)
2. Drying MF Towels is an art believe it or not. ONLY wash them with proper MF detergent liquid (DO NOT USE REG detergent) and only on the hottest setting. Then for the drying ONLY dry them on the lowest setting and do not let them get hot. I usually use lowest setting and shortest time, then repeat when necessary. IF washed on cold the MF wont release the ends to get clean and when drying if they get hot, the ends melt together similar to a fire on a nylon rope end. Yes, i did spend the time to learn that, worthwhile for me, but wish someone could have just told me instead.
a. roof, all windows then rinse off --- 1 towel dunked 2 times
b. trunk area - 1 towel
c. ONLY top of rear quarters, then top part of rear end---- 1 towel
d. each door gets only top half and 1 towel ea
e. only top of front quarters and 1 towel ea
f. Hood is 2 towels (so I don't dunk one)
g. then front bumper is typically 2 towels
h. then i do lower doors moving from top part then to bottom 1 towel ea
i. then rear lower quarters 1 towel ea side
j. then bumper and bottom area.
while keeping the car wet completely I either have done the wheels or do them now, 1 towel ea wheel that is thrown away when done. Then pull into garage and blow dry.
As you said, you haven't polished in a long time, if you wash properly then you don't need too. I have been out of state for some long months with work and had to come up with a system for my apt washings in the parking garage. I came up with the many towels to wash, but use Hydrate by AMMONYC for drying. Its a lubricity thing with a dry MF towel that can still scratch, so use that product to lessen the chance. 4-5 months and works really well.
Most people are no where near this **** with cleaning their car. My friend on here who has a NSX thought he was **** till I took a trip and Paint Corrected his car for him and taught him how to work the process. He went nuts and bought a Rupes polisher and then did his porsche, vintage mustang, and his wife Pheaton. To me its therapy on certain cars. On my E350 I hate it. Did it once, put a coating on it and never touched it again. For me it has to have pleasure and I can't wait till I get my AM. I am headed out of country for a bit with work so when I get back I will find what I want. I am almost as excited for the search as buying it. But please ask whatever detailing questions you have, i can help with most things or advise properly.
Last edited by SheriffDep; 02-14-2016 at 08:08 PM.
#41
02-15-2016, 08:19 AM
Same lighting, same camera position for a before and after on the Plasti Dip on the wheel liners. You can see the difference. Even 6-8 months later it was very noticeable. Yea the black did grey a bit, however not anywhere near to what the plastic liner did.
#42
02-15-2016, 08:35 AM
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Lake Geneva, WI
Posts: 765
Rep Power: 48
I looked at the Plasti dip over the weekend. My concern is that they talk about its "grippy" nature and feel. I realize that you're talking about adding the glossifier product so I'm hoping you can tell me more about that stuff and how much gloss (slick finish for non-sticky) helps provide this. What about a good cleaning of the liners, then using one of the paint sealer products to coat the liners to prevent the road debris from sticking? I can get the Plasti dip (and glossifier) spray locally and I really like this idea (especially since all my liners are currently removed) but I'm just concerned about a "tacky" finish.
#43
02-15-2016, 10:08 AM
I looked at the Plasti dip over the weekend. My concern is that they talk about its "grippy" nature and feel. I realize that you're talking about adding the glossifier product so I'm hoping you can tell me more about that stuff and how much gloss (slick finish for non-sticky) helps provide this. What about a good cleaning of the liners, then using one of the paint sealer products to coat the liners to prevent the road debris from sticking? I can get the Plasti dip (and glossifier) spray locally and I really like this idea (especially since all my liners are currently removed) but I'm just concerned about a "tacky" finish.
Yes the plastic dip has that rubbery feel no doubt. No way around that and the gloss enhancer is the same stuff, just basically a clear. What got me to try it was I wanted a perfectly clean suspension and wheel well. NO one had ideas other then scrub scrub scrub with diff products, then put regular products on it to keep clean and shiny ( I kinda like the matte black, as long as its dark). Goal was to put a car back to Day 1 condition looking, then tire shine (water based only). Other than the Paint correction making the paint better, you cannot get a car better than new materials. So for plastic, either buy new ones, paint them (most old school detailers do this) or find a coating to cover them and make them like new that will last a good long time and not have to constantly nurture them to stay clean. Hence the tryout with PD. I did my front two on the AMG first, then weeks later did the rear. Till I sold it 1 year later it stayed 90% of new with 25k miles and all weather conditions. So for a AM, likely would stay new forever, for the most part. Yes it is a decision that only peeling would reverse but same principle as vinyl wrap or clear bra, your just protecting whats underneath. But I would try the 22ple first after cleaning them really well. I used Acid type spray on mine with a brush first anyway, but any really strong good all purpose will work. Dollar Stores have a cheap product called Lightning or close to it that works wonders. Great for underbelly.
#44
07-06-2024, 09:59 AM
So I've been wanting to do something we my original seats for quite some time now because I have always disliked (hated) the design of the early DB9 seats. I think they really make the car look dated and changing them up along with updating some other interior pieces is on my list of winter projects to tackle. My original plan was to just get some seats from a newer car because I wasn't sure how to change the design of these seats due to the odd shape that I would be stuck with and have to work with. Then I found some photo's online of what a very creative shop did and it inspired me to keep my OE seats and work with them to create the look I'm after.
First order of business was sourcing new leather hides for the job. Like the Alcantara I used for my headliner project last winter, I wanted to definitely use genuine Aston Martin materials. Although the trim shops I have talked to all said "Our stuff is better" or "It's exactly the same", this was just something I was unwilling to compromise on. The leather in an Aston Martin (IMO) is one of those items that make these cars so special. Although I have owned many wonderful cars over the years, nothing has had the aroma and feel of the leather in my DB9..not even close.. I'm preaching to the choir here though I suspect.
So I got in touch with the really nice people at Bridge of Weir in Scotland and today 5 new "Obsidian Black" beautiful leather hides arrived at my door. I was told it would take approximately 1.5 hides to upholster each of the front seats and I wanted to have plenty of material around for when I get carried away (as I often do) and decide to do matching rear seats, door cards etc..
I snipped a little piece off to check for color match and it couldn't be any better. In the picture it may look a little bit off but it's really spot on actually. I think there's a bit of a shine to the existing leather from the conditioner used which is playing tricks on the camera.
Next the seats go off to the trim shop but I'm hoping I could get some opinions from you guys regarding the new "pattern" I'm considering.
I have really always loved what Aston Martin did with diamond pattern contrasting stitching in some cars and wanted to introduce that look into my car. I started with the headliner and I'd like to do a bit more without it becoming too much. Maybe not do this on the seats, but instead on the door cards and center arm rest? I'd love to hear any suggestions you guys might have.. I'm hoping to create something that looks as if it is OE and not at all custom. Thanks for taking a look.
The goods.
Attachment 439163Attachment 439164
The interior as is:
Attachment 439165Attachment 439166
This is the "pattern" I'm considering most. I think it does a great job working with the shape of this seat to give it a much updated and modern look. I'm thinking about not using the Alcantara in the center and also losing the french seams in place of stitching that will more closely resemble the original stitching throughout the rest of the car. Maybe the diamond stitching in the center area of the seat back and/or headrest?? Too much?
Attachment 439167Attachment 439168
I really love the look of this door card done with the diamond pattern, so I'm considering also instead doing this and not on the seats as to not over-do it.
Attachment 439169
First order of business was sourcing new leather hides for the job. Like the Alcantara I used for my headliner project last winter, I wanted to definitely use genuine Aston Martin materials. Although the trim shops I have talked to all said "Our stuff is better" or "It's exactly the same", this was just something I was unwilling to compromise on. The leather in an Aston Martin (IMO) is one of those items that make these cars so special. Although I have owned many wonderful cars over the years, nothing has had the aroma and feel of the leather in my DB9..not even close.. I'm preaching to the choir here though I suspect.
So I got in touch with the really nice people at Bridge of Weir in Scotland and today 5 new "Obsidian Black" beautiful leather hides arrived at my door.
I was told it would take approximately 1.5 hides to upholster each of the front seats and I wanted to have plenty of material around for when I get carried away (as I often do) and decide to do matching rear seats, door cards etc..I snipped a little piece off to check for color match and it couldn't be any better. In the picture it may look a little bit off but it's really spot on actually. I think there's a bit of a shine to the existing leather from the conditioner used which is playing tricks on the camera.
Next the seats go off to the trim shop but I'm hoping I could get some opinions from you guys regarding the new "pattern" I'm considering.
I have really always loved what Aston Martin did with diamond pattern contrasting stitching in some cars and wanted to introduce that look into my car. I started with the headliner and I'd like to do a bit more without it becoming too much. Maybe not do this on the seats, but instead on the door cards and center arm rest? I'd love to hear any suggestions you guys might have.. I'm hoping to create something that looks as if it is OE and not at all custom. Thanks for taking a look.
The goods.
Attachment 439163Attachment 439164
The interior as is:
Attachment 439165Attachment 439166
This is the "pattern" I'm considering most. I think it does a great job working with the shape of this seat to give it a much updated and modern look. I'm thinking about not using the Alcantara in the center and also losing the french seams in place of stitching that will more closely resemble the original stitching throughout the rest of the car. Maybe the diamond stitching in the center area of the seat back and/or headrest?? Too much?
Attachment 439167Attachment 439168
I really love the look of this door card done with the diamond pattern, so I'm considering also instead doing this and not on the seats as to not over-do it.
Attachment 439169
the alcantara inserts look amazing in those seats!
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