Electrical Gremlins!
#1
Electrical Gremlins!
My '97 DB7 I just bought arrived yesterday. While beautiful, she has a few issues to sort through.
Considering this is the cheapest A-M in the country, I've expected to do some sorting, though the seller claims it was all working great before he shipped it to me... Fortunately, the body / paint / engine / trans all seem to be fine. Having owned British cars since I was 15, I own a multimeter and know how to use it!
I might as well just list the issues, and any help / advice / etc is appreciated. I'm in the Seattle Washington region if that matters... Battery is fully charged. Fuses appear good.
I'm not a mechanic, but am comfortable working on cars. My home shop is equipped with a lift, etc...
Thanks, I'm looking forward to sorting it all out and enjoying this gorgeous car...
Considering this is the cheapest A-M in the country, I've expected to do some sorting, though the seller claims it was all working great before he shipped it to me... Fortunately, the body / paint / engine / trans all seem to be fine. Having owned British cars since I was 15, I own a multimeter and know how to use it!
I might as well just list the issues, and any help / advice / etc is appreciated. I'm in the Seattle Washington region if that matters... Battery is fully charged. Fuses appear good.
- Central locking inop
- Headlights always on when engine running, switch does not turn them off
- High beams will not turn on when pushing stalk forward. They will flash when stalk is pulled.
- Taillights inop
- Antenna inop
- License plate lights inop
- Dash / Instrument lights inop
- Gear shift indicator light inop (Automatic trans)
- Passenger (right side) exterior door handle inop
I'm not a mechanic, but am comfortable working on cars. My home shop is equipped with a lift, etc...
Thanks, I'm looking forward to sorting it all out and enjoying this gorgeous car...
#2
Maybe try a different battery just to try it. Possibly shutting all power off, and then back on might loosen some of those Gremlins.
But, Mulitimeter, start finding where the power loos to those items are. ie.....See if the tail light connector plug that goes to the boot lid is getting any power. If not, then your issue is before that etc.... I am sure you can figure that out from there for most of those items. Might be a central fuse ground issue somewhere. But, AM Bits might be your best friend for awhile while you sort the vehicle out.
The gloss levels seem like they could come up alot on that paint. If you are interested in getting the proper equipment and doing the work yourself to correct that issue let me know. I can walk you through it.
But, Mulitimeter, start finding where the power loos to those items are. ie.....See if the tail light connector plug that goes to the boot lid is getting any power. If not, then your issue is before that etc.... I am sure you can figure that out from there for most of those items. Might be a central fuse ground issue somewhere. But, AM Bits might be your best friend for awhile while you sort the vehicle out.
The gloss levels seem like they could come up alot on that paint. If you are interested in getting the proper equipment and doing the work yourself to correct that issue let me know. I can walk you through it.
#3
You won't get much help here, so don't waste your time. Post in the DB7 section of the AMOC forum where there is lots of 7 help, both regular and Vantage (many problems common to both variants). Right now there is a lengthy thread on exterior door handles not working...
#5
was the battery dead when it arrived. try dissconnecting bat and get it checked to see if its good
a failing bat will do all crazy things to astons. if the car was from a state where drl's are required the
headlights have to be programmed buy A.M. (always on) ..
a failing bat will do all crazy things to astons. if the car was from a state where drl's are required the
headlights have to be programmed buy A.M. (always on) ..
#7
Thanks! It's so fun chasing electrical bugs...
I will load test the battery today. Good point...
Would love a copy of the OBD test manual, Matt.
Took my first real drive in it yesterday. Excellent driving experience. Very surefooted. Not a ton of power (no surprise...) Quiet. Very smooth & comfy. Surprisingly low heat output from the heater... Outside temp around 45F. Engine temp stayed quite low, maybe it doesn't have a thermostat installed?
In all, a lot of fun...
Ed
I will load test the battery today. Good point...
Would love a copy of the OBD test manual, Matt.
Took my first real drive in it yesterday. Excellent driving experience. Very surefooted. Not a ton of power (no surprise...) Quiet. Very smooth & comfy. Surprisingly low heat output from the heater... Outside temp around 45F. Engine temp stayed quite low, maybe it doesn't have a thermostat installed?
In all, a lot of fun...
Ed
Trending Topics
#8
With all lights that are not wokring being related to the light switch, i'd be inclined to want the swit h diagnosed.
The lights on at all times are Canadian thing for DRL's, is this car Canadian or a USA spec that's been plated in Canada? If so then the lights have been wired or configured to be on at all times while engine is running..could very well just be the wiring of lights causing all your issues.
For high beams, usually even if in Canadian spec with lights on at all times, you must have the light switch to ON position so that the high beams can stay on, otherwise the flash to pass is the only thing that will work. (even newer models are like this)
As for the pass handle, it's mechanical so you would need to open up the door panel and see whats going on, is it just the handle linkage or the actual latch that's at fault?
The lights on at all times are Canadian thing for DRL's, is this car Canadian or a USA spec that's been plated in Canada? If so then the lights have been wired or configured to be on at all times while engine is running..could very well just be the wiring of lights causing all your issues.
For high beams, usually even if in Canadian spec with lights on at all times, you must have the light switch to ON position so that the high beams can stay on, otherwise the flash to pass is the only thing that will work. (even newer models are like this)
As for the pass handle, it's mechanical so you would need to open up the door panel and see whats going on, is it just the handle linkage or the actual latch that's at fault?
__________________
__________________
Technical Director
Christopher Edgett
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
214 Maple Ave.
Oliver, B.C
Canada V0H 1T9
Office: (1)250-485-5126
Email: Tuning@VelocityAP.com
www.velocityap.com
__________________
Technical Director
Christopher Edgett
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
214 Maple Ave.
Oliver, B.C
Canada V0H 1T9
Office: (1)250-485-5126
Email: Tuning@VelocityAP.com
www.velocityap.com
#9
Thanks, Christopher.
This is a U.S. car since new. The headlamps are always on, regardless of switch position. The taillights & license plate lights turn on and off normally through the switch. High beams only work via pull, flash to pass. Meaning, with headlamp switch ON, the high beams still do not come on.
I will open up the switch and inspect. Hoping it's a Jag part...
Does VelocityAP have any exhaust system upgrades for this I6 car? The sound is a little feeble... Also, how about opening up the intake some? It looks quite restrictive.
Ed
This is a U.S. car since new. The headlamps are always on, regardless of switch position. The taillights & license plate lights turn on and off normally through the switch. High beams only work via pull, flash to pass. Meaning, with headlamp switch ON, the high beams still do not come on.
I will open up the switch and inspect. Hoping it's a Jag part...
Does VelocityAP have any exhaust system upgrades for this I6 car? The sound is a little feeble... Also, how about opening up the intake some? It looks quite restrictive.
Ed
#10
Thanks, Christopher.
This is a U.S. car since new. The headlamps are always on, regardless of switch position. The taillights & license plate lights turn on and off normally through the switch. High beams only work via pull, flash to pass. Meaning, with headlamp switch ON, the high beams still do not come on.
I will open up the switch and inspect. Hoping it's a Jag part...
Does VelocityAP have any exhaust system upgrades for this I6 car? The sound is a little feeble... Also, how about opening up the intake some? It looks quite restrictive.
Ed
This is a U.S. car since new. The headlamps are always on, regardless of switch position. The taillights & license plate lights turn on and off normally through the switch. High beams only work via pull, flash to pass. Meaning, with headlamp switch ON, the high beams still do not come on.
I will open up the switch and inspect. Hoping it's a Jag part...
Does VelocityAP have any exhaust system upgrades for this I6 car? The sound is a little feeble... Also, how about opening up the intake some? It looks quite restrictive.
Ed
Your I6 is supercharged and stock filter is a K&N from factory, not much to the intake that I'd see restrictive? Think the funds would be better invested in a crank or sc pulley versus intake. Unfortunately, we don't have anything for the I6 at present time.
__________________
__________________
Technical Director
Christopher Edgett
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
214 Maple Ave.
Oliver, B.C
Canada V0H 1T9
Office: (1)250-485-5126
Email: Tuning@VelocityAP.com
www.velocityap.com
__________________
Technical Director
Christopher Edgett
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
214 Maple Ave.
Oliver, B.C
Canada V0H 1T9
Office: (1)250-485-5126
Email: Tuning@VelocityAP.com
www.velocityap.com
#12
Maybe unplug the connector for the turn signal stalk and using the wiring diagram jumper the pin for the highbeam switch to see if the highbeams come on. That way you know whether it's in the stalk or somewhere else. Gotta get creative sometimes....
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post