Hi, I'm new to posting on this forum but a veteran on many different forums. I've already learned a ton here and happy now to start contributing.

I have an 06 DB9 with around 30k miles. I've attacked a couple big problems this last week while in corona virus isolation (which I haven't minded at all). I had a misfiring problem so did a complete coil and spark plug change (pcv system too) by following aston1936's fantastic instructions. I also replaced both front motor mounts as they had failed with all the fluid having leaked out (this required removing the front subframe). Finally I cleaned up a very messy lower engine that clearly has an oil leak. I changed the oil/filter and added dye. It took less than five minutes to see the leaks, and after 10 minutes there were more, adding up to actual drips. The primary source is the sump gasket. There are leaks in several places around the perimeter. I also can spot some leaks up the sides of the timing cover. Damn.

So I'm at a decision point now to continue on this journey and take off the sump and timing cover myself and change the seals, or surrender and have my dealer do it. I know the price with them will be around $6k. Yikes. The seals will cost me ~$250 if I do it myself (assuming I don't need to take the valve covers off and replace those seals too.) I've searched and searched on this project and found lots of tips but no definitive step-by-step procedure. Am I missing that somewhere? If I go forward I will do my best to document it all.

I'll only do it myself if I can leave the engine in the car. Of course step one in the shop manual is "remove engine."

I see a couple initial problems that I need advice on before I decide go/no-go.

1. I can easily remove the subframe again as I have not yet reinstalled the suspension components that hang off it. So 12 bolts from now and the subframe is off. My question is if the oil sump can be removed with the header/exhaust pipes still in place (which sure looks like an engine-out job)? The sump has these sort of "wings" at the aft end where it meets the bell housing. It looks like these wings won't let the sump pass down between the header pipes. If tilted at an angle and slid forward just maybe it will drop out, but I can't tell for sure. Maybe it can be finagled? Anybody know?

2. Getting the power steering pump bolts out also looks near impossible. That said I'd have to remove the water pump first, which looks straight forward, and maybe then I can to the p/s pump easily. Any experience?

If I proceed stay tuned - I'll try to post my progress every day.

Thanks, JR.

 

I am assuming you are going to support the motor from above once you unbolt the subframe,,,

I have seperated the body from the subframe (see my thread), and in fact am getting ready to do it again today so I can tighten up the tolerances in the main bearings. If you have a lift it is straightforward with only a few YGTBSM moments. The accessories all come off pretty easily, but getting the front cover off will be interesting in the car.

Good luck and keep us posted!

 

Thanks for your response. I have been following your thread with great interest. Very ambitious and impressive!

Actually I supported the engine from below when I did the job to replace the engine mounts. Like this:


Supporting the engine from below. There are filler pieces of wood between the wood block and the sump where needed so the weight is carried evenly.


Woodworking clamps on the four corners of the subframe and hooked up over the upper frame allowed me to lower the subframe slowly and in control

For the sump job I'll do the same and remove the subframe, then put posts under each motor mount to the floor, then remove the jack from the sump. So the engine will sit on its own mounts, but with posts going straight to the floor. This will allow me to unbolt and remove the sump. After that I'll remove the timing cover.

It's taken several hours but I just got the crankshaft damper pulley off. It fought me all the way as the space is so tight and the thing is on there so tight, but after a few different tries/techniques I found a very easy way to do it. If I had to do it again it would be less than an hour. I'll post that later.

My big question now is once the timing cover is unbolted will it drop easily enough straight down and out, or am I going to have clearance problems against the cross frame just in front of the engine. That's going to be interesting.