At my recent 40K service the mechanic recommended new rotors and pads. After a bit of work to track everything down I believe I now have all the parts I need (including replacement bolts for the calipers, which apparently need to be changed every time the calipers are removed). I plan to take care of everything except the fluid flush myself as I've done this kind of work on a previous car with Brembos. Any advice on anything specific to be aware of? There are guidelines in the FAQ on pad replacement (pretty straightforward) but there is a total of one video on Youtube covering V8V rotor replacement. I can't find any details for example about getting the parking brake rotors on and off.

Many thanks in advance.
BTW in case anyone is interested I'm going with Brembo rotors all around and Hawk HPS pads (something I've had good luck with before).

 

YouTube is your friend...i have a big flat screen in my garage... Aston1936 video is good

one of the simplest brake jobs I've done... if you have a lift, even easier

BTW i also had dealer flush brake fluid (did the ASM clutch line flush also) $200 for no mess and hassle...
i used porterfield pads... no bedding, no dust, no squeals.

 

Like I said in the original post, only one video on YouTube covering rotor replacement on a V8V, and the mechanic seems to take a long time getting one of the calipers off. Aston1936 only has pad replacement videos.

 

Been there-done that...takes a lot of force to remove all the rotors-more effort than you'd believe...
The link below may be of some assistance to you for the rears.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...akes-help.html
There are alternates for the parking brake pads-because of the availability at the local auto parts store, I used the Ferodo pads seen below-again it was several years ago and I don't know if they may still be available.

 

Thanks. In the 'how to replace Brembo rotors' videos I've been watching I notice they tend to bang on the rotors with a hammer a few times to free them up. I tend to use the parking brake rarely so hopefully it's in good shape but I don't like that reference to 'special tool'. Maybe I'll just check the thickness of the rear rotors and leave them alone for now if they're in tolerance. Any advice on what needs locktite?

 

My personal preference is to use an anti-sieze compound on the items referenced in the service manual-pins, slides etc.
I have never used a locktite compound on the fasteners associated with the calipers or other brake fasteners-and I, god forbid, reuse the original fasteners...
Use the designated torque values for the fasteners involved. Reference the torque values stated in the service manual...
YMMV

 

Porterfield e-brake pads from RedPants completely cured my brake squeaks from the rear. Worth doing while you're in there.

If you split the e-brake calipers open it helps get the rotor off and exposes the wind-back mechanism.

 

Pretty much all rotors I've seen have bolt holes in them to allow you to thread in a couple bolts to pop off the rotor when they get rusted on. Squirt in a little PB blaster then thread in the bolts. I haven't done the brakes on the Aston yet to see if they are there or not.

I've always just used a pair of needle nose pliers to screw back in a piston in a caliper. The question here would be if there's enough space to do that. The pictures from the other thread make it look like there may not be. It doesn't take a lot of force to turn the piston back in so a couple long bolts in the holes may work.

 

the issue is there's nothing real special about a brake job on an Aston Martin.. there are some videos on caliper removal... rotors unbolt...etc. aftermarket parts

good luck... great way to save lots of money rather than the dealer.

 

Aston1936 YouTube videos have been outstanding. My recommendation (having just done mine) is:
1) it's very easy and quick to do.
2) Porterfield R4-S pads are the way to go. Great pads with very little brake dust. OEM pads have a lot of brake dust. I purchased mine directly from Porterfield.
3) Bleed the brake fluid while you're at it. Motul RBF 600 brake fluid (Amazon) seems to be a favorite. Very high boiling point. I used a Capri Tools Vacuum brake bleeder (Amazon) instead of a second person pumping the brakes. Makes it very easy. Get two bottles at least. One was not enough. See Aston1936's blog or YouTube video on this. There are two bleed valves per caliper. AM says to bleed the inboard caliper first, then the outboard.
4) Use the recommendations by Porterfield for bedding the pads.
5) There is a torque sequence recommended by AM for putting the tires back on. (80 ft-lbs first and then 100 ft-lbs)

 

Thanks for all the advice. As noted, it's mostly a pretty straightforward job. The only tricky part was removing the rotors - which isn't an Aston-specific thing per se, but the blow torch did have to make a brief appearance. Again, in case you didn't catch it in my earlier thread, the 'usual suspects' on Youtube don't cover Aston Martin rear rotor replacement, so aren't very helpful unless you are a newcomer to this kind of thing.

In the end my buddy and I decided not to even try removing the rear parking brake calipers to allow the rear rotors to be removed. Without the 'special tool' to hand we were concerned that the calipers may not have come back together satisfactorily after having been separated. The rear pads were however replaced.

Braking is now significantly better with the new pads, which I'd estimate at the front are about 3X thicker than the ones they replaced. Some minor brake squeal remains after about 70 miles or so but is fading. I went with the Hawk HPS pads as I've had a good experience with them before - low noise (they have beveled edges), good bite and low dust. For bonus points they also come with shims. My existing brake fluid was very clean, but I replaced it anyway.

 

Do you really experience no dust? My Porterfields are definitely lower dust than stock, but there's still plenty of dust.

 

Which is that no bedding is required

Which car is this spec for? My manual says 60 then 133 lb-ft.

 

80/100 is for DB9.

 

A good demonstration of making sure to specify the application for the spec described.